• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.7-14
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop the color matching program with the excellent camouflage capacity in the near infrared range($\~$1100nm) including the visible light range for cotton fabrics. It was measured IR spectral reflectance in the range of $380\~1,100nm$ after dyed with vat dyes, and we made database for reflectance with various concentration on vat dyes which have a low reflectance value in the infrared range. The color matching algorithm that could be simulated in both the human visible light and the near infrared range was constructed by numerical analysis method using the database. In this study we also developed the dyeing conditions and dyeing process through the continuous-dyeing experiment with the vat dyes for cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.233-238
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• 2006

This research confirmed the chemical structure of Curcumine and Carthamin pigments whose pigments were separated and refined from the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious which were natural dye using FT-IR, HPLC and so on. The cotton and the silk fabrics were dyed using a main pigment and then this research obtained the conclusion as it follows. The curcumine, the main pigment of Curcuma longa extracted from the mixed solvent of acetic anhydride and methanol ($CH_3OH$), had the maximum absorption wavelength at 504.0 nm and was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The Carthamin, the main pigment of Carthamus Tinctorious extracted from the mixed solvent of dichloromethane and methanol, had the maximum absorption wavelength at 420.0nm. This pigment was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The dyeing property of the main pigment about the silk fabrics was superior to that about the cotton in both the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious, and the dyeing property of Carthamus Tinctorious was superior to that of Curcuma longa.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.501-509
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• 2008

This research intends to help local small fashion industry to outgrow its limitation, preserving and developing environment-friendly dyeing tradition in Jeju renowned for persimmon juice dyeing. The study, then, aims to develop eco-friendly golf-wear designs, with maximizing advantages of natural dyeing (with persimmon juice, indigo plant