• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.430-439
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• 2020

This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Aging tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO₂ were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.187-196
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• 2020

In this study, we tried to reproduce some of the cosmetics from the Joseon period based on the previous analysis of the cosmetics excavated from the tomb of Princess Hwahyup. The two cosmetic powders, the white powder consisting of lead(II) carbonate and talc and the cinnabar-based red powder, were reproduced according to the records from the 6th to the 19th centuries. We also studied the degradation profiles of these reproduced samples by comparison of XRD patterns. Basic lead carbonate of the reproduced white powder turned into lead(II) carbonate, while the reproduced red powder showed different crystalline structure from the excavated cosmetics even after the degradation. Results of the evaluation tests showed that these reproduced cosmetics fell short of the standards set for the modern-day cosmetics, but based on their mixing ratio, the spreadability and oil absorption capacity of some samples of the reproduced white powder were found to be similar to those of the modern cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2002

This article is to study the ancient Korean make-up based on ancient men's and women's facial decoration. The adornment is mainly about make-up, but I didn't employ make-up in this article on the ground that it isn't an appropriate concept in men's case. The study on the ancient Korean make-up has been conducted on the basis of Goguryeo mural paintings excavated in the tombs. Contrary to the Baekje and the Silla Kingdoms, Goguryeo women's make-up carne to fashion like China. The Goguryeo mural paintings depicted women's make-up which painted their faces white and lined on the eyebrows to make them raise toward their foreheads after removing their own eyebrows. They outlined their mouths smaller than their own and, in some occasions, applied make-up differently on the upper lip and the lower lip. As the time passed by, women applied the blusher, which attests to the fact that make-up of those days was considerably developed. Unlike women, men didn't put on cosmetics but they grew beard as a symbol of adults. The beard had a diversity in shape such as goat-shaped and fan-shaped beards. It can be understood that women's make-up was applied as a manifestation of adults like men's growing beards.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.354-360
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• 2021

Background: Protopanaxatriol (PPT) is a secondary intestinal metabolite of ginsenoside in ginseng. Although the effects of PPT have been reported in various diseases including cancer, diabetes and inflammatory diseases, the skin protective effects of PPT are poorly understood. Methods: HaCaT cells were treated with PPT in a dose-dependent manner. mRNA and protein levels which related to skin barrier and hydration were detected compared with retinol. Luciferase assay was performed to explore the relative signaling pathway. Western blot was conducted to confirm these pathways and excavated further signals. Results: PPT enhanced the expression of filaggrin (FLG), transglutaminase (TGM)-1, claudin, occludin and hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS) -1, -2 and -3. The mRNA expression levels of FLG, TGM-1, HAS-1 and HAS-2 were suppressed under NF-κB inhibition. PPT significantly augmented NF-κB-luc activity and upregulated Src/AKT/NF-κB signaling. In addition, PPT also increased phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) ERK, JNK and p38 and upstream MAPK activators (MEK and MKK). Furthermore, transcriptional activity of AP-1 and CREB, which are downstream signaling targets of MAPK, was enhanced by PPT. Conclusion: PPT improves skin barrier function and hydration through Src/AKT/NF-κB and MAPK signaling. Therefore, PPT may be a valuable component for cosmetics or treating skin disorders.