• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze women apparel's colors in the Seoul, Beijing, and Tokyo collections and examine the color characteristics of three collections through comparison with trend colors suggested by Carlin, a color forecasting group. A literature review and an empirical study were used for methodology. The literature review examined the status and characteristics of the three collections, a fashion color forecast, and F/W 2014-15 trend colors by Carlin based on previous researches and literature data on fashion color. The empirical study extracted and analyzed 2014-15 F/W women's ready-to-wear collections in Seoul, Tokyo, and Beijing and compared the result with trend colors by Carlin. First, the colors of women's apparel were analyzed in the Seoul, Beijing, and Tokyo collections. All three collections commonly used achromatic colors and the percentage of Bk, Gy, Wh, R, and B colors was high. All three collections used achromatic colors frequently for the main color and sub colors. For accent colors, while the application of achromatic colors was high in the Seoul collection, the application of chromatic colors was high in the Tokyo and Beijing collections. Second, women's apparel colors in the Seoul, Beijing, and Tokyo collections were compared with trend colors suggested by Carlin. All three collections highly reflected Bk, Wh, and R (Carlin's forecasting color of 'Splendor') and B (forecasting color of 'Boreal'). However, the reflection of metallic colors suggested as a keyword of 'Brave New World' and Pk color of 'Sensitive' and 'Boreal' were a bit low.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.93-110
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• 2011

This study investigates the analysis on the acceptance of Foreign Fashion trends in Korean Fashion Collection by collections, years, season, and designers. The purpose of this study is Korean collection's degree to adopt and receive foreign collections, by comparative analysis of design features between Seoul and foreign collections. For such purpose, from 2006 S/S to 2011 F/W, 5185 pictures were collected from designer's photos of Seoul, Paris, Milan, NY, and London collections. The content analysis and statistical analysis using SPSS will be conducted for data analysis. The results of the research are as follows. First, regarding the design features, square-form silhouette, achromatic colors, and none pattern were presented as well. Second, there were significant differences in the design characteristics of each year. Particularly, in 2008, X-form silhouette, Yellow and Green color, and flower pattern were emphasized. Third, the design features by season were significant differences. In S/S season, square-form and X-form silhouette, achromatic colors of white and gray color, none pattern were evident while in F/W season, square-form Silhouette, achromatic colors of black and gray, and none pattern were emphasized. Fourth, the design features by designer are as follows. In terms of form, Seoul collection was influenced by Paris collection. In terms of colors, it was influenced by NY and London collections.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to investigate the characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2002 S/S to 2006/7 A/W. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 677 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of achromatic & chromatic color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) The achromatic & chromatic color coordination was identified as one of most used color coordination in contmeporary women's fashion collections. (2) Black and white mainly used for achromatic color, and brown used the most often, then followed by blue, red, yellow, green and the others for chromatic color in achromatic & chromatic coordination of contmeporary women's fashion collections. (3) The characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of modern women's fashion collections from 2002 S/S to 2006/07 A/W showed various images according to chromatic colors and tone variation. The combination of achromaticand brown color variations produced an intelligent and sophisticated image. The soft or light chromatic color and chromatic color combination projected soft, feminine and subtle feeling, while the combination of vivid or strong chromatic color and achromatic color projected a clean and strong feeling through contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. The chromatic color of deep or dark tone and black combination demonstrated supernatural and gloomy image. (4)In all four collections, Paris showed most use of two color coordination and then followed by Milan, N.Y, and London. N.Y showed higher rate of using achromatic & chromatic color coordination, and then followed by Paris, London and Milan.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제8권12호
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• pp.151-159
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• 2008

오늘날 사회의 제반현상들은 각 분야별로 각각의 트렌드가 있으나 복식의 변화와 관련된 패션 트렌드가 모든 트렌드를 주도적으로 이끌어가고 있다. 패션 컬렉션은 패션 트렌드와 관련하여 전반적인 경향과 특성을 살펴볼 수 있는데 파리, 밀라노, 뉴욕, 런던 컬렉션은 세계 4대 컬렉션으로 불리며 최신 유행을 창출하고 있다. 이러한 트렌드를 가장 빠르게 전해주는 패션 디자이너들의 컬렉션은 의상과 더불어 메이크업과 헤어, 액세서리 등의 전반적인 요소들을 보여준다. 패션 컬렉션에서 연출되는 메이크업은 디자인이나 색채뿐만 아닌 발상 자체에서부터 다양한 이미지가 시도되는 자리로 이를 중심으로 매 시즌의 새로운 메이크업 트렌드가 완성된다. 따라서 본 연구는 2008${\sim}$2009 F/W 패션 컬렉션의 메이크업 경향을 분석하고, 분석된 메이크업 경향이 각 화장품 브랜드의 새로운 트렌드에 미친 영향을 알아보고자 한다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.221-230
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• 2007

This research was focused on the changes of layered techniques in Hussein Chalayan's collections. For this purpose, the layered techniques in 134 works from Chalayan's collections, 97S/S to 06S/S, which were obtained from fashion magazines and fashion internet site, were analyzed and classified into 15 groups. Layered techniques in his works apparently expressed his philosophy about deconstruction. Multilayered feeling was given through using various techniques such as one layer clothing which was showed like multi-layered clothing. Others were multi-layer clothing which felt like one layer, breaking the stereotyped line of clothing into atypical construction and using various materials or constructive lines which made the optical feeling like one layer or multi-layer clothing, and so on. These layered techniques in Chalayan's collections were differentiated into several categories, such as techniques which were revealed in every collections, techniques which were differentiated from one another collections, techniques which were continuously showed through three collections for connection with each collection, techniques which were used only for Spring/Summer season, and techniques which were uniquely showed in early collection or recent collections.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.881-892
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• 2001

Applying the globalization theory to the fashion phenomena which regarded the phenomena of the contemporary culture as globalization, this study had an object of looking into the globalization tendency of the fashion phenomena shown Paris, London, Milno, New York, Tokyo, and Seoul collections from 1995 to 1999. The results of this study were as follows; 1. It was the blend of romanticism that was the most common trend shown at the six world collections. 2. The works appeared at the six world collections showed the regional peculiarity under the historical background or the sociocultural influence each city had. 3. Another character appeared at the six city collections was the appearance of multi-ethnic style mixed various regional motive at a work. After all, the world fashion phenomena in the second half of 1990's could be condensed into globalization appeared homogenization, regionalization and hybridization at the same time.