• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.14-26
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• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1155-1166
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate deconstructive trends of the street fashion in the 1990s spring/summer(S/S) Collections. This study was carried out by both the qualitative analysis and the quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the important street fashion was grouped and deconstruction was sampling of category. In the quantitative analysis, it took frequency, percentage and $\chi$$^2$-test. The results of the quantitative analysis are as follows: 1. \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" has been most popular street fashion through the 1990s. The next is \"Sportive Casual\". 2. According to \"deconstructive inner meanings\", there are significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. In \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Sportive Casual style\" and \"Technos/Cyber-punk\" style, \"Intertextuality\" is high. In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Exhibition of Otherness\" is high. 3. According to the \"deconstructive outer description\", there are also significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. But, In \"Neo-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Not Included\" is high, which means the \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" isnt related to the \"deconstructive outer description\". In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Poverty.outworn\" is high. In \"Sportive Casual\", \"Exposure\" is high. In the \"Technos/Cyber-punk\", \"Destruction.Division\" is high.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.771-783
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• 2008

In this paper, I studied the trends of naturalism reflected on the fashion trends in 2000s, and the design characteristics of naturalism showed in modern fashions, based on the information about women's wear trend serviced by www.samsungdesign.net. The analysis was focused on the Comme des Garcons collections, and the results are as follows. First, in modern society, the scientific and realistic concept of naturalism was being shifted to nature-friendly and actual concept which harmonized with nature conceived to be important in environments. Second, the interests on well-being and LOHAS introduced the actual naturalism, and the naturalism became a prominent trend at turning times to 21th century. Third, the concepts of naturalism showed in modern fashions could be categorized into ecology, primitive, retro and exotic trends. Finally, the Comme des Garcons collections did not follow a passing fashion trend only, instead they formed unformalized natural silhouette and details in the view of new analysis and philosophy of themselves. The silhouette represented a natural sense in harmony with colors of simple materials.

• 복식
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• 제65권8호
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• pp.125-135
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.317-326
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• 2002

This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.235-248
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• 2008

This study is on the characteristics of gloves in the modern fashion and has the purpose to review the style and the feature of gloves coordinated with clothes variously. The study started firstly with reviewing the related literature for the information of the origin, the process of development and the sort of gloves and then verified the results with photographs in the fashion magazines and collections at home and abroad since 1990s. The first characteristic is utility. Lining and covered materials use the materials excellent for keeping warm as the original purpose of wearing gloves is to protect hands against cold weather. It is demonstrated in the fashion collections that coordinating sieves appeals more often in fall-winter season than in spring-summer season. The second is sense of fashion. Gloves are normally coordinated with same materials and colors of clothes. But, gloves could create infinite varieties, make sufficient images through stressing splendid colors on achromatic colored clothes, shaping unique styles, transforming with various materials and ornaments. The last is sense of deconstruction. Gloves are transformed as a sort of clothes beyond the original use. Gloves are coordinated transcending the conventional thoughts, which makes it possible that Stoves appear in summer season, not in winter. Coordinating gloves appears free and unique through atypical formation.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.51-74
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.793-809
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• 2013

This study examined the trend and aesthetic value of image fashion of the 21st century through empirical case study with image media as fashion communication tool. This research is intended to provide the basic material for both better comprehension of image fashion as emotional medium in the modern fashion and more activated research on interactivity and communication in the fashion communication area by examining how fashion designers deliver their design philosophy, thought and vision via image fashion. For the research method, the theoretical study was realized about image media and fashion communication with focus on related literature and precedent research. Also, the empirical study was performed about image fashion covering 2005 through 2012 by the group of fashion film, fashion animation, and video look-book. Fashion image in the research was developed into various layouts that include the story based or non-story based creative images, many kinds of episode or behind-the-scenes story in the prep course of collection, designer's personal life or product world, or re-cutting course after collection. It also played a communicative role for public relation of new product ad, concept conveyance of seasonal collections, means as online collection to substitute for the existing offline collections, and better understandings of designer or fashion brand. Aesthetic values derived from case analysis of image fashion in the modern fashion of 21st century appeared in the form of trans-boundary as convergence art, fantasy in harmony with virtuality and reality, and interactivity among the humans, image media and fashions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.