• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Hwai-ot is the embroidered bridal red robe that represents the beauty of Korean traditional costume. As there are very few remains of Hwal-ot that are pass to date, the study on Hwal-ot has been limited to the Hwal-ot of Princess Bok-on and some civilian Hwal-ot relics. In this study, I tried to perform a positive research on Hwal-ot of the latter Joseon dynasty by inspecting these Hwal-ot remains housed at Field Museum of Chicago. This study has its meaning in the fact that it tried to illuminate diverse features and beautiful formation of the Korean traditional Hwal-ot by comparing those possessed by overseas museums with the ones in Korean museums. Number 33157 Hwal-ot has very unique pattern with both embroidery and gold imprint decorated. It has less embroidery than the Princess Bok-on's Hwal-ot but has much diverse gold imprint patterns. Other four Hwal-ot remains, other than the number 33157, have similar characteristics with the Hwal-ot housed at Changdeok-gung, whose reproductions are also kept at Dankook University Muesum and Ewha Womans University Museum, which makes it possible to deduce that they have typical characteristics of the Royal Hwal-ot of the latter Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.7
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• pp.105-112
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• 2020

This paper presents an investigation into the development of a fabric electronics based smart bag for festival users of the 2029 generation with customizable tech flaps (music media control/ LED animated graphic functions) based on the application of traditional Korean patterns and goblin patterns in an electric circuit. The investigator took into consideration functional and design strategies to enable custom service according to users' tastes and situations. Based on these considerations, a customizable smart bag platform was proposed in a detachable module based on a computer embroidery machine. The study is significant in that it developed a product that is different from the old PCB smart products in hard form and proposed a new business model.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.64-73
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• 2015

This paper examines the characteristics of Hungarian women's costumes under the Reign of the Habsburg Empire in the $19^{th}$ Century. Since the beginning of the $19^{th}$ century, the Habsburg Empire inflicted strong oppression on Hungary. Under the influence of the European upper class, exaggerated and sumptuous costumes were fashionable in the Hungarian Aristocracy. They preferred blouses decorated with colorful embroidery, pleated sleeves, gorgeous beads and lace, long pleated skirts with velvet borders, corsets decorated with delicate embroidery, coats adorned with lace, and capes. However, Hungarian nationalists protested against the Habsburg Empire's oppression; consequently, Hungarian national costumes expressed a sense of resistance and solidarity. The results of the study are as follows. The Hungarian women's costumes were different from women's costumes of the Habsburg Empire in regards to headdress, bodice, apron, pattern and shoes. The Hungarian women's headdress consists of the parta and veil. The bodice is richly adorned with colorful embroidery and differs from skirts in color and material. The Hungarian women's apron is distinct from the Habsburg Empire as a unique Hungarian item. Finally, Hungarian costumes are characterized by the Oriental pattern and short boots with metal heels.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.139-156
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of traditional Korean patterns appearing on fashion collections from 1990 to 2005. Traditional Korean patterns have been used as an important element to express a Korean image since the 1990s. Frequently used patterns included several kinds of geometric patterns, plant patterns(flower, peony, Four Gracious Plants), and Chinese character patterns. Specifically, since the 2000s, animal patterns such as tiger, Chinese phoenix, and giraffe which were not often used, plant patterns such as arabesque, peony, and flower, and a variety of Chinese character patterns appeared. For the expression techniques, while embroidery and printing was often used in the 1990s, they became varied into printing, beading, embroidery, gold and silver leaf, and hand painting after 2000 as a result of designers' active attempts. The aesthetic characteristics of fashion design with its focus on traditional patterns were analyzed. First, Chinese character patterns and phoenix pattern which were mainly used for a court suit, and show the excellence and unique originality of Korean culture. Second, traditional Korean patterns directly and indirectly imply symbolistic significance of lucky sign and illustrate the use of various lucky sign patterns. Third, traditional Korean patterns such as arabesque or peony were expressed by colorful embroidery to add decorative beauty. Finally, traditional Korean patterns reflect a naturalistic worldview and are completed finished as the design.

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.9
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• pp.34-45
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• 2012

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.127-135
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• 2003

Woon Kyun was one of the shoulder cloth worn by both men and women during Won(원) Dynasty. The distinet features of Woon Kyun was that it had cloud-form embroidered on chest, back and both shoulders respectively and the front of it was opened. It also glitterinyly decorated with five different colored embroidery inserted with gold thread. 26 Woon Kyun out of 59 men demonstrated on the miniature of ≪Jipsa≫ were selected and analyzed according to the historical periods, class and sex. The results of the study showed that there was little change on its forms and patterns and people wore it without specific differentiation. The common patterns of embroidery used were various kinds of animals and plants, however, plants seemed to be more preferred.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2009

Hakka is a very special sub-ethnic group in China, which was formed during several migrations in Chinese war history. Today the majority of Hakka people, living in the boundary between Jiangxi, Guangdong, and Fujian province, still keep a quite old custom and culture. The bell hat for children is a unique and splendid illustration. We have imposed researches and studies in local area a lot and interviewed the local crafts-women to get to know more about bell hat. We are trying to describe the decorations on the bell hat, silver items and embroidery respectively, and then give an overall analysis of Chinese auspicious culture that the motifs of decorations have contained.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.40-43
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• 2001

Du-Dou was one of the Chinese costumes worn mostly by women and children. It is the equivalence of modern brassieres or under wear. While small in size, du-dous were popularly worn by many ethnic groups and in many regions in China. The embroidery on du-dous has attracted major attention recently, due to its functional and artistic aspects. The design, floral pattern, stitching technique, and color combination and distribution clearly demonstrate the practice of Chinese folk art and reflect the essence of Chinese life style. Among the three major ethic groups of Taiwan-the Fukiens, Hakkas, and Taiwan aboriginals, each group has its distinctive du-dou. The purpose of this study is to investigate and compare the similarities and differences of the embroidery on du-dou among the three ethnic groups in Taiwan, and furthermore, to make recommendations for the modern du-dous in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.82-87
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• 2003

In this paper, the color matching algorithm is Proposed for stitching machine. The matched embroidery color threads are selected by using the proposed algorithm from a computer files which is designed on the computer or scanned from the drawings designed by an artist. The proposed algorithm finds the best matching nearest colors from the given embroidery color threads . The multiple candidates owing to have the equal distance in the CIE color space are further processed to find nearest dominant color. The color dithering method will be useful for reproducing original design with high fidelity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.