• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.29-42
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• 2000

It has long been believed that European clothing style has been developed independently without the Eastern influence. This deductive assumption has limited the understanding about the contents of Eastern clothing style, and there has only been limited studies on the Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern clothing to be considered as merely exotic and relatively unimportant. Therefore, a thorough study and understanding of the contents of the Eastern clothing style and its influence on the western world is very much needed. The objective of this study is to see how the clothing of the Islamic Osman Turk had influenced Europe during the Gothic and Renaissance period and to find the relationship between the development of the East and West clothing style. This study also has the purpose of re-evaluating the importance of the Eastern culture in the present multi-cultural global era of the 21 st century. The most typical clothing of the Osman Turk was kaftan and other traditional clothing included narrow pants and head dress. Through trade, war and other channels, the Turkish influence changed the styles and colors of previous European fashion that can be characterized by the simple designs of tunic and mantle into a dynamic dress culture. Cotehardie adopted the styles of the Turkish kaftan. The new weaving techniques enabled new clothing such as Pourpoint, Houpplelande made of brocade and velvet with elegant patterns come into European fashion. Also, head dresses, which before were not used except for religious reasons were widely worn. As such, Turkish fashion gave significant influence on the development of European clothing style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.891-909
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.368-386
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• 1994

The primary purpose of this study was to identify the diversity and embellishment of American Indian clothing and relationship between culture and clothing in American Indian Culture Areas. After the introduction of European material culture, change in American Indian clothing was conducted. The result of the Study as follows: 1. The most influential factors affecting the diversity of American Indian clothing were environmental factors. Climates and geographical features, Raw material were reflected in clothing style and clothing material in each culture Area. 2. Economic situation and life style were shown to be influential to clothing development. The best known instance of this was greatly elaborated clothing and personal adornment of the Plains who had higher stand of life and nomadic life style. 3. Religious concepts were important factors influencing American Indian clothing. Indian tribes had different ritual performance they used particular motifs in clothing. Clothing, such as "ghost shirt", Apache medicine shirt and Pueblo ceremonial clothing, served hidden pur- poses. 4. Techenology was another factor identified in this study as influencing American Indian clothing. Especially, weaving skills of Southwest played a great role in textile development. Pueblo "manta" and Navaho "bil" were famous for Indian costume. 5. European material culture allowed great change of traditional native Indian clothing. American Indian had new material, new styles, new concept of clothing. 6. American Indian, although Indian applicated European trade goods, was actually quite conservative in retaining traditional designs and modes of decoration. Asthetics and traction of American Indian were reflected in American Indian clothing.d in American Indian clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.890-909
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• 2022

This study explores the types of clothing imported from Japan during the port-opening era and investigates the characteristics of import trade related to these clothing products. This is a literature study based on trade statistics data and books on Western clothing published in Japan during the Meiji period. Research findings are as follows: clothing products imported from Japan were divided into 6 types: 1) clothing, 2) undergarments, 3) shirts, 4) waterproof coats, 5) European-style clothing, and 6) nightgowns. "Clothing" is a unified name for any kind of garment, appearing in import records only from 1877 to 1884. Undergarments and shirts were imported from 1884. Waterproof coats were imported only in 1886 and 1898. European-style clothing and nightgowns were imported from 1902. In the total import of clothes, the proportion of clothing was the highest (48.0%), followed by undergarments (41.3%) and shirts (10.6%), while the ratio of nightgowns and raincoats was almost 0%. During the port-opening period, the change in the import value of clothes did not show a continuous increase, but rather showed a large stepwise increase over the course of several years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.5
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• pp.444-454
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• 2001

