• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.301-307
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate the problem and complaint of current flight suit derived with the questionnaires. The survey was carried out to the 137 aviators in Army Aviation School from April to May, 2007. The questionnaires were composed of personal characteristics, usage characteristics, wearing characteristics and free comments. Regard to the questionnaires of usage characteristics, they wore the flight suit over 6 hours a day and over 5 days a week. For wearing convenience item in usage characteristics it was revealed that fitness, ease and the location of pocket were not proper, Also, it showed that the material characteristics(e.g. insulation, absorption, and sensation) for flight suit was not proper. Regard to the questionnaire of wearing characteristics, the most inconvenient part is crotch as the answer on the question of "unfitting part in size" and "inconvenient part when wearing". Free comments for the improvement requests are various size, material, stitch strengthening, pattern modifying, and accessories.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to find out differences of women's professionalism and attractiveness according to the perceiver's level of interest on accessory, the object person's age, and accessory wearing. Subjects were 178 college women in Seoul. The evaluation of the accessory wearing was divided into five dimensions: professionalism, attractiveness, loveliness, femininity, and individuality. The look of accessory wearing had significant influences on the evaluation of professionalism and attractiveness. The women in their 40's wearing the scarf on a jacket were evaluatedhigh in professionalism, attractiveness, and femininity. The 40's wearing the cap with a T-shirt were evaluatedlow in professionalism and attractiveness. The women in their 20's wearing the cap with a T-shirt were evaluatedhigh in attractiveness and loveliness. Wearing of scarf enhanced professionalism, femininity, and individuality, wearing necklace enhanced femininity, and wearing cap enhanced loveliness of women. Perceiver's level of interest on accessory gave significant influences on perception of professionalism and attractiveness. The object person's age gave significant influences on loveliness, femininity, and individuality. Professionalism, attractiveness, loveliness, and femininity had interaction effects according to object person's age and accessories. When women in their 40's wore scarf or necklace, their professionalism was raised more than those in their 20's. Therefore accessory wearing was more effective to the women in their 40's than the 20's.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.69-89
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• 1987

The objective of this paper was to identify the general concept of subculture; to assess the symbolism of youth subculture style, such as Teds in the 40's, Mods in the 50's, Skinheads and Hippies in the 60's, and Punks in the 80's, giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. The data were collected from eye-wittness reports, interviews, magazines such as Vogue, The Face, and The Sunday Times, postcards, and photos taken by authors. Youth subcultures were symbolized as 1) a social protest and disaffection against social class and racism, 2) an expression of shock value for nihilism, anarchism, and vandalism, 3) a meaningful sexual fetishism concerning gender confusion, and 4) an emotion of rage, fear, and alienation among working class youth. One cultural form in a subculture is its 'style.' Costumes, appearances, and accessories such as hair style, make-up, and jewellery were playing an important role in forming a subcultural style. The symbolism of youth subculture was well depicted on their clothing styles, which had influences on Zandra Rhodes's, Body Maps', and Hyper and Hyper's fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.42-57
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• 2007

The purpose of study is to investigate costumes of the heroin in the opera which has performed by 4 different directors ; Metropolitan opera by Franco Zeffirelli, San francisco opera by David Hockney, Salzburg Festival by David Pountney and Korea Arena opera by Zhang Yi-mou. In these performances, Her costumes normally expressed the change of her characteristic from a haughty and cruel lady to a lady who realized a true love. The former is wearing exaggerative and splendid styles while the latter is wearing simple and ladylike styles. Costume styles of each performance are like this. In the Metropolitan's opera, costumes are very splendid using brilliant fabrics and accessories of Chinese peking opera. Their costume styles are influenced by Chinese 'Pao' which is similar to Ming Style. In the San Francisco's opera, costumes are very simple, specially pattern of dragons. This silhouette mixed Chinese style and western dress. In the Salzburg Festival's opera, costumes are based on simple western style but they expressed her mind effectively like a extremely long skirt which means her haughtiness. In the Seoul arena opera, costumes are based on Ming styles using silk which embroidered dragons, phoenixes and flowers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1939-1949
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify differences or similarities across the ensembles of 2006 F/W fashion trends in the big fashion centers such as Paris, London, New York, and Seoul, by street fashion research. The study focuses on understanding of localized fashion trend in the marketplace. We used photograph observation and analyzed data by SPSS program. We found there is a significant difference in winter outfits at these different global fashion mega cities. Most Korean women were wearing light colored outer jackets and blue jeans were dominant style for pants. The majority of Paris/London, New York and Seoul people on the street were wearing wool/wool like coat. Padded coats were worn more by New Yorkers than by people in Seoul. For the bottom, there is a similarity between Paris/London, and New York City, in that skinny pants were popular. Koreans were wearing skinny pants mostly, but the percentage of mini skirts/shorts was also higher than any other cities. We found that the cross-cultural fashion mega trend is similar in clusters, but there is a slight difference of trend in clothing color, style and design details, and accessories by localized fashion cities. Not only direct observation but also identification of cultural characteristics and consumer behavior through the years will bring much more contributions to apparel industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.265-278
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was that the real clothes is based on the cultural characteristic of the nation and is influenced by the consumers' psychology and desire in their daily lives. At this point, I investigated what was the most desirable clothes for the women in their home and at their office and found out how this aspect was expressed by Donna Karan design. Donna Karan noticed that executive women didn't want to wear such a masculine clothes, so she designed sensual and womanly clothes. She choosed active and comfortable fabric and made silhouette to cover woman's imperfect body. The colors of clothes and accessories were made to coordinate easily. Especially in advertisement she presented a executive New Yorker woman in trust as a symbol of American culture. Now, Donna Karan is one of the most successful fe-male designers and her influence is all over the world.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.63-70
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• 2006

This study is a review of the clothing behavior of kidult group that is a new minority group in 21st century. Kidult is the compound word of kid and adult and refers the persons who have become adults but with the inclination to focus on childlike culture and consumption. As the background of the appearance of the kidult group these days, the prevalence of throwback fashions, high valuation of appearance, the phenomenon to prefer light things caused by economic depression, the individualism that does not care about others and the ageless phenomenon that the consumptions are mind age oriented, may be pointed out. The most prominent cloth behavioral characters of the kidult group are that they enjoy bounding color combinations such as candy color and. that cute t-shirts, crop pants and volume skirts of girlish look are easily found. Also, they enjoy toy-like ornaments and illustrated clothes or accessories and the school uniform fashion implying nostalgia for girl-hood and lovely make-up indicate the kidult inclination.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.32-32
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• 2003

This research has for its object to look carefully into the peculiarity of the color of the costume in the Korean culture by revealing the characteristic and the idea of the color being discovered in the Korean basic culture, which has the majority of the Korean people. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done.