• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.103-111
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to investigate the antibacterial efficacy of cotton and silk/rayon fabrics dyed with Saururus chinensis extract against antibiotic-resistant strains. The concentration of the concentrated dye in the Saururus chinensis extracts was 1.1% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:10 at 30-70℃. The mordanting method was a post mordanting method. The concentration of Al2(SO4)3, CuSO4 5H2O and FeSO4 and7H2O mordant was 5% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:40. In order to assess the antimicrobial activity of naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by incubating it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) including Oxacillin (2㎍/ml) and Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml) and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA.) The investigation of the reduction of the rate of antibiotic-resistant strains to dyed cotton fabrics and silk/rayon fabrics revealed that Cu mordanting fabric has the highest antimicrobial effects, with the rate of 99.7%, and Fe mordanting fabric has the lowest, with 77.7%. Non-mordant cotton fabrics also show a high reduction rate of strains (94.6%). In the case of dyed silk/rayon fabrics, it indicates a high reduction in the rate of strains in all fabrics with non-mordant treatment (94.2%), Al mordanting (99.6%), and Cu and Fe mordanting(99.9%).

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.859-871
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of the pigment characteristic and changes in dying conditions on the dying properties by extracting Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum using distilled water and ethanol as solvents. Changes in dying conditions include variations in dye concentrations, dyeing temperatures and time on dye uptake, and K/S Value was compared according to these changes. Additionally, color changes were observed through mordant. Ultraviolet-visible spectrum was used to investigate the pigment characteristic, and as a result, tannin was identified in distilled-water-extract, whereas berberine and chlorophyll were identified in ethanol-extract. In FT-IR analysis, tannin in distilled-water-extract was verified as hydrolyzable tannin. For ethanol extract, chlorophyll was verified through absorption band of C-H, which is aliphatic spectrum around $2920cm^{-1}$ and $2850cm^{-1}$. From GC/MS analysis, oil components as well as terpine compounds were detected in ethanol-extract, and this, in turn, brings expectation regarding functionality. When dying in silk, dye uptake increased as concentration of the extract increased, and the optimum dyeing temperature and time were $40^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes respectively. Dyed fabrics' colors were all basically Y-series colors, and adjustment in brightness and revelation of khaki color were also available depending on the type of the mordant. Color fastness, except for washing fastness, was good in silk dyed with distilled-water-extract. Thus, it can be concluded that by selecting the right extracting method and by doing proper dyeing and mordant according to the needs, these dyed fabrics can be used as eco-friendly, functional clothing material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.337-343
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.249-258
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• 2002

Natural silk is formed by two proteins : the crystalline fibroin (inside the silk thread) and amorphous sericin (as a tube outside the thread). The degumming process is used to eliminate the external sericin prior to dyeing ; generally it makes use of soaps at about pH 10. Sericin is the protein constituent that "gums"together the fibroin filaments of cocoon silk. It constitutes about 25% of the weight of the cocoon, is soluble in hot water and "gels" on cooling. The removal of sericin from raw silk, known as degumming, is a simple but important process usually employing hot dilute soap or alkaline solution and occasionally dilute acids or enzymic methods. During degumming, alkali is taken up by the sericin and the free acid from the soap is formed ; this may be deposited on the fiber, reducing the rate of degumming and protecting it from hydrolysis. Alkali is often added to maintain or restore the pH of the baths, but it is rarely used alone, since it leaves the silk rather harsh in handle. If complete sericin removal is required as for printing, sodium carbonate may be added. If the pH of the bath exceeds 11, the fibroin is attacked. Recently, According to the development of electrolysis, we can be obtained the electrolytic reduction water(above pH 11.5) and electrolytic oxidation water (below pH 3). The aim of this work was to study a degumming process using electrolytic water and a possibility of sericin recovery. The new degumming process used electrolytic water operates at $95^\circ{C}$ for 2hr. without any reagents. The wastewater of this process are formed by a solution of sericin in water. This conditions suggest the study of a possible recovery of this protein (sericin) which has an amino acid composition suitable for many used in cosmetics, textile finishing agents, animal feeding, etc. The degumming process using electrolytic water is available to reduce treatment costs and pollute and at the same time to recover sericin.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.275-281
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• 2020

We studied the dyeability and functionality of silks dyed singly with Caesalpinia sappan, Dactylopius coccus, combination-dyed with Caesalpinia sappan and Phellodendron Amurense Rupr., and with Dactylopius coccus and Phellodendron Amurense Rupr.. The color of silk dyed singly with Caesalpinia sappan was Red with Hue of 2.2 R, the color of silk dyed singly with Dactylopius coccus was Reddish Purple with Hue of 3.0 RP, The color of silk combination-dyed with Caesalpinia sappan and Phellodendron Amurense Rupr. was 2.7YR being in the Orange family, and the color of silk combination-dyed with Dactylopius coccus and Phellodendron Amurense Rupr. was Red with Hue of 4.3R. In the case of antimicrobial activity, except for silk dyed only with Dactylopius coccus, the other three types of dyed silk showed excellent antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus achieving higher than 91.1% of bacteria reduction rate. Against Klebsiella pneumoniae, silk combination-dyed with Dactylopius coccus and Phellodendron Amurense Rupr., and with Caesalpinia sappan and Phellodendron Amurense Rupr. presented very excellent antimicrobial property achieving bacteria reduction rate of 99.9%.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.191-199
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• 2011

A study was done to compare the properties of artificially deteriorated silk with ultraviolets for reinforcing of loss area of paintings on silk. Deteriorated surface of raw silk irradiated by long-wavelength ultraviolet(UV-A) than short-wavelength ultraviolet(UV-C) was similar to naturally aged raw silk. UV-A irradiation raw silk was slowly decreased in tensile tenacity and elongation and lowered in yellowness index than that of UV-C. Water content of UV-A irradiation raw silk than that of UV-C was higher. UV-A irradiation raw silk had no problem in dyeing and inpainting for conservation because of low yellowness index. UV-C irradiation raw silk was brittle, but UV-A irradiation raw silk was seemed to tough and similar to naturally aged raw silk. Korean painting conservator estimated that UV-A irradiation raw silk was more proper for reinforcing of loss area of paintings on silk than that of UV-C.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

The aim of study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial and antifungal activity of silk fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to different mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, silk fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60%(owf), the mordant was 3%(owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was $60~60^\circ{C}$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color, K/S values and durability of dye. The skin microorganisms used in this study was S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentatrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were added, K/S value of silk dyed was not improved much and surface color was 2.2Y to 8.8Y in H(hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to raddish yellow 2. The color fastness tests to light, perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and stain fabric washing show 4~5th degree which were valuated excellent. The color fastness to fade washing was improved to 3~4th degree by addition of $K_2CrO_7$ mordants. 3. Antibacterial activity of silk dyed using no-mordant as well as mordants was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S.epidermidis and P.acnes, but showed poor antibacterial activities on P.aeruginosa and E.coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antifungal activity of silk dyed with ethanol extracts was good on A.niger, C.candida and T.mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 gous in silk dyed mordanting with $SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.476-484
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing properties and anti-microbial ability of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Terminalia chebula Retzius(TCR) extract using two extraction solvent, hot water and methanol. Dyeing properties of fabrics were studied by investigating the characteristics of colorant, changes in dye uptake under different dyeing conditions, and by investigating color change when mordants were applied. Also, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics were estimated. Regardless of extraction solvent type, colorant showed maximum absorption wavelength at 280 nm and 578 nm, which implied that tannin was the major pigment component of TCR. Also, through FT-IR spectrum result, it was confirmed that tannin of TCR methanol extract was hydrolysable tannin. But for the hot water extract, it was only assumed that its tannin was condenced tannin. Fabric dyed with hot water solvent extract showed higher dye uptake than fabric dyed with methanol solvent extract, dye uptake increasing by higher concentration of the dye, longer dyeing time and higher dyeing temperature. And the absorption curve between TCR extract and protein fiber was shaped in the form of Langmuir adsorption isotherm. Fabric dyed without mordant was yellow in color, and when dyed with mordant, fabric showed various colors depending on mordant types except Sn. Color fastness to washing was generally fine and color fastness to light was moderate. But color fastness to rubbing and dry cleaning was outstanding. Lastly, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial activity of 99.9% against Staphylococcus aureus and Kiebsiella pneumoniae.