• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.161-170
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to find the reasonable plan for the restoration method through the practical repair of excavated costume. The minimal repair only without adding the physical force as far as possible after investigating the state of excavated costume has been progressed in case of excavated costume since it is already degraded and weak due to the characteristics of organic matter at the moment when it is excavated. Moreover, it has been restored as the following course; The restoration has been applied according to the state of excavated costume with the maximum stability by classifying items capable of being restored considering the fabric state of excavated costume. The drawn thread from the weak in strength and the refined thread of the Juasa(simple gauze) or the light degraded silk thread has been used in case of thread for restoration. The cotton fabrics has been used in the fabric of cellulose system, the Juasa or the silk has been used in the silk depending on the kind of fabric in connection with the support fabric, some parts have been dyed with Alnus firma fruit and the persimmon, has been repaired by using the dyed fabric with the clove for the purpose of mothproof-antibacterial treatment. The method to repair has been carried out by classifying according to the state of damage and the way of formation of costume. The needlework method suitable for the part and state of damage by using the basting, the broad-stitching, backstitch, the blind stitch and the hemming stitch in connection with the needlework method for restoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.61-70
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• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the efficiency of four different cleaning method of silk and to fabrics, which were excavated from the sixteenth century tombs. The four cleaning methods were hand washing in water and hand washing in solvent, washing in ultrasonic cleaner, and using of ultrasonic gun after washing in ultrasonic cleaner. The following is the result of the experiment: ㆍBoth silk and jute fabrics shrank the most after hand-wash in water. This cleaning method decreased their thickness the most but changed their strength the least. However, the color of the fabric changed the most after had-wash in water. This washing method might discolor the dyed fabric, so one must check the condition of the fabric thoroughly before washing it. ㆍThe weight and the thickness of the fabric changed little after ultrasonic cleaning. This cleaning method, therefore. is less efficient than hand-water-wash. The use of ultrasonic gun after ultrasonic wash for partial cleansing enhanced the efficiency a little. Nevertheless, this method left stain around the area where the gun was used, and the injected water could damage the fabric. ㆍThe excavated fabric became softer in the cleaning process as the dirt was washed away. In both cases of silk and jute fabrics cleaning, solvent made the fabric softer than water. Washed in solvent, the fabric did not swell. But water penetrated to the fiber during the cleaning process and made the fabric swell. When the water evaporates, the swollen fiber structure collapses and the fabric become stiff. Ultrasonic wash did not cause much change in the flexibility of the fabric, for this method does not remove the dirt as effectively as the other method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.