• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to improve sustainable clothes care by comparing household washer's standard course and quick course. Detergency at each course was classified by laundry weight, detergent concentration, and soils. Also, fabric damage from each course was compared. Washing experiments were carried out using two types of washing machines and three types of detergents. Using the standard soiled fabrics of EMPA 108 set, detergency was compared by laundry weight, soil, and detergent concentration. Additionally, fabric damage was evaluated using the mechanical action of MA-40. The results of the research were as follows. First, a standard course, having more working time exhibited better detergency than a quick course. However, the detergency deviation under 6kg laundry weight was as low as 9.0%. Second, detergency by the type of soil was more effective in standard course than in a quick course, but hydrophilic protein soils had a small detergency deviation at 7.6%. Moreover, hydrophobic oil, complex, and particulate soils had a higher deviation at 19.7% Third, fabric damage was in proportion to operating time. Fourth, a quick course showed approximately 80% detergency regardless of the type of detergent. in the case of using 50% of the recommended allowance by the detergent manufacturer. In conclusion, reducing the operating washing time and detergent concentration is in accordance with increasing sustainability, in the case of washing with lightly soiled fabrics under 6kg of laundry weight.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.127-136
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to examine improvements in dye uptake, expression of various colors, and color fastness when washed or exposed to light. We examined these improvements by doing the combination dyeing of Juniperus chinensis heartwood and Alnus japonica heartwood extracts. In this study, two combination dyeing methods were used. One-bath dyeing involves combining Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract and Alnus japonica heartwood extract. Two-bath dyeing involves dyeing by sequence, which means that we dyed the Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyed Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially (or in the opposite order). In terms of improving dye uptake, two-bath dyeing was more effective than one-bath dyeing. For cotton, dyeing Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyeing Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially showed higher dye uptake in the two-bath method, while for silk, there wasn't much difference in the dyeing order. Through combination dyeing, red-violet color from Juniperus chinensis heartwood and brown color from Alnus japonica heartwood made various Y, YR, R series of color as a result. Moreover, combination dyeing improved fabric's fastness when washed or exposed to light. In the case of cotton, fabric dyed using two-bath dyeing, with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract being the first dye, showed improvement in fastness to washing and light. And in the case of silk, fastness to washing and light improved regardless of dyeing order in two-bath dyeing.

• 감성과학
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2018

웨어러블 광섬유 직물의 주요 요건은 의류에 적용하기 위해 높은 유연성을 전제로 해야 한다는 점과 인체의 평평한 부위뿐만 아니라 굴곡이 있는 구간에서도 발광 효과, 즉 휘도를 유지해야 한다는 점이다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 위 조건을 충족하는 웨어러블 광섬유 직물의 세부 구조를 직조(weaving) 타입과 자수(computer embroidery) 타입의 2가지로 제작하였고, 이를 토대로 다음의 두 가지 조건에서 실험을 실시하였다. 첫째, 굴곡이 없는 평평한 상태에서의 웨어러블 광섬유 직물을 1cm간격으로 총 10개의 측정점을 좌표화하여 그 휘도를 측정하였다. 둘째, 인체 부위 중 입체적 굴곡이 발생하는 팔뚝 부위에 가로 방향으로 웨어러블 광섬유 직물을 배치하고 1cm 간격으로 총 10개의 측정점을 좌표화하여 그 휘도값을 측정하였다. 그 결과 직조(weaving) 타입의 경우, 평평한 상태에서의 휘도값은 최대 $5.23cd/m^2$, 최소 $2.74cd/m^2$, 평균 $3.56cd/m^2$, 표준편차 $1.11cd/m^2$로 나타났고, 팔뚝 부위에서의 휘도값은 최대 $7.92cd/m^2$, 최소 $2.37cd/m^2$, 평균 $4.42cd/m^2$, 표준편차 $2.16cd/m^2$로 나타났다. 또한 자수(computer embroidery) 타입의 경우, 평평한 상태에서의 휘도값은 최대 $7.56cd/m^2$, 최소 $3.84cd/m^2$, 평균 $5.13cd/m^2$, 표준편차 $1.04cd/m^2$로 나타났고, 팔뚝 부위에서의 휘도값은 최대 $9.62cd/m^2$, 최소 $3.63cd/m^2$, 평균 $6.13cd/m^2$ 표준편차 $2.26cd/m^2$ 나타났다. 즉, 자수(computer embroidery) 타입의 경우가 직조(weaving) 타입의 경우에 비해 더 높은 발광 효과를 보였는데 이는 자수(computer embroidery) 타입의 세부 구조가 배면 소재로 인해 빛의 손실을 줄일 수 있었기 때문으로 사료된다. 또한 두 타입 모두에서 팔뚝부위의 휘도가 평평한 상태에 비해 각각 124%, 119%로 나타나, 인체의 굴곡에도 본 웨어러블 광섬유 직물의 발광효과가 우수하게 나타남을 알 수 있었다. 이는 빛의 파동설을 정의한 호이겐스의 원리(Huygens' principle), 빛 파면의 진행 방향과 이루는 각도(${\theta}$)의 크기에 커지면 이와 비례하여 빛의 세기도 커진다는 호이겐스-프레넬-키르히호프 원리(Huygens-Fresnel-Kirchhoff principle)와 일치하는 결과이다.