The purpose of this paper was to identify and compare the underlying design theory of contemporary European and Japanese fashion designers by using the qualitative research method of grounded theory developed by Glaser and Strauss (1967) and Glaser (1978). In this research, four fashion sites-Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo-were selected. The researcher stayed in each site for a period of two to three weeks for the purpose of data collection. A total of 60 fashion designers, educators, students and journalists were interviewed. 53 open-ended design questionnaires were returned by fashion designers and students. 19 on-site observations of fashion designers and educators were done. Grounded theories of fashion designers were synthesized from in-depth interviews, participant observations and questionnaire surveys of fashion designers, students and educators. The results of theory-building research suggested that there were significant differences between the grounded design theories of European and Japanese fashion designers due to their various cultural contexts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.76-97
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review the influence of Ukiyo-e on the design of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century and the expression of the design of Kosode design in Edo-era. We collected data from the actual study of visiting Museums and other theories and visual materials through literature review. Then, we analyzed the data. The result came out that Ukiyo-e, which is the genre painting of Edo-era, provided the new vision and the new way of expression to the European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century. In the same way, the result also indicated that Ukiyo-e similarly influenced on the design of Kosode. For example, the study showed that the patterns of Kosode, such as flower, bridge, fun, wave, Lotus flower, stripe, oval, plaid, were used in the works of European artists in the $19^{th}$ century. The Ukiyo-e styles include Kan Bun style, Dan-Gawari style, Back facing style, Two-Section Segmentation style, and Folding screen style, with the identity of Japan and Japanese unique nature and landscapes. Thus, this study proved the design of Kosode to be the frontier of both European and Japanese arts, by examining Ukioyo-e's plastic characteristics, its composition & arrangements, and its subjects & objects which were samely revealed in Kosode design and European Art in nineteenth century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.20-30
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of European middle class, ethos to costume. This study is concerned with historic situation about enlightment and French revolution, and the change process of costume before and after the French Revolution. In order to investigate the relationship, this studies include the phenomenon of costume in the basis of thoughts of the age (enlightment), political event (French revolution) and social system (middle classes). The Influence of enlightment to costume of man and children were which emphasized practical aspect. Children costume was developed independently from costume of adult before French revolution. French revolution played a roll in silhouette, color, texture of costume for man. Especially pantalons which names Sans-culotte generalized as modern clothing for man. Women freed from corset because of the influence of neo-classicism for a while. However, costume of woman did not change much because women were excluded from of enlightment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.39-49
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• 1998

When considering clothing of the North American Indians, it is important to understand historical background of the North American Indians. With the coming of he Europeans, the North American Indians adopted new materials of clothing and ornamentation and added European elements to their own dresses. New materials appeared in textiles, beadswork, and metalwork. The introduction of the "true" loom and steel needle by the Spanish led in the New World to the development of a weaving culture. Cotton cloth, in calico prints, gingham, or plain were made into dresses, and colorful applique, patchwork designs adapted from the white women. Cloth made an immediate impact, replacing skin that is so time-consuming in preparation. Glass beads, pony beads, seed beads and ribbons were used to create adornment Indian clothing. Brass, tin and silver were used among Indian metalworkers to make some ring, necklace, bracelet, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.525-545
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to assess the sustainability of laundry practices among Korean households in comparison with European households. A total of 329 responses were collected through an online survey and analyzed using SPSS. Detergent dosing, use of fabric softener, prewashing, rinsing, washing programs, and washing temperatures of Korean households were not optimal for sustainability. Only 11.2% of respondents followed dosage instructions while the majority based on load size. Use of fabric enhancer, prewashing, and rinsing were frequent. Cotton 40℃ was the most frequently used program (81.5%) while eco and cold wash programs were among the least (1.5%). In terms of laundry sorting, load size, drying, and ironing, more sustainable actions were reported. Laundry was often sorted by color, machines were commonly filled, and clothes tended to be air-dried and not excessively ironed. Gender was the primary socio-demographic factor denoting sustainable habits, with males being more attentive to instructions and care labels than females. European households, however, were more sustainable in all areas except for frequent ironing, and education level and employment status were significant factors affecting sustainable practices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.726-739
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• 2010

This study investigates and compares the changes in ethnic fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of ethnic trends according to historical trends. Data were collected from 59 volumes of "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 407 words and these were condensed into three periods according to the decade (1980-1989, 1990-1999, and 2000-2009). The selected words were classified into five sub-themes according to previous research definitions such as Asian look, European look, American look, African look, and Oceanic look. The results are as follows. First, ethnic fashion was highly presented in the 1990s and 1980s, and decreased in the 2000s; of note is that the Asian look appeared more in the 1990s. Second, ethnic fashion showed a higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1980s and S/S seasons in the 2000s, while both seasons had a higher frequency in the 1990s. The sub-themes of coexistence were presented 26seasons out of 59 seasons. The coexistence of the Asian-European look was evident in the 1980s and 2000s, while the sub-themes coexistence was more diverse in the 1990s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of ethnic fashion demonstrated the differences by decade. In particular, various fabrics and patterns appeared in the 1990s.