• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.21-39
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop a creative technique in fashion illustration through analyzing expressive characteristics of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$. This study is analyzed by examining the general theories of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ and investigating the expressive technique related to the method of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ in surrealism art and the expressive characteristics which is applied to fashion illustration. In this study, the researcher examines cases of the application of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ to the fashion illustration through reviewing fashion illustrators' art works created since 2000. $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ is unfamiliar impression with lexical meaning in french that is translated by transposition or displacement technique, or country and one's home leave or person put in strange living environment. The characteristics of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ in fashion illustration include spatial distortion, combination of heterogeneous objects located anywhere odd and modification and conversion of objects such as material change, change-over of scale in usual objects and conversion of inanimate objects into organism. As a result of reviewing the expressive characteristics of Depaysement from fashion illustration artworks, it is found that the fashion illustration with $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ fortified the individuality in fashion illustration and helps produce a creative inspiration which results in a distinctive ideas. This also has a greate possibilities to produce a tremendous ideas in fashion illustration.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.99-109
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• 2023

Loewe Craft Prize is currently the most influential craft contest. During the contest, contemporary craftworks, as art with excellent aesthetic value, are selected as finalists but there are no enough studies on them as subjects. This study aimed to investigate contemporary textile pieces found in the fashion brand Loewe's Craft Prize, a Loewe Foundation Craft Prize and elucidate their expressive characteristics. The methodology of the study was a qualitative study that derives the expressive characteristics of the works within the scope of the study through case analysis along with theoretical reviews. The selection of research subjects was based on 22 works of textile pieces among the works selected as finalists for the last six years since the first year of the prize in 2016. The analysis of textile pieces showed first, the emphasis on traditional expression, second, the development of new expressive techniques for the material, and third, the pictorial character revealed in flat pieces. The expressive characteristics of contemporary textile art shown in the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, derived based on such results were, first, the confirmation of the unique capabilities of craft through the inheritance of tradition, second, the rediscovery of textile properties through material experimentation, and third, the possibility of expanding the field of textile due to the pictorial character.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.123-138
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to review the expressive effect of fashion illustrations and to enlarge its expressive range by analysing the correlations between fashion illustrations and surrealistic expressive characteristics. The results are as follows. The surrealistic expressive methods of fashion illustration such as depaysement and automatism have been used by many foreign and domestic fashion illustrators. I think that these methods reinforce the subjective aspect of expressive effects and enlarge the transmitting function of fashion message. The elements of expression are divided into color, texture, shape/form and space. Subjective colors rather than natural colors are used for the surrealistic expressive effect of color in fashion illustrations, and illusion of space is expressed by the change of brightness. The surrealistic expressive effect in fashion illustrations distorted the experience of factual texture and disturbed the visual texture. The use of tactile texture presented strange effects perspectively. The objects of shape in fashion illustrations were mainly human body. The form of human body presents reconstituted and reinterpreted figure by transformation or distortion according to the intention of the artist rather than realistic and physical form. In fashion illustration, the transformation of the human body itself whose body parts get separated, superposition of exterior material and human body, and the distortion of human body by the change are done. Space is where background and shapes are inter-penetrated because they are ambiguous and untransparent, and where all are in disorder and unbalance. The method of projection uses distance perspective, multiple perspective and amplified perspective representation, and forms a psychological space feeling. And I think the use of surrealistic expressive methods are very useful for the subjective sensitiveness and the transmission of a fashion message, and presents a possibility to develop a new expressive method.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.3 s.50
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• pp.165-172
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• 2005

Cubism is a style that led the way to proclaim a new era of 20th century's art and contemporarily had an influence on several trends of thoughts. Geographically it formed Czech Cubism exerting an effect upon thoughts and plastic art of the progressive art group which showed activity around Prague, Czech in 1911, later for 10 years, it was developed as an unique form of which origin cannot be traced inside and outside Europe and expressed its own plastic art world in craft, furniture, painting, architecture, etc. The object of this study is to pull out the expressive characteristics showed especially in furniture design among Czech Cubism around interrelationship with painting, craft and architecture. The scope of study is to bring out the characteristics about the examples which 7 designers such as Josef Gocar, Pavel Janak, etc., who were representative designers of furniture design of Czech Cubism for 15 years from 1910 to 1925. The method of study is to investigate the origin of Czech Cubism by means of primitive elements of Africa, traces of Islamic architectures, and Czech traditional architectural motive, and the development process of Czech Cubism was arranged around the artist and exhibitions which led this current. After being synthesized the characteristics showed in painting, craft, architecture of Czech Cubism on the basis of the result of this study, the expressive characteristics of furniture design of Czech Cubism were brought out. As a result, the expressive characteristics of furniture design of Czech cubism are indicated in a large way as follow; 1) symbolic characteristic based on primitive plastic art, 2) dynamic characteristic by dividing form, 3) ethnic decorative characteristic combined with national motive. The significance of furniture design of Czech Cubism is not only to accept positively and digest the progressive trend of modern art, that is to say, Paris Cubism but also to succeed in recreate it in its own national style, to play a role to offer another motive to post modern design development at the end of 20th century and by means of these examples to provide the necessity and the base of more profound study in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.515-526
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• 2009

