• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• 스마트미디어저널
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.57-64
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• 2024

패션 이미지에 포함된 소재, 색상, 핏 등의 속성은 소비자가 의류를 구매하는 데 있어서 중요한 요인이다. 그러나 의류 속성을 분류하는 과정은 많은 인력을 필요로 하고, 작업자의 주관적인 판단에 의존하기 때문에 일관성이 떨어진다. 이러한 문제를 완화하기 위해 인공지능을 활용하여 패션 이미지의 의류 속성을 분류하는 연구가 필요하다. 기존 연구에서는 주로 상의 또는 하의 중 하나의 항목에 대한 의류 속성을 분류하는 것에 초점을 두고 있기 때문에 전신 패션 이미지의 경우에는 상의와 하의의 속성을 동시에 파악할 수 없다는 한계가 있었다. 본 연구는 패션 이미지의 상의와 하의를 구분하여 각 항목의 카테고리와 의류 소재의 속성을 분류할 수 있는 딥러닝 모델을 제안한다. 본 연구에서 딥러닝 모델 ResNet과 EfficientNet를 이용하였고, 학습에 활용한 데이터셋은 패션 이미지 1,002,718장과 의류 카테고리와 소재 속성을 포함한 라벨 총 125개를 사용하였다. Weighted F1-Score를 기준으로 ResNet은 0.800, EfficientNet는 0.781로 ResNet이 더 우수한 성능을 보였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.813-827
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• 2006

In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2008

This study focuses on the analysis of Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective which has established a theoretical basis on research of the critical reviews' salon exhibitions as written by Baudelaire. Charles Pierre Baudelaire(1821-1867) having lived during the latter part of Neo-classicism and the era of Romanticism and Impressionism, Baudelaire displayed opposition to customary realities such as social ideology or religious authority that suppressed human nature. Also he pioneered a new genre known as art criticism and wrote much that provided important insights on the essential elements of artistic work, modernity and trend, as well as art definition and art categories. The aesthetic perspective and creative spirit were formed by Baudelaire, during his age were also reconfirmed in the successive ages of modernism and postmodernism. As such, this study sheds light on how Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective was not only temporarily assertion but it is consistently applied to modern art and fashion area. What is more important that, Baudelaire admired new artificial beauty that is created by the human soul liberated from natural instincts or desires. Especially, informed by strangeness and distinctiveness, Baudelaire's view of fashion ran along the same vein as his view of art, and these views form the basis of that creative spirit which situated western fashion on a center of the world. In conclusion, the research on Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective will reaffirm a firm awareness of the creative spirit essential to globally-oriented creative artists and designers who work within the circumstance of the 21st century, a time when the paving of new aesthetic paths is necessary. The research also offers a clear understanding of the aesthetic values demanded by this age.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2003

So many patterns of the clothing give the specific indication for one's clothing behavior and present the common style for the society. Human being gives the one's free expression and attempts to change the existing cultural environment by the clothing even though human being would be restricted in choosing the clothing within the category of the society & the culture. The value of human being which attempts to escape the restriction through the behavior theory of T. Parsons is analysed and studied. The role of the modern society is being transformed and human being attempts to express one's self through the clothing very strongly. The clothing behavior means the expression of oneself for others. This phenomenon comes from the changing of human being's view of value through the social & cultural environment which give human being the freedom of the individual to choose the various clothing.