• 멤브레인
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.142-150
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 지하수 내 질산성 질소 이온을 제거하기 위해 전기투석 공정에 적용가능한 음이온교환 복합막을 제조하였다. 막의 제조를 위해 기본 단량체로 vinyl benzylchloride (VBC)와 styrene (ST), 가교제로 divinylbenzene (DVB), 그리고 개시제 $\alpha,\alpha$-azobis(isobutyronitrile) (AIBN)으로 이루어진 단량체 용액에 구조적으로 단단한 fabric을 함침한 후 열중합 가교시켜 복합막을 생성한 다음 trimethylamine (TMA)과 acetone을 이용해 음이온 교환기($-N^+(CH_3)_3$)를 함유하는 복합막을 제조하였다. 제조한 아민화 완료된 poly(VBC-ST-DVB)/fabric 복합막들의 특성을 알아보고자 막의 함수율, 이온교환 용량(IEC) 및 전기저항을 아스톰사의 상용화 음이온교환막(AMX)과 비교 조사하였다. 그 결과 제조된 막들은 아스톰사의 AMX보다 높은 IEC와 낮은 전기저항 특성을 나타냈다. 또한 제조된 음이온막을 전기투석장치에 설치하여 $NaNO_3$, $MgSO_4$, NaF (각각 100 mg/L) 등의 이온제거 실험을 60분 수행한 결과 $NaNO_3$뿐만 아니라 $MgSO_4$, NaF 이온 등도 1 mg/L 이하까지 잘 제거되었음을 확인할 수 있었으며, 전기투석 15분 전후로 하여 이온전도도값의 변화가 거의 없는 것으로 보아 전기투석 특성을 실험한 결과 전기투석 약 15분 이내에 이온이 제거되었음을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

The study was about on the colorfastness of the natural vegetable dye. Impatient Balsamina was chosen as a speciesof the natural vegetable dye. It has a long history for Korean Women‘s grooming on the nail to be reddened, Actually those were very easy to gather and easy to extract the colors from the leaves and the flowers, Also Impatient Balsamina were abundant near our environment. So this was a cue as a natural dye for the wool fabric, This study was designed to testify the possibility of the Impatient Balsamina as a natural vegetable. First, 2 kinds of extracts from the Impatient Balsamina were prepared. Second, 2 kinds of mordants and 3 kinds of dyeing process were used. And the dyed wool fabric were evaluated the color index using Chroma Meter, the result was recorded as L$^*$, a$^*$, b$^*$ value(65.86, 16.40, 36.80). The effect of the mordants was more effective in Cr mordant than Al mordant in the color fastness and the color affinity. The very interesting results were in the colorfastness to the drycleaning, that was graded 4 to 5, but the colorfastness to light was low, graded 2. Impatient Balsamina was veryfied, it could be a natural vegetable dye for the wool fabric.