• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

본 연구는 출토직물의 세척을 위한 천연계면활성제 선정을 위하여 그 특성과 세척성을 알아보는데 목적이 있다. 이를 위해 대조군으로 합성계면활성제인 SDS (Sodium dodecyl sulfate)와 천연계면활성제 중 LES (Disodium laurethsulfosuccinate), apple wash (Sodium cocoyl apple amino acids), tea saponin (Saponin), cornacopa (Decyl glucoside), coco betain (Cocamidopropyl betaine) 등 5종을 선별하여 계면활성제의 FT-IR (Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy) 분석으로 구조를 확인하고, pH와 표면장력 측정으로 특성을 파악하였다. 인공오염포 4종과 출토직물편에 대한 세척성 실험을 수행하였다. 그 결과 인공오염포에 대해서는 apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa가 세척성에 있어서 SDS만큼 좋은 것으로 나타났으며 출토직물편에 대해서는 tea ssponin과 coco betain의 세척성이 좋은 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 세제의 안전성과 세척성을 감안할 때 천연계면활성제 중 tea saponin이 출토복식 세척을 위한 천연계면활성제로써 적합한 것으로 사료되었다.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 복식
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• 제51권8호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2001

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.139-150
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• 2006

Eighty-four fabrics, all weaved from silk, were excavated from Kim Yeoon's tomb. They comprised 51 pieces of silk tabby, 13 of satin damask, 17 of twill, and 2 of complex gauze, 1 of damask on tabby. The fabrics featured high quality of satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 3-end complex gauze. The names of the fabrics used in this article are based on literature sources and include silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby(紬), filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), and twill(綾).

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.338-347
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• 2006

Due to the complex environment in the ground, most of excavated costumes undergo deterioration and color change. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color or gray fabrics of excavated costumes, bleaching would be required. Excavated historical costumes are very delicate in nature, therefore, special care is needed in bleaching process. Several bleaching agents were selected and applied to the control cotton fabric and pre-deteriorated cotton fabrics to examine the change of color and physical properties after bleaching. A dual bleaching using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride showed the superior bleaching effect to the other bleaching agents. The strength of pre-deteriorated fabrics slightly increased after dual bleaching. The six historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim's nephew's wife were dual bleached. They became remarkably cleaned and brightened. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. By microscopic investigation, it is found that costumes did not show the damage after treatment. In conclusion, it is possible to bleach historical textiles without damage using appropriate bleaching agents like hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.