• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.63-74
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• 2021

Objectives :This paper analyzes the newly discovered manuscripts of the Sanghanjijangdo(傷寒指掌圖). A bibliographic study was carried out to examine the contents and the background of publication. Methods : First, a bibliographical analysis of the Joseon text was conducted. Next, the contents of the composition were compared with the Yuanand early Ming publications of China. Results : 1. The Joseon publication was published based on the original publication from the Yuan period. The Sanghanjijangdo has been cited in several medical texts from early Joseon such as the Euibangyuchwi and Hyangyakjipseongbang. 3. The background for publication of the Sanghanjijangdo is as following. First, it is an introductory text for beginners of Shanghan[cold damage] studies. Second, its contents do not conflict with the specialized Shanghan text that was used as the textbook for the royal physician examination. Third, it contains many Shanghan formulas that could be composed of domestic drugs only. Conclusions : The Sanghanjijangdo could be described as an introductory text for beginners of Shanghan studies that contributed to the expansion of the base of Shanghan studies in 15c mid-Joseon. Publication of this book clearly shows that Shanghan studies in early Joseon was practiced within the scopes of practicality and localization of medicinals.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2013

This study tried to get a deeper understanding of the characteristics of raincoats in Joseon by searching through historic records: the Annals of Joseon(朝鮮王朝實錄), personal or official records, paintings, etc. The time range of the research covers the entire period of Joseon. There were two prime types of raincoats: Saui, a cyperus coat, and Yusam(油衫), an oilcloth coat. The study proceeded as follows: 1) Identifying the people who wore the coats as well as the time period, 2) Figuring out the shapes and materials of those raincoats, 3) Postulating the reasons for the upward trend in popularity of a certain type as well as the eventual downward trend. Those research efforts revealed the following: 1) In the early Joseon, from royals to commoners, people wore Saui. But as time passed valuation about Saui might have become degraded. Eventually it became regarded as a farmer's smock in the 19th Century. 2) Yusam might not have been worn in the early Joseon. It was developed and spread after the middle of 17th Century. It was for soldiers and nobles, especially travelers, but by the end of the Joseon period, it was also used by commoners. 3) Saui was made of cyperus, but Yusam was made of oiled paper, cotton or silk. Those shapes were similar to a Western cloak. The analysis of the research findings led to following conclusions: 1) Around the middle of Joseon, people started to wear Yusam after the introduction of a Chinese version of it. 2) Yusam might have become popular in Joseon because of the social and cultural implications. At that time, people had pride in their culture and thought that real experiences and travels were important. 3) As people became fond of Yusam more, then Saui's popularity fell.

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.554-572
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• 2016

This study is a comparative study on a cookbook published in 1900s titled "Jusikbangmun", one of collections of the National Central Library, along with other cookery books in Joseon Dynasty in the late 1800s to early 1900s. "Jusikbangmun" consists of 51 recipes, including 45 kinds of staple foods and six kinds of brews. More than 60% of the recipes deal with staple dishes and side-dishes, whereas the rest deal with ceremonial dishes and drinking. The "Jusikbangmun" applies a composite method of cooking from boiling and steaming to seasoning with oil spices. The ingredients are largely meats rather than vegetables, which is distinguished other cookery books in the Joseon Dynasty. Only "Jusikbangmun" deals with such peculiar recipes as 'Kanmagitang', 'Bookyengsumyentang', 'Jeryukpyen', 'Yangsopyen', and 'Dalgihye'. It is estimated that "Jusikbangmun" was published around the 1900s based on findings that "Jusikbangmun" is more similar with "Buinpilgi" and "Joseonyorijebeop" in the early 1900s than with "Kyuhapchongseo", "Siyijenseo" and "Jusiksieui" in 1800s. Therefore, "Jusikbangmun" is a valuable resource, we can use understand the food culture of the late Joseon period.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2015

Objectives : The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty has plenty of articles as primary historical records. The Korean medical historiy researches have also been driven from The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. About public services in Joseon dynasty related to medicine, We rarely know persons in public services, titles, levels and so on. Methods : I focused on The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty to research the titles of person in public services in early Joseon dynasty. I found 33 persons related to medicine and reorganized 21 persons who had titles. Results : I got 10 titles of public medical services and more than 15 titles of public non-medical services, which were received according to their medical services and 6 grades. Conclusions : I concluded that there were much more titles of public medical services than what we had already known and several titles and grades of public non-medical services, which were received according to their medical services.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제28권
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• pp.89-108
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• 2022

국립중앙박물관 소장 금속활자는 약 50만자로 앞서 연구된 조선 금속활자에 기초해 갑인자(甲寅字)활자 33점, 을해자(乙亥字)병용한글활자 29점 등 조선 전기 금속활자 62점의 형태 조사, 비중을 측정하고 조성성분을 바탕으로 통계분석하였다. 갑인자활자 33점, 을해자병용한글활자 24점은 2성분계 청동(구리-주석)([A]그룹), 을해자병용 한글활자 5점 중 4점은 3성분계 청동(구리-주석-납)([B]그룹) 1점은 2성분계 청동(구리-주석)([C]그룹)으로 주석 함량이 높다. 본 연구에서 다수의 활자 성분 통계분석을 토대로 조선 후기 임진자(壬辰字)활자와 비교한 결과, 후기 활자는 구리 함량이 낮고 아연, 납 함량이 높은 특징이 있어 조선 전기와 후기 활자의 분류 가능성을 확인하였다.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

A chronological classification of Sangbok(상복) and Sibok(시복) for officers in Joseon Dynasty is proposed in this paper. The classification results in four distinct periods according to the usage of Sangbok and Sibok as well as their colers and naming: 1) the mixed usage period, 2) the usage-differentiation period, 3) the name-differentiation period, and 4) name-reversal period. During the mixed usage period which lasted until the early 15th century, Sangbok and Sibok were used with no distinction. In the usage-differentiation period, the King Sejong first made a regulation on the use of colors of Dal-lyung according to the occasion and black colored uniforms were used only for daily cabinet meetings. In the 16th century, the names of Sangbok and Sibok began to be used distinctively: Sangbok for formal clothing in black color and Sibok for ordinary clothing in pink color This period is defined as the name-differentiation period in this paper. In the name-reversal period f·hick begun around the 17th century, the usages as well as the colors of Sangbok and Sibok are totally reversed because of some confusions of the understanding on the previous government publications. However, the distinction of formal clothing and ordinary clothing remained.