• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.7
• /
• pp.1128-1139
• /
• 2009

This study is on the works of Hussein Chalayan that is an expression of his idea and abstract concepts such as culture, history, time, space, nature, and humanity. The perspective of E. H. Gombrich is studied to understand the works of Chalayan who is the one of representative fashion designers in the present age. The 'schema and correction' process of E. H. Gombrich provides a suitable interpretation frame that considers the variety of works of art and the deconstruction of genre in the after 20th century. Hussein Chalayan attempts to combine clothes with other territories to show the spirit as materiality. He expresses the clothes that speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space, and investigates the existence of human beings. Hussein Chalayan poses an endless question about the existence of human beings. He has put a question about the relationship of the human being and time, space, history, and nature. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works makes him the representative designer of the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.5
• /
• pp.115-134
• /
• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.1
• /
• pp.60-76
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the viewpoint on the 'clothes' as a part of art works which has the kunstwollen(artistic will) and the philosophy of a creator rather than just an outfit. For the literary research, this study investigates the history of Iconology and the E. Panofsky's theory. In order to make up for the limitation of Panofsky's iconology, applies the theories of H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood is selected because her fashion works have been mentioned as the artistic pieces by many fashion critics or the presses. Also Westwood has different social and cultural contexts which based on the periodic background, social influences and cultural actualities. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, in order to read the symbolic meaning, the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion designer's works properly, the systematized interpretation method is necessary. Second, the creative works of Vivienne Westwood have been influenced by the various external elements. Especially her national background and identity are the main elements which have governed her creation. Third, Vivienne Westwood creates her works not just to wear but to incorporate the ideology and the philosophy of herself. She expresses the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness through her works. Forth, Vivienne Westwood pursues the communication between the human being and the world. Fifth, fashion makes various attempts to combine with different artistic fields. The 21st century fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trials and combinations. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.