• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.117-127
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• 2002

Patterns presented at baroque were mostly floral pattern. Abstract anonymous flower, tulip, Acandus leaf, pomegranate were blended with one another and had a distinct leaning toward continuation and repetition. Components of design could be classified into flower and leaf, flower and fruit, flower and circumferential ornament, bunch of flowers, flower and pot, flower and geometry, and flower and animal. Floral patterns in this era were mostly fullness type being large, simple, and having more formalized motive and were fronted with unit type and vine shape. Unit type shows reflection of baroque style which aims to present absolute unification rather than freedom, which was inherent property of baroque style, by using symmetric pattern. Vine type were unfolded with C type curved line which was main characteristics of that time and showed flowage as a whole and pliable beauty. Floral pattern was filled the whole surface of fabric, thus background of fabric can not be discerned. So, it showed extreme decorative tendency and lavishness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.642-649
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• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• 복식
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• 제52권3호
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• pp.149-160
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• 2002

Symbolism found in a certain object inherits characteristics from the culture that contains the objects. The purpose of this study was investigate the formative beauty of Korean trousers twisted the pieces together based on the way of Korean thinks and the Topology. The shape is formed by cutting from the fabric. From the perspective of semiology, the fabric and the pattern shape correspond to ground and figure. Ground and figure are identical with the principle of the whole and the part, which is the same in Korea, China, and the West. But In Korea, the 3-dimensional garment is made by adding a twist. This is very important and defines the difference in the way of thinking and topology. Korean trousers consist of three parts : Hury, Marupok, and Sapok. The small Sapok can be made by removing the Marupok and large Sapok (figure) from the fabric (ground) when making Korean trousers. A Mobius strip is made when the large Sapok is adjoined with the small Sapok by reversing the small Sapok, making a 180$^{\circ}$twist and then stitching together. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi. thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strop. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi, thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strip. Hury is cylinder while the small and large Sapok make up the Mobius strip. As a result, Mobius strip, Kleins'bottle, protective plan can be applied in cutting Hanbok used in the countryside, so I have come to see that the traditional Korean way of thinking is closely related to the theory of topological.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to apply 3D computer graphics in fashion design as a creative medium and it attempts to fine out what advantages 3D technique can offer to fashion design. For this purpose, this study, first, tries to develop a 3D digital model in which designer can select design, color , pattern and fabric palette whatever necessary . This study uses of the software named 'Poser of Fractal Design' and the and the 3D digital model comprises four stages ; body modeling, item design (item coordination), color design (color coordination), pattern and fabric design (pattern and fabric coordination). Secondly, this study seeks to accumulate a data base which was produced in the course of case studies, which have applied 3D digital model to design. The outcome of the case studies shows that 3D digital model can enhance designing in the following four aspects. ⅰ) It can give more freedom to designer to try various ideas, revise and modify them, It can also produce random generation. Through this process, the designer test various input and output without damage on fabric after revision and alteration. ⅱ) It can help designers to enhance their accuracy. Since fault in the design developed by the 3D digital model can be detected in advance, designers can make correlation before actual work begins. In the end, designers can express their ideas and intention accurately as well as freely. ⅲ) Since design developed by the 3D digital model can be shared on screen by various actors in the course of priduction such designers , merchandisers, and supervisors, it can help communication between and cut the time of feedback.ⅳ) By using the 3D digital model, designers can work from the begining with awareness of actual outcome their design, since the 3D digital model provide animation, which helps designers to envisage visual changes as they apply various items, colors, pattern and fabrics.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.11-17
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• 2005

This study was performed to analysis the operation process when fabric pattern design was done by the use of CAD system compared with the manual work in order to determine the operation efficiency with the application of fabric design CAD system. The results of the study were as follows: 1. since 160,000 colors were supported by CAD system, color proposed by consumer was able to match exactly according to the its design. However, exact color matching was not possible by manual work. 2. Woven state of back of pattern design could be identified simultaneously with face of it for CAD system, while face and back of the fabrics should be designed separatedly in case of manual work. 3. Since the combination of warp and filling yarn was compatible with the fabric density in one repeat unit in CAD system, exact size of pattern design to be woven was able to expressed. 4. Only simple graphical expression by manual work was seen, while with the CAD system, texture and shade effect as well as graphical expression could be expressed and so fault could be reduced in advance with the simulation of actual feeling of fabrics in the screen. In conclusion, when CAD system will be introduced to the textile industry, operation time of designing pattern can be reduced. Since the operation is easy and simple, a beginner can operate CAD system easily. Thus, production and wage costs can be saved and this can be related directly with the improvement of productivity which is the main purpose of introducing CAD system.

• 대한전기학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한전기학회 1987년도 정기총회 및 창립40주년기념 학술대회 학회본부
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• pp.311-315
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• 1987

This paper describes the automatic visual inspect ion system of fabric defects based on pattern recognition techniques. To extract features for detection of fabric defects, four different techniques such as SGLDM. GCM, decorrelation method, and Laws' texture measure were investigated. From results of computer simulation, it has been found that GCM and decorrelation techniques provide good features. By employing a simple statistical pattern recognition technique, theaccuracy of classification of defect and nondefect was more than 90%. Some experimental results arm also presented.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.134-147
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person's individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

With recent advances in 3D scanning technology, three-dimensional (3D) patternmaking is becoming a powerful way to develop garments pattern. This technology is now applicable to the made to measure (MTM) system of both ordinary and tightly fitting garments. Although the pattern of fitted clothing has been developed using 3D human data, it is still interesting to develop cycling pants by considering while-cycling body posture and fabric elasticity. This study adopted the Garland's triangle simplification method in order to simplify data without distorting the original 3D scan. Next, the Runge-Kutta method (2C-AN program) was used to develop a 2D pattern from the triangular pixels in the 3D scanned data. The 3D scanned data of four male, university students aged from 21 to 25, was obtained using Whole body scanner (Model WB4, Cyberware, Inc., USA). Results showed the average error of measurement was $4.58cm^2$ (0.19%) for area and 0~0.61cm for the length between the 3D body scanned data and the 2D developed pattern data. This is an acceptable range of error for garment manufacture. Additionally, the 2D pattern developed, based on the 3D body scanned data, did not need ease for comfort or ease of movement when cycling. This study thus provides insights into how garment patterns may be developed for ergonomic comfort in certain special environments.