• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.57-70
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• 2005

Chitosan pre-treatment of the fabrics prior to the dyeing processes has been reported to increase the uptake of natural dyestuffs. In this study, cotton, nylon, and PET fabric specimens were pre-treated with chitosan prior to the dyeing (Method 1), or the state of chitosan acid salt formation, coated on the yarn surface, was destroyed prior to the dyeing process by alkaline neutralization process (Method 2). In case of the acid salt formed cotton (Method 1), treated fabrics showed more yellowish color component of cochineal, while alkali-treated (Method 2) cotton showed more uptake of bluish color of cochineal.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.777-787
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• 2016

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.224-228
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• 2005

This paper focuses on the application of a novel mathematical limit approach derived for K/S values in reactive dyeing of cotton fabrics. The relation obtained from Kubelka-Munk equation is used because the Kubelka-Munk equation is the basic relationship among fabric reflectance, fabric dye content and dyestuff characteristics. The limit approach derived in a former paper is applied to the laboratory dyeings and the dyeing behavior of some reactive dyes on cotton knitted fabric has been obtained. The results of the laboratory experiments are discussed using the new mathematical approach. When the actual K/S values obtained from the dyeings and the calculated K/S values derived by the limit approach are considered independently, it is observed that the limit relation is val id for low dye concentration applications. When the K/S values are calculated taking the K/S value of the initial dyeing concentration $(0.1\;\%\;owf)$ as the starting concentration by applying the result of the derived limit approach, the calculated K/S values fit with the ones obtained in actual dyeings. It is concluded that the novel approach presented in the paper can be used in calculating the K/S values when the initial dyeings at low dye concentrations are carefully carried out.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.210-218
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• 2018

The natural dye product market is expanding due to the recent interest in environmentally friendly products. This study examines dyeing using natural Coptidis Rhizoma. Chitosan and Tannin was treated to improve dyeability of Coptidis Rhizoma after finding the proper dyeing condition. In addition, dyeing characteristics were compared according to mordant types along with the mordanting methods for dye fixing and color change. The results indicated that the optimum dyeing condition was to treat the concentration of 5% (o.w.b.) at $80^{\circ}C$ for 90 minutes. By the chitosan and tannin treatments, K/S value of cotton fabrics by 3 times and those of wool fabrics by 2 times increased and color depthing of dyed fabrics was achieved after 2 cycles repetition. To improve dyeability, iron mordanting was most effective; in addition, the K/S Value of pre-mordanting fabrics versus post-mordanting fabrics increased the most. The color of the surface was changed to reddish yellow when Sn, Cu mordanting, and to greenish blue when Fe mordanting. The lightfastness of dyeing fabric with mordanting was weak at 1-2 grades, but the washing fastness was good for 4 grades and the rubbing fastness and sweat fastness were as good as those of the 3-4 grades. As a result, this study could help improve the dyeability of expensive Coptidis Rhizoma.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.908-917
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• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.422-430
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of the colorants from gromwell on cotton fabric were investigated. The effects of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and the effects of mordants and mordanting methods on K/S value, color change and colorfastness were explored. Gromwell colorants showed low affinity to cotton fabric, and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type close to Langmuir type. Therefore, it was considered that hydrogen bonding and Vander Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to cotton fabric. Pre-mordanting method except Sn mordant gave higher K/S value but it was not significant. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color on cotton fabric depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed cotton fabric showed generally high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased by repeat dyeing and Fe and Sn mordanting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.64-73
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate dyeing characteristics of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics using dyeing solution extracted from different varieties of tea. Comparative results of CIE Lab values of 360 pieces of dyed fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations (100%, 150%, and 200%) and mordants (Fe, Cu, Sn, Al). In addition, the color difference values (${\Delta}E$) of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, among all of the 360 pieces of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics, the best dyeing effects was observed on silk fabrics. Second, the dyeing effect of the eight different types of tealeaves belonging to green tea, oolong tea, black tea, and dark tea tended to enhance as the degree of fermentation increased. Third, when the fabrics were mordanted with Fe, Cu, Sn, Al mordants, various colors such as brown, brownish red, brownish yellow, gray, and reddish brown were obtained.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.699-707
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• 2010

Catechu is widely used as in natural dyeing as well as in various medicines and tannage. This study investigated the dyeing properties and functionality of Catechu through a series of dyeing experiments using cotton fabric. It was shown that the absorbance of Catechu solution has two peaks at 220nm and 280nm. Thus, it can be concluded that the color constituent of Catechu is a catechol tannin and color tone is YR. The dyeability of Catechu increases as the concentration of the dye is increased. Its variation was shown to be similar to the isothermal absorption curve of the Freundlich. As dyeing time was increases, the dyeability did not change significantly after the 30 minute mark was passed. At high temperatures the dyeability was shown to increase. As the dyeing temperature was increased the color of dyeing fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Experiments with pre-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using Catechu. Cotton is effective in using K, Cu, Fe mordants, and the dyeability was shown to be improved with low pH. Both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causing by repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.206-217
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• 2011

The dyeing properties of cotton fabrics with bamboo colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of bamboo colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (dye concentrations, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were also estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for bamboo stems and leaves extracts was found to be 280nm and 295nm, respectively; in addition, bamboo colorants produced a yellow color. From the FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that the chromophoric substance from bamboo extracts was composed of flavones substances with tricin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. The post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting. Mordants, Fe and N.Fe, were effective for an increased dye uptake. The color of fabrics mordanted with Cu and N.Cu changed to GY. Regardless of mordanting, the colorfastness on the washing of dyed fabrics showed a low rating compared to other fastness. Mordanting adversely affected the lightfastness of dyed fabric. The dyed fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in cotton fabric dyed with bamboo extracts.