• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.50-61
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• 2014

Fashion has been compared to art since Japanese avant-garde fashion designers expanded the thoughts about conceptual fashion in late 1970s. The fashion designers focused on the materiality of fashion textiles by placing more importance on it than the shapes. This bears a striking resemblance to contemporary art of 1960s and 1970s as many artists used soft materials like felt, fabric, rubber to emphasize themselves. This study establishes the materiality of fabric, which can be found in both contemporary art and fashion. The classification of materiality consists of flexibility, humanizing and temporality. In this work, there is a significant disparity between contemporary art and fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.37-49
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data of dress design by researching three-dimensional decorative techniques representing flowers, a popular motif in dress design. This study analyzed 44 dresses that were presented in Valentino collection. The result of this study is as follows: First, the detailing expression method can show various patterns and colors through embroidery technique, sub-materials, and bonding techniques in embroidery, beads flower, and ribbon flowers. Second, the fabric flower technique expressed flower image in three-dimension in more various images than do either the ribbon or beads flower technique. Fabric flowers are mostly made from the same material as dresses. The expression technique of fabric flower is classified into the following three classifications: 1) A technique underlying a flower image with one, two and three large flowers, 2) a technique decorating a large area with a number of an identical motif, and 3) a technique highlighting a part of the body or design line by attracting eyes to one point, creating a corsage decorated where a designer wants to emphasize. Third, a silhouette technique realizes a flower image with a silhouette of a dress like sculpted structure and it is thus used less than a detailing expression technique. A flower image is expressed by making use of body lines or emphasizing the face. Finally, flower images on a dress were realized as a full blossomed flower, through visually streamlined shapes and curved lines.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.245-249
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• 2006

The effect of scouring, bleaching and dyeing on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of wool woven fabrics was studied. Fabric properties were measured by the KES-FB system. In general, mechanical properties of the treated fabrics are greatly affected by scouring, moderately by dyeing and least by bleaching.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.385-388
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• 2008

Four kinds of PET fabrics were coated with Copper and Nickel by electroless chemical plating, and the electromagnetic wave shielding effectiveness for those samples have been examined. The shielding effectiveness showed between 90 dB and 70 dB, and it related to the fabric structure, such as cover factor and cloth density. The dense fabric structure showed the better shielding effect.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.129-142
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• 2013

Fabrics created unique features through the change in various ways depending on the elements including fabric structure, threads, thickness, weaving, patterns and processing. This study examined the difference between texture and image depending on components of fabrics. In order to understand the trend of components of fabrics, the actual components of fabrics was analyzed by year, using the women's apparel trend books, Nelly Rodi Fabrics and Promostyl Fabrics. This study analyzed Spring/Summer season and Fall/Winter season from 2002 to 2012. Frequency analysis, cross-tabulation analysis, multiple response cross tabulation analysis were implemented using SPSS 18.0. The followings are the analysis results. For fabric composition, Spring/Summer season used cotton fabric the most. Cotton fabric accounted for relatively high usage in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Fall/Winter season used wool the most in 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005. In case of fiber blend by fabric composition, cotton was blended with other fibers in Spring/Summer season except wool. The fiber blending ratio of wool was the highest in Fall/Winter season. Wool was blended in most fabrics. More than two patterns were mixed for fabric patterns. The fabric patterns were applied the most in 2012. For fabric processing, the fabrics by sensitivity-functional processing were continuously used every year and the surface finish showed relatively high usage in 2002 and 2011. In conclusion, this study will build the systematic data for 11 years including fabric trends in the past. It can improve specialization, systematization and efficiency in fabric planning.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.