From traditional ceremony to science technology, origami was used as technique for artistic creativity and functionality based on formative characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive characteristics of functionality in fashion design using origami technique. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, fashion magazines, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In various fields of design, the category of the expressive characteristics was classified as efficient correspondence of space, compositive convergence of function, variable potentiality of form and human ergonomic optimum. In recent origami fashion based on functionality, the efficient correspondence of space was expressed constructive or decorative pocket design, using on clothing surface and varied design by lifestyle. The compositive convergence of function was expressed innovative connection of fashion items or non-fashion items and deconstructed classical clothing pattern. The variable potentiality of form was expressed control of form by irregular fold, dynamic metamorphosis by organic fold and creation of varied clothing silhouette. The human ergonomic optimum was expressed metamorphosis mechanism from two dimension to three dimension, suitable construction to physical ability and limit and organic form based on articular folding. The functional origami fashion means reflection of nomadic lifestyle, maximum of usability, pursuit of playful sensibility, creation of new body aesthetic and pursuit of technology and humanism. And the result of these study may be used for creative inspiration in fashion design because of unique characteristics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.97-108
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• 2018

This study is based on the way Kim Kwang Soo works, which reveals a strong expressive tone that is rare in Korean architecture. His work is not decorative and symbolic representation of the intention of positive amusement. Therefore, the following noteworthy points will arise. The various phenomena associated with architecture and society are researched and analyzed in a critical manner. So, it creates and expresses its own formal logic. In this study, the theory of the subversive appropriation theory was identified by using the expressive characteristics of engagement. The study was based on a conceptual framework for the overturning of the mimesis, which Benjamin and Adorno have described. From this, this study summarizes Kim Kwang Soo's nihilistic attitude, finding boundaries and crack points, and subversive expression as a new form of architectural formal logic as main characteristics of interpretation of works. The characteristics of subversive expression of Kim Kwang Soo architecture derived from this are as follows. It does not take an ideological approach to the dismantling of the internalization of traditional Korean architecture. Popular culture and social phenomena are used as materials for expression. These are structured sensibly with appropriated formal logic. Finally, the architectural position adhered to the limit of performativity was recognized as the dimension of new meaning generation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.110-128
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of Chinese shadow puppetry costumes. Literature study and case analysis were conducted using books, research papers, and materials from the Xi'an shadow puppetry museum. Based on the Chinese traditional costumes, the shape characteristics are utilized with the intaglio and embossing techniques, and the complex and unnecessary details are omitted to express the costume image in a characteristic and simple manner. Second, colour was used according to the traditional Chinese symbolic colour concept, and the brighter the colour, the higher the role's status. The colour was also used to express identity and character. In addition, relatively vivid and highly saturated colours were used for the transparent effect of the shadow puppetry. Third, a role's status is indicated by the density and completeness of the patterns; the higher the role's status, the more complex and sophisticated the patterns, and the lower the status, the simpler the patterns or no patterns are used. Fourth, the faith for blessing expressed in the shadow puppetry is a representative folk auspicious culture. The repertoire of the shadow puppetry and the patterns on the costumes worn by the puppets, express the culture in an implicit way to symbolize the meaning of auspicious things.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.37-46
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• 2023

This study aims to develop workwear prototypes by applying a systematic approach considering the characteristics of workwear. A case study was conducted before this study to derive workwear's four characteristics: 'Ergonomic Pattern-Making, Certified Fabric, Specialized Color, and Customized Details.' a prior study proposed the integrated framework combining these characteristics with the FEA model. The new framework identified that these characteristics are considered in terms of functionality, expression, and aesthetics; it can increase workers' satisfaction and meet the market demand without concentrating on only particular aspects. Before prototype production, the requirements for each characteristic of workwear were analyzed through theoretical research of previously published related papers. The study primarily gathered workwear requirements data and sources from consumer satisfaction surveys and investigations into the wearing conditions of work clothes. When considering all aspects of pattern-making, fabric, color, and detail in functionality, 'comfort movement, body protection, improved work efficiency' were identified as necessary. Expressive requirements were fundamental, including 'reflecting the wearer's preferences, expressing a sense of belonging and identity. It was clear that incorporating design elements and applying current trends to the aesthetic requirements of work clothes was necessary. Four prototypes comprised two top and bottom sets and two overalls using these requirements. The framework was used throughout the entire process of planning, producing, and evaluating prototypes, and through this, the results fulfilled the requirements. This study is significant because it produced workwear prototypes using an integrated approach that considered functional, expressive, and aesthetic aspects.