• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.371-376
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• 2010

The great jar estimated in Proto-Three Kingdoms period was found at the site from Pyeongtaek Daechuri and the bonding traces from pieces destroyed when they were excavated are observed. Therefore this study would figure out the components of bonding material used in great jars by optical microscope, FT-IR, py-GC/MS and the kind of textile attaching to great jar by transmitted light microscope. As a result of optical microscope for the cross-section, black material is uniformly applied between a piece of jar and the part of bonding and the textile line are observed. Black bonding material is resulted in korean rhus lacquer by FT-IR and py-GC/MS and the kind of textile is identified as hemp by transmitted light microscope. Materials for repairing archaeological objects are hardly known causing little information, but this study proves that the bonding material had used lacquer for great jars before Proto-Three Kingdoms period. Therefore if ancient bonding materials are systematically analysed in the further studies, it would be significant help for studying bonding and restoration materials of ancient objects.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.589-594
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for design and pattern development research in the modernization of Cheollik by comparing and analyzing the interrelationships between the components of the Cheollik. The 237 pieces of excavated costume Cheollik in the museums were surveyed. The size of the Cheollik components were examined by 100 year unit from 1400s to after 1800s. In the 1400s, the length of Cheollik was the shortest and the length of top was longer than the bottom. In the 1700s, the total length was the longest and the bottom was longer than the top. As the age increases, the total length and the bottom become longer and the length of the top becomes shorter. Poom and Gutseop were the largest in the 1400s and the smallest the after 1800s. As the age of the Poom and Gutseop decreased, the width of the Anseop increased. Gutseop was always present but Anseop was not always present in Cheollik components. As the ages passed, Jindong and Soogu became narrower and Baerae became wider. These change of Cheollik's sleeves form were affected by GongBok(so-called official wear) sleeves. By age, Cheollik did not show any big change in the basic shape, but the partial dimensions of the components showed changes. If the design and pattern research for modernization is done based on systematic establishment of pattern dimension of Cheollik, Cheollik dress combines practicality while preserving beauty and tradition at the same time.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.424-437
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• 2016

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.2 no.2 s.4
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• pp.11-15
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• 2002

Formerly, it was called a tent and now, it is called membrane structure. If saying a tent, it imagines the tent of Bedouin, Mongolia and North American Indian. It became clear from the excavated wall painting that have been covered with the retractable roof of the canvas on the auditorium at the amphitheater in Pompeii and became a topic. These tents were made of the animal skins or fabric woven with the flax plants, and these tents are still used. However, if saying membrane material at present, it says the one to have applied a coating resin to the textile. Because the base fabric of membrane material is a woven fabric, the relation between the stress and the strain is different to the direction of the weaving thread. Moreover, the tensile force must always occur in the membrane surface. From these reasons, because the membrane structure corresponds to the particular building material and the construction method about the Building Standard Law, it must be examined specially that the membrane structural building have the same or any more safety as the provisions which was set to the Building Standard Law. Therefore, the technical standards about the membrane structural building became indispensable. In the paper, the kinds of the membrane materials, which are used for the membrane structural buildings, and technical standards process of the creating for the membrane structure buildings are introduced. Lastly, some of the soccer stadiums for 2002 FIFA World Cup KOREA/JAPAN which be covered with the roof of the membrane structures are presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.35-51
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• 2020

To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.