• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.537-543
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the comfort and fabric hand characteristics of selected lining fabrics made of acetate and polyester. The comfort of the linings was determined by human subjects wearing suit blazers constructed with different lining materials in an environmental chamber controlled at $30.6^{\circ}C$ air temperature and 50% relative humidity. The hand characteristics of the lining fabrics were determined by five trained panelists using standard fabric reference samples. The effect of lining fabrics on the subjects' thermal sensations was not statistically significant. But the subjects voted warmer when wearing the polyester surah lined blazer or the polyester taffeta blazer than wearing the acetate blazers. The results of the subjective comfort evaluation indicated that, in general, the subjects rated the acetate linings significantly less sticky, clammy, damp, and non-absorbent than the polyester linings. Acetate surah was rated a little higher than the other acetate fabrics on these comfort descriptors. The results of the subjective hand evaluation indicated that the lining fabrics rated low on the geometric and mechanical hand characteristics and rated moderate on noise. Acetate surah scored the highest on most of the hand characteristics, whereas, polyester taffeta scored the lowest.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.235-242
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop a scale for the evaluation of the subjective fabric hand. In order to find out the appropriate method for the evaluation, bipolar adjectives were compared to unipolar adjectives. One hundred female university students we.e selected as judges. They assessed 9 fabrics using the 9 point scale system for both bipolar and unipolar adjectives. When using the bipola. scale, judges responded more consistently showing smaller deviation among their responses. The Judges seemed to understand the meanings of adjectives in the bipolar scale more clearly than in the unipolar scale. Unipolar scale has twice the number of questions than bipolar scale does. Therefore. judges often felt bored responding to the questions using unipolar adjectives. If the appropriate antonym can be found through verified method, bipolar scale seems to have more advantages than unipolar scale.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.9
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• pp.97-107
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• 2002

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.275-281
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate hand and sensibility of PET treated by Ultra-Violet (UV). The 4-channel PET knit fabric was treated by a self-made UV instrument in 5cm distance with different time frames-0min, 30min, and 90min. For hand evaluation, mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The environmental condition was controlled at 29$^{\circ}C$, 75% (R.H.)-summer standard climate. Twenty female students evaluated 'roughness', 'smoothness', 'wetness', 'stiffness', 'coolness', 'touch', 'preference', and 'comfort'. The outcomes of the experiment are as follows: The surface roughness of mechanical properties showed significant differences and the value of PET irradiated by UV for 90min was highest. The order of primary hand value such as NUMERI and FUKURAMI was in a following order-Untreated > 30min treated > 90min treated. Total hand value showed that PET irradiated by UV for 90min was appropriate for using summer fabric. The results of subjective sensibility were that the untreated and 30min treated PET were recognized as similar and had a good evaluation on 'comfort', 'preference' and 'the sense of touch'. This consequence disagreed with total hand value, because it was considered that subjects' hand sensibility was dependent on the feel of smoothness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.21-29
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• 2009

In order to enhance the functionality of a cotton fabric actually used as a clothing material for patients, the fabrics were treated with a chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. The nanosilver had excellent biocompatibility, provided expectation of an additional performance, did not harm human beings, and supplements chitosan, which was disadvantaged if used alone for fabric treatment. The nanosilver was mixed thereto and a treatment effect due to a mixing ratio was considered. This study was observed through mechanical properties and hand value which were the important function. The treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution gave a smoother surface than the treatment of chitosan alone. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the cotton fabric was a little smooth to provide elasticity, due to the treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. THV of the treated fabrics calculated from this basis increased at all mixing ratio as compared with the untreated fabric. The fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution were shown a better THV than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.58-64
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• 1995

In this study, we attempted to expect the mechanical characteristics of the wool fabrics by knowing the yarns. Moreover, we believe that we could apply these results to fabric design. We investigated the relationship between the mechanical characteristics of yarns and fabrics. As results, we have found that bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, compressional energy and compressional linearity between yarns and fabrics had correlated more than r=0.5. Also, the correlation between regression and experimental values is r=0.5 in stiffness while it is r=0.67 in fullness. And regression values were larger than experimental ones in stiffness, but were not in fullness. The correlation between regressional and experimental values had 0.63 in THV. According to the study, it is possible to apply it to fabric design when our predicting the primary hand and the total hand values of the fabrics from the mechanical characteristics of the yarns.