• 마케팅과학연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2010

由于生产的全球化以及国家之间的文化交流, 东方元素越来越吸引世界的眼球. 在时装界, 一个时装设计师的文化背景往往可以催生新颖的设计理念, 使他卓尔不群. 人们对于东方元素的喜爱, 给传统时装市场带来了巨大的商机, 并且把基于文化的业务拓展到全球时装市场. 然而, 包含韩国传统文化的国际品牌还有待开发. 为了发展有韩国特色的国际品牌, 韩国人首先要在国内服装市场上认同本国文化, 然后才能进军国外市场. 便服非常适合采纳韩国元素, 因为这种衣服有很多用途, 很容易被广泛接受和使用. 而且, 多用途便服和时尚内衣的市场需求越来越大. 尽管便服市场在快速发展, 但是对便服的专门研究尚不多见, 目前在对发展中的现代化传统服装、时尚产品和品牌的研究中, 并不包括对便服的研究. 因此, 本论文调查了韩国的便服市场, 研究了消费者对含有韩国传统时装设计特色的便服的评价. 分析了对于韩国传统时装设计元素有购买意向的先例之间的关系, 并且比较了不同生活群体的消费目标. 产品质量, 零售服务质量, 感受价值以及对拥有韩国传统设计元素的便服的喜好被作为购买意向的先决条件. 同时, 本文设计了一个结构方程模型, 用于探讨它们之间的关系以及它们对购买意图的影响. 产品质量和市场营销中的零售服务质量结合在一起, 成为影响人们对韩国特色便服的偏好和价值感知的因素. 而且, 偏好和价值感知对购买意向的影响可以用同一模型来检验. 通过网上调查系统由女性消费者完成了一共357份的自填式问卷, 并制定了一份调查样本人群的生活方式、对于产品和销售服务的标准、对于韩国特色便服的价值感知、偏好以及购买意向的调查问卷. 此外, 问卷还将调查便服的采购和使用行为, 以便检验韩国便服的市场地位. 并且使用描述性分析, 因素分析, 聚类分析来分析数据, 以及使用AMOS 7.0.来进行方差分析和建立结构方程模型. 对于韩国便服市场地位的调查结果显示, 在我们的样本人群中大多数消费者都购买了便服. 便服在目前被认为是在家里穿的衣服, 是消费者比较而言投入较低的衣服. 在调查中显示, 大多数消费者每年仅仅购买2到3次便服, 花费在10美元以下. 购买便服的消费者们的生活方式共有四类: 传统价值导向的生活方式, 品牌影响的生活方式, 追求休闲的生活方式以及健康导向的生活方式, 这四类共计有12个项目. 基于这些生活方式要素, 便服消费者们又可以分为两类: 安乐派和保守派. 文章估量了对含有韩国传统时尚设计元素的便服的购买行为各组成部分之间的关系, 产品质量和零售服务质量都会影响到购买便服的偏好和价值感知. 这个研究结论证明, 高质量的产品和零售服务会对便服形成积极的优先效应. 价值感知和对便服的偏好会对购买意图产生积极的影响. 这个结果表明, 对便服所含有的韩国传统时尚设计因素的强烈偏好和价值感知能增强购买意图. 在两种不同生活方式的群体(即安乐派和保守派)的模型比较中, 结果显示产品质量和零售服务质量对安乐派群体的偏好和感知价值都有积极影响. 然而, 对保守派来说, 只有零售服务质量对偏好和购买意图有积极的影响. 由于安乐派对购买意图显示出更重大的影响, 包含韩国传统时尚设计因素的便服品牌应该关注安乐派的这些特征. 然而, 保守派对包含韩国传统时尚设计因素的便服在偏好和购买意图的关系中显得更强. 因此对包含韩国传统时尚设计因素的便服品牌来说, 它应该把重点放在如何激发保守群体消费者对便服的积极偏爱上. 这些结果提供了关于韩国便服消费者生活方式的信息, 也对那些计划进入韩国便服市场的时尚品牌, 尤其是那些与现行研究样本相似的, 目标为女性消费者的时尚品牌提供了有用的信息. 这一研究也为便服品牌和那些打算创造含有韩国传统时尚因素的高价值品牌提供了策略和市场洞察力. 考虑到不同生活方式群体的类型和便服或传统时尚商品之间的关系, 品牌设计者和市场策划人员可以运用这一研究成果作为市场定位, 目标设定, 以及市场销售策略的一个参考.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.46-60
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• 2015

This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• 한국멀티미디어학회논문지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.688-698
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• 2009

인터넷을 이용하는 패션/코디 쇼핑몰은 그 시장이 매년 큰 폭으로 증가하고 있다. 하지만 대부분의 쇼핑몰들은 아직도 카테고리에 의한 상품 분류를 제외하면 특정한 의류를 찾을 수 있는 기능이 포함되어 있지 않아 사용자들이 불편을 겪고 있다. 본 연구에서는 여성복의 패션 코디네이션 시스템 구축 시 내용 기반의 방식 중 휴리스틱 기반 방식으로 시스템을 구축하기 위해 여성복의 특성을 가장 잘 나타낼 수 있는 속성들을 상속관계로 정의하고, 상품 관리자가 속성 값을 입력할 수 있도록 하였으며 가장 유사한 의류를 추천하기위한 방법을 소개하고 분석하였다.