• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.475-487
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 1999

The college students selected by random sampling were classified into several groups by their impulse buying pattern and the psychological characteristics that cause them. Their life styles, fashion leadership, self-confidence and self-image in clothing were the subjects of comparative analysis. The results of this research can be summarized as follows. 1. The college women students could be classified into several groups by their impulse buying orientations. 2. The student life styles were different by their shopping orientations. The high shopping involved shopping type and the leisure pursuit shopping type attached great importance to material life and modern life style. The economic shopping type took the intellectual self-image seriously, and the low shopping involved type thought much of the traditional life style. 3. The high shopping involved type and the leisure pursuit shopping type were more impulse buying oriented. They showed the tendencies to the fashion innovativeness and fashion opinion leadership. But the economic shopping involved shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type showed quite different tendencies. The high shopping involved shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type were contrast in their self-confidence in shopping. The former showed the highest self-confidence and the latter showed the lowest self-confidence. 4. The high shopping involved shopping type were more extroversive, dominant, sensitive and pioneering. These psychological characteristics were supposed to contribute to their impulse buying. 5. The high shopping involved shopping type and the leisure pursuit shopping type perceived themselves as more sophisticated, modern, creative and sociable. They thought they had diverse life styles. These two groups were more impulse buying oriented, and their self-images were different from economic shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.573-590
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop contemporary Qipao design that emphasized creative feminine beauty with a unique sense beyond the concept of traditional Qipao design. This would be achieved using the expressive technique of human liberation from the oppression of the unconscious world a supported by surrealism. Using existing literature and previous research, surrealist expression technique used in fashion were investigated and analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the possibility of new and original design beyond existing surrealistic Qipao design was demonstrated through various realistic surrealism expression techniques, such as dépaysement, objet, and trompe-l'œil techniques. This occurred by exploring various unconscious world out of fixed ideas and through expression techniques of surrealistic fashion such as imagery of body parts, metaphorical expression of objects, and position deformation and illusion. Second, Qipao design that combined objet and attempted ordinary escape by combining isolated body parts (such as hands, eyes, and lips) within the composition combine with surrealistic expression enabled various and fun surrealistic fashion designs to emerge. Third, the metaphor of surreal lips and eyes (mainly used in works of this study) presented a unique and extraordinary combination of images in accessories and partial design that used the dépaysement technique. Thus, it was possible to expand surrealistic expression by including LED wire.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.1-11
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the application of raditional elements in Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam's Fashion Design. The methods of research, the references to the precedents of prior research, fashion related journals, articles, and websites of designers were examined to analyze how each designer reinterpreted the respective homeland's traditions. The designs of Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam studied were from the 2002-03 F/W to the 2012 S/S collections. The results are as follow. First, both designers use traditional marks when reinterpreting the traditional clothes of Korea and China. In the case of Lie Sang bong, traditional Korean marks were linked to the western structure. For Vivienne Tam, designs which revived realistic marks identically were displayed. Second, in terms of the modern reinterpretation of the traditional clothes shapes, there were a number of cases in which the silhouettes of their respective country's traditional clothes were mainly brought into their arts. Lie Sang bong was influenced by the 'line' of traditional Korean design. In addition, the atmosphere of the traditional clothes helped to reanalyze the traditional clothes' figure. In Vivienne Tam's designs, unique Chinese images were produced by, keeping the original form of the Chinese dress. Third, in the use of the traditional ornament techniques, Lie Sang bong partially introduced and applied traditional ornament techniques while Vivienne Tam largely decorated the traditional. Chinese ornaments while directly utilizing the structuring designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.73-84
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• 2011

Upholstery style is the form which bulges a shape by putting fillings in the support and covering them with patterned textile or pile fabric. Modern upholstery style was combined with the various socio-cultural products and artistic styles and expressed in interior furniture and costumes of historical time periods. The style first originated when people built houses for settlement and made furniture to decorate its interior. The characteristics of upholstery style came to be prominent in the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo times with the development of science and textile industry. The interior furniture represented the ages of the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo and were made with similar images of the architectural style from those different time periods. Textiles, tapestry, velvet, corduroy, damask, brocade, and the most frequently used velvet are elements that make up the structural and figurative features of the architectural style. The upholstery style of furniture also shows the forms of clothing that represents each of the different periods. This style still continues to be used today. In modern day fashion, the figurative characteristics of the upholstery style that derives from interior furniture and clothing from the different time periods are bulkiness, asymmetry and exoticism. Such figurative characteristics have evolved through the combination of diverse genres but it still maintains similar designs and forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2012

In 2009, two national universities were integrated into one and the following was newly named Gangneung- Wonju National University. Therefore, this university requires consolidation and promotion of UI(University Identity) as a college brand in order to secure and enhance its competitiveness. The purpose of this study was to design and develop campus-wear, ultimately, it can be used as a part of the Gangeung-Wonju University's UIP policy. A qualitative approach of searching==incorporating books, dissertations, and web-based information==was taken to investigate theoretical backgrounds. The campus-wears were collected from the selected universities in Korea and abroad for the distinct design development. The result of the research are as follows. The concept for the design planning was "wit, exciting & challenge for campus life". The developed UI had focused on expressing positive images of the University. Six items were chosen for the campus-wear design. The goal was to demonstrate practicality and fashion trend. The color arrangement primarily focused on the University's official color and pursued a bright, breeze look. The detailed techniques used for the actual production were printing, embroidery, and accessories. The UI products may not only instill the members of the university with the spirit and pride by strengthening the sense of belonging, but also create a synergistic effect in education by boosting the university promotion and by newly establishing standing as the integrated university.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.101-114
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• 2019

This study aims to analyze the color characteristics of Japanese cultural product shops and differences in business categories by analyzing the colors of the Gion Shopping Street in Kyoto, Japan. Through the study, the traditional colors are reflected not only in the domestic cultural products but also the interior colors of shops. That way, visitors can be influenced naturally and gain indirect cultural experience to form a good image of Korea, which can help to improve sales of cultural products. The analysis was conducted through the colors of Munsell to determine the overall, dominant, assort, and accent colors based on categories of goods to identify the characteristics of the traditional Japanese cultural product shop. Among the 85 shops that were surveyed, YR and W frequently appeared as chromatic and neutral colors. Dominant was W, and assort was YR. B, P and Y also showed up. In color combination analysis, 35.3% was contrasted. For the hue, 32.9% was dark. Based on goods categories, confectionary shops used YR mainly, while souvenir and fashion accessory shops used W the most. Restaurants mostly had W as thedominant and YR for assorting. Cafes and art shops used Bk the most. The interior colors of cultural products shops should maintain the atmosphere of tradition and convey images of the products well. Based on this research, Korea also needs to actively reflect the interior designs of cultural product shops using traditional colors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.68-85
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the New-Hanbok styling of online shopping mall, and to also suggest a solution to the problems of the New-Hanbok styling and develop a progressive plan. The research method was to search six keywords related to 'Hanbok' in the search portal 'Naver' and select 14 Hanbok brand companies. A total of 412 pictures of products for the model used on main screen were analyzed among 14 companies. The results of analyzing the New-Hanbok styling are as follows. First, the New-Hanbok styling showed the unstructured characteristics like unconventional arrangement after getting out of the fixed form of traditional Hanbok styling elements. Secondly, diverse images were represented as the hairstyle and makeup were highlighted as the elements of New-Hanbok styling. Thirdly, the new, fresh, trendy, and fashionable New-Hanbok styling was shown through the mix-and-match of traditional Korean-style accessories and fashion jewelries. However, regarding the New-Hanbok styling shown in online shopping mall, the overlapped items were especially found while the difference in material, pattern, and color required to overcome this problem was insufficient. It was lacking in the styling consistency for the establishment brand image while the awareness of the importance of accessory styling was insufficient. The brand competitiveness of the New-Hanbok could be secured by raising awareness on differentiation, consistency, and importance through the styling elements such as item composition, material, pattern, color, hairstyle, makeup, and accessory of brand.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.23-42
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the Chinese Miao people's Batik patterns and provide data in the field of fashion design for the utilization of the traditional patterns. This study investigated and analyzed the regional characteristics of Batik dyeing, which was listed on China's national intangible cultural heritage list; Danzhai, Anshun, Huangping, and Gonghyeon. The expressive characteristics were classified into four categories: symbolism, abstraction, decorativeness, and playfulness. The results are as follows. First, symbolism can be classified into the origins of the Miao, symbols of faith, history of migration, and the symbols of status with Batik patterns from different regions, seemingly involving various symbolic implications. Due to the absence of letters, Miao people expressed their emotions and history in the design patterns. A series of developments in recent years has led to incorporating the temperament of the Miao people, history of migration, expression of emotions, and ideal hopes in Batik dyed design patterns and the symbolic functions have been significantly emphasized. Second, the decorativeness is mainly characterized by repeated patterns of the Miao Batik dyeing design. The overall patterns demonstrate design features characterized by regularization and simplification, along with a sense of rhythm with the unique arrangement of patterns. Third, the abstractness of the Batik dyeing design patterns is often found in plant and animal patterns, properly delivering new designs created by Miao women by extracting and rearranging various elements, including dots, lines, and faces shown in natural images. Fourth, playfulness is expressed by the transformation and distortion of Miao Batik patterns, and were created by applying patterns or other elements to original forms to express animal or plant patterns in a playful way.