• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.15-24
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• 2013

Chil-sa head-wear excavated in Buksandong of Ulsan is precious relic with historical, cultural, social and artistic values because it shows head-wear shape at the period of Goryeo dynasty with the invaluable worth in the field of Korean traditional costumes. Also, this excavated head-wear provides the empirical information about Goryeo dynasty which has relatively insufficient remains. The purposes of this study are to recover and maintain the original states of the artifacts from various environmental factors and then to preserve the materials from rapid decomposition. As a result, the original shape of the head-wear from Goryeo dynasty can be conserved and through the material and structure analysis it is found out that the head-wear's surface structure is composed of silk(紗) and the ground structure is made by bamboo(竹絲).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.27-34
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• 2004

Jang Heung Lim's is a nephew's wife of Kim Duk Ryung, who had been served as a general of Chosun dynasty. When her Tomb was removed to another places there were excavated some articles such as six Korean traditional costume, Korean socks, Korean shoes (Mituri) and so on. The unearthed costume was designated as a monentous folk materials, No.112, and placed on Gwangju folklore museum. At that time, the mending work in the lost part of costume was not implemented. Only an act of textile conservation was worked. In the article, we go through the mending principles and mending methods in damaged parts of costume. First, the mending principles on the damaged costume are as follows : (1) minimize the repaired parts, (2) mend the only damaged parts, (3) use the same color and cloth as that of original ones, (4) use the appropriated stitching method (5) act the fixed framework in case of missing a outer cloth. Second, the mending method related to the damaged part are as follows : (1) the repairing method in the bodice and sleeve part of costume, (2) the repairing method in the hem of steeve, (3) the repairing method in the collar of costume, (4) the repairing method in the armpit part of costume, (5) the repairing method in the connecting parts between one and another width of Korean traditional long skirt. With this article, we wish that the repairing method in the cultural costume will be developed scientifically and specified efficiently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.31-36
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• 2007

There are several factors in the degradation of textiles. The crucial factors in textile weakening are humidity, dust, smoke, sunlight, microorganisms and so on. Especially silk fabrics are more susceptible to microorganisms than other fabrics, because they are mainly consisted of proteins. In this study, we investigated the activities for degrading casein and silk fibers with 2 strains, Bacillus cereus TX1 and Pseudomonas fluorescens TX 2, isolated from domestic museums. They were compared to those of standard control strains, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus, usually used for the antibiotic test of fabrics. The caseinolytic activities of K. pneumoniae and S. aureus were higher than those of isolated strains. But in the cases of silk fiber degrading, B. cereus TX 1 showed the highest activity on both silk 1 and silk 2. Therefore, caseinolytic activities were not coincident with the activity to degrade silk fibers. All strains degraded silk 1(strength retention 100%) better than silk 2(strength retention 50%). It means that bacteria mainly participate in the early stage of degrading silk fabrics, but as time goes by, the importance of bacteria for degrading silk fabrics would decreased. Even though the importance of bacteria may decrease, controlling bacterial activity is necessary to preserve historic silk fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.796-811
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• 2010

Research materials of Korean traditional shoes have so far been mainly literary explanations or plane pictures expressed on the basis of the explanations and photographs of incomplete forms of relics excavated and it makes us have difficulty in observing them visually and producing products with them by design application. This project is to establish database of literal data of Korean traditional shoes and visual data using 3D in order to make the foundation of developing culture industry contents using Korean traditional shoes. According to the initial research plan. first. it analyzed and arranged the Korean traditional shoes into period. sex and function as the research goals of the first year. categorized the form. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes and then database of the materials was performed with text. Second. visual image materials including forms. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes were established as database with scanner. digital camera and computer 2D. Results of such a database will be able to be used as important materials which can be the foundation of culture industry contents development of traditional shoes and be the materials for developing digital culture contents of traditional shoes and teaching Korean traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.511-519
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop fashion cultural product designs in order to promote the Iksan region by using motifs from the Mireuksaji, Iksan's most representative archeological site of Baekje culture. The fashion cultural products designs developed by applying cultural resources can be effective at enhancing our cultural identity. Adobe Illustrator CS4 and Adobe Photoshop CS4 were used to reconstruct motifs from the Sumakse tiles and the bronze horse figure in the Mireuksaji Museum. The Iksan brand slogan "Amazing Iksan" was combined with the bronze horse to emphasize the local cultural identity. The motifs from the Mireuksaji were modified and stylized to make different patterns and these patterns were repeated in various ways to be applied to necktie and scarf designs. The motifs for necktie designs were double-row chrysanthemum tiles and phoenix tiles, and the motifs for scarf designs were the double-row lotus tiles and the bronze horse artifacts. Different colorways were chosen and the value of each color was displayed in the CMYK percentages. As a result, eight necktie designs and twelve scarf designs were proposed. The motifs and patterns developed in this study can be used to introduce Iksan's distinct history as the birthplace of Baekje culture. It is also expected that the result of this study can advance the promotion of Korean traditional culture internationally.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 2018

Herein, we present the results of the analysis of a lacquer coating fragment excavated from 'Daesungdong No.88 tomb of Gimhae'. We observed the fragment with an optical microscope and used scanning electron microscopy-energy dispersive spectroscopy (SEM-EDS) as well as Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy analysis to determine the structure of the lacquer coating and the technique used for coating. The sample was identified as a Moksim Jophy Lacquer. It is made from wood, painted with textile fabric and coated with soil clay. The SEM-EDS analysis revealed residues of bone meal at the bottom part of the sheath layer. The incorporation of bone meal in a lacquer coating layer is one of the characteristics of the Han Dynasty, and was also found in the Nangnang Region and the United Silla Dynasty. Inside the sword sheath is a specific adherent structure of silk fabric, the same type of leguminous plant found in another sword sheath excavated from the Eastern Han-tomb of Xi'an. Results constitute the latest information about lacquer ware found in the southern district of the Korean peninsula. Moreover, the findings shed light on an international relationship with Kumkwan-Kaya where the sword sheath was produced.