• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.634-638
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• 2006

The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.140-146
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• 1999

Colorants in green tea were extracted freeze-dried and analyzed to investigate the possibility of using as a natural dye. Fractionation of the colorants was carried out by column chromatograpy. Colorants in green tea were eluted into five fractions. All the fractions except fraction F2 showed absorption peakat 280nm. Fraction f2 showed absorption peak at 270nm and broad peak at 350nm, From the IR analysis it is speculated that fractions F2-F5 having similar stucture but different molecular weight are catechis. Silk fabrics dyes with fractions F1-F4 showed yellowish red color while sample dyed with fraction F5 showed red color. The colorants from green tea infusion was applied to silk wool nylon cotton and rayon fabrices. It showed relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers bur low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.

• Journal of Korea Foresty Energy
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.18-23
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• 2006

pH dependent K/S values, Hue, Value, and Chroma change of the hot-water and alkali extract of Boehmeria tricuspis have investigated as a part of the studies on natural dye resources. Maximum optical absorption of the dyed cotton, Korean paper, and silk with the extract were observed at 400 nm. According to the result of pH dependent K/S values change, it tended to increase as pH decreased except for the silk and there was no change near pH 7. For Hue, the materials dyed with hot-water and alkali extract indicated YR and R color, respectively. The change in Value of the dyed materials tended to increase, whereas Chroma of them decreased as the pH moved to alkali conditions although there were no significant changes near pH 7. As a result, it is considered that the optimum pH would be 7 when the mentioned materials are dyed with Boehmeria tricuspis extract.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.659-669
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia and sappanwood by Ultraviolet Light(UV). To asses the effect of uv on dyed silk fabrics, physical and chemical properties of samples were explored. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time. Mordanting improved ultraviolet-cut ability and the sappanwood dyed samples were superior to those of gardenia dyed in ultraviolet-cut ability. Color progressively faded away as uv exposure time increased, accordingly, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ were changed. Morphological change observed with SEM represented degradation of silk fabrics from the outer fibril to the inner fibril. Tensile Strength abruptly decreased as uv exposure time increased and the mordanted samples showed higher tensile strength than the unmordanted. FT-IR analysis confirmed that main peaks at 3297 and $1704cm^{-1}$ band for silk fabric were due to N-H and C=O stretching, gardenia peaks at 1654 and $668cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(ester), C=C(alken) and O-C=O(carboxylic acids) of crocin and sappanwood peaks at $1715cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(cyclic keton) of brazilin appeared on the samples exposed for 14 days, but these peaks indicating colorants after 28 days of uv exposure faded away due to prolonged exposure of uv.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1465-1474
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• 2005

The primary purpose of this study is to investigate the differences in the characteristics of the mordants, synthetic aluminum mordants and ash solutions as natural mordants, used in Caesalpinia sappan dyeing. By introducing aluminum potassium sulfate in the ash solutions, the behavior of the aluminum in the ash solutions were observed. In the rice straw ash solutions, adjusted to the levels of pH6 and pH10, the aluminum potassium sulfate was introduced to achieve various concentration levels. From the analysis of the ash solution of pull, $K^+$ and $Na^+$ ion concentrations were found to be extremely high, while $Al^+$ ion concentration was 0. The color development in the Caesalpinia sappan dyeing by ash solution mordanting was found to be mainly governed not by the mordanting actions of the metallic ions but by those of alkali components. In the case of cotton, the application of pH10 ash solution promoted reddish color development compared to the case of non-mordanting, regardless of the aluminum potassium sulfate addition. In the case of silk, the application of pH10 ash solution increased a* value and decreased b* value compared to the case of non-mordanting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.49-63
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• 1999

This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.121-121
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• 2012

To evaluate the Hwangsu spring as natural mordants effect on dyeing. The natural mordant effect of Hwangsu spring was analyzed by pH, temperature, trace elements and organic matter. Hwangsu spring having pH 2.42 and $14.4^{\circ}C$ was harvested at the end of September, 2011, in Yeongcheon(Gyeongbuk Province, Korea) and left on a $0^{\circ}C$ and $25^{\circ}C$ before use. The Result of ICP analysis, it contain bned Fe(414.9 ppm), Al(88.9 ppm), Mn(4.9 ppm). Dyeing and post-mordant procedure; Fabrics(cotton, silk, rayon) were dyed with natural colorants(Sopbora Japonica L., Caesalpinia sappan L., Allium cepa L.) for 20 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Hwangsu spring, aluminium sulfate $14-18H_2O(Al_2(SO_4)_3{\cdot}14-18H_2O)$, iron sulfate peptahydrate($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$), copper sulfate pentahydrate($CuSO_4{\cdot}5H_2O$) were used by post mordants. But in the case of Caesalpinia sappan L. was dyed after pre-mordanting with Al(II). The fabrics were dyed with each mordant solutions at $25^{\circ}C$ for 10min. The colorless also was measured by color-differnce meter. Comparison with a synthetic mordants, the K/S values of cotton fabrics dyed with Hwangsu sping were increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.874-881
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• 2013

Dansam (Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge) is a perennial plant that belongs to the Labiatae family and is characterized by red pigment found in the epidermis of its roots. Research on the dyeability of Dansam extract was performed with repeated trials under various conditions such as temperature, time, and mordant treatment. Silk fabrics were dyed with Dansam extract and mordanted with various agents such as Al, Fe, Cu, and Sn to evaluate the dyeability and functionality of Dansam extract; subsequently, the K/S value and the change of surface color were analyzed using a colorimeter. In addition, the dyeability of dyed fabrics (such as color fastness to washing, dry cleaning fastness, rubbing fastness and light fastness) and functionality (such as antibacterial activity and deodorization) were analyzed. The surface colors of all dyed fabrics were recorded and the results showed the presence of mostly YR series of colors; in addition, a GY color series appeared in the Fe pre-mordants of the silk fabric. The highest K/S values were recorded in Fe post-mordants. The washing fastness were Level 3 and Level 4; in addition, the dry-cleaning fastness showed excellent results at Level 4 and Level 5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory at Level 3 and Level 4 and the light fastness was satisfactory at Level 4. The results of the measurements (that pertained to the antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with Dansam extract) showed a 99.9% bacteria reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. In regards to deodorization ability, dyed fabrics were found to have higher deodorization rates than those not dyed. The dyed fabric demonstrated exceptional deodorization qualities.