• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.40-46
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• 1985

구핵부가형 반응성 염료인 C.I. Reactivo Blue 19와 산성 염료인 C.I. Acid Blue 138로 각각 견을 평형염착시켜 온도 및 pH에 따른 염착량 및 고착량을 구하여 각 조건에서의 염착거동을 비교 검토하였다. 1) 염착은 pH 및 온도가 낮을수록 양염료 모두 증가하였고, 반응성 염료인 경우, pH 8.5, 7$0^{\circ}C$에서 최대 고착량을 나타내었다. 2) 산성인 경우 반응성 염료는 산성 염료와 같은 거동을 나타내었다. 3) 산성 및 반응성 염료인 KL은 pH의 감소에 따라 증가하였고, Kp는 전자인 경우 증가, 후자인 경우 감소하였다. 4) 온도가 상승할수록 양염료 모두 KL은 감소하였고, 표준친화력은 증가하였다. 5) 산성 및 반응성 염료의 염착반응은 발열반응이고 표준엔트로피는 정의 값을 나타내었다. 6) 강산성측에서는 산성 반응성 염료 모두 Langmuir형 미착과 Nernst형 미착의 합으로 나타낼 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.26-33
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• 1996

The berberine from Amur cork tree is natural yellow dye and can be extracted more easily by water. The berberine is basic dye and was extracted at 90-95$^{\circ}C$. We have obtained the following results; 1. K/S value in the abstract of dye was increased by time-elapsing, but the reasonable time was between 90-120min. 2. The reasonable weight of Amur cork tree in the abstract of dye was between 10-20 g/L. 3. We obtained various colors in case of using mordants. ―In case of 10g/L and 20g/l, the reasonable value of mordant was 5-10%(owf). and in case of using tannic acid and $FeSO_{4}$ we could obtain high K/S value. 4. &{\lambda}_{max}& of UV spectra was shown 420nm. 5. Genarally fastness of drycleaning indicated more than grade 4. but it of perspiration was more stable in acid than alkali.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

This is a study regarding the development of cultural products with applied traditional Saekdong-image. The objective of this study is to develop unique cultural products which combine traditional korean images with modern feel by utilizing traditional Saekdong-image. Saekdong has been an object of deep attachment and regarded as a tool for expressing korean images from ancient times to the present. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong, which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Approximately 24 pieces of cultural products that can be used in daily life were created using Saekdong, including traffic or credit card cases, name card cases, pouches, coin purses, bags, Vest, teapot wrapping-cloth, brooch. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing) the fabrics(cotton, silk, linen) by theme. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.55-65
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• 2009

Metal complex dyes are usually used to dye amide fiber such as wool, silk and nylon to achieve high concentrated color and excellent color fastness. However, metal complex dyes that contain various heavy metal components cause not only serious environmental problem but also human health. In this study the ordinary 1:2 metal acid dyes and the modified 1:2 metal dyes, which are environmental friendly, are compared and analyzed in existing dyes investigated the trends in the evaluation system of their harmfulness, containing heavy metals and examined exhaustion rates and dyeing characteristics.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.40-44
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• 2004

Fragrance-like style-is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.

• 품질경영학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.26-30
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• 1985

In the light of the properties of colloids, in the surface of disperse phase and dispersion, there exist specific characters such as adsorption or electric double layer, which seems to play important roles in determining the physiochemical properties in the dyeing system. Nylon, wool and silk, the typical amphoteric fibers were dyed with Acid dye and various combinations were prepared by combining pH, temperature and dye concentration, in order to generate flowing electric potential which were measured by microviolt meter and specific conductivity meter. The results were transformed to Zeta potential by Helmholtz-Smoluchowski formular and to surface electric charge density by Suzawa formular, surface dye amount, and effective surface area of fibers, and these data were statistically analysed by principle component analysis.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.31-35
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• 2005

전통 쪽 염료제조 및 염색 방법을 개선하기 위하여 시험한 결과 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 전통 족 염료 제조에 사용하는 꼬막껍질태운가루의 3 g/l 넣을 경우의 수용액의 pH 12.30 정도이었다. 2. 쪽 풀을 2일간 물에 침지를 하였을 경우가 염료의 K/S 값이 2.49로 가장 높았고, 명도 값이 5.03으로 가장 낮았으므로 색상이 가장 짙었다. 3. 볏짚 잿물과 꼬막 껍질 태운가루 양과의 관계를 염료 염색 상태를 보았을 때 3일째부터 염색이 되어5일 째까지의 염색이 가능 하였다. 4. 발효 온도 별로 꼬막껍질 태운가루의 사용량에 따른 발효 상태를 본 결과는 $30^{\circ}C$에서 발효할 경우 3~4g/l일 경우가 K/S 값이 가장 높았다. 5. 쪽 염료 발효 시 사용한 물엿 양은 20 g/l을 사용한 구가 염색 직물의 K/S값이 가장 높은 3.10이었으며, 염색 온도는 $30$~$50^{\circ}C$에서 비슷하며, 염료의 구성 성분도 인디루빈과 인디고 2개의 색소로 구성되었다. 6. 염료의 색소 및 염색 직물의 항균력은 99.8%로 우수하였고, 색소간의 차이는 없었으나 소취성은 sodium hydrosulfite(개선)첨가 발효 방법이 높았다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.371-381
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• 2010

The pine needles can be used for four seasons in normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere as it is distributed over 50% in Korea. The pine needles consist of vitamins, protein, minerals, essential oil and enzyme related to antimicrobial activity. It has effect like high blood pressure, neuralgia and hanged over by terpene, glucokinin, rutin, apigenic acid and tannin. Also the extract of them can be used for dyeing of fabrics. However, the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the volatile components of the pine needles extract and functionality. The pine needles extract was dyed into various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool and soybean) and mordanted with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe and Sn. The extracted aroma compounds were compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The major volatile compounds of pine needles verified by using SPME were alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-phellandrene, caryophyllene, ethanon, benzen. A total of 15 compounds were identified by using the SPME fibers. In the UV-visible spectra, the maximum absorption of wavelength of the pine needles ethanol extract appeared at 460, 630nm for chlorophyll component and at 237, 281nm for tannin component with the pine needles distilled water extract. Most of sample showed high antibacterial effect in none mordant but wool fabric showed high antibacterial effect in mordants. The result of UV block test showed a superior ability of blocking ultraviolet ray infiltration in all sample.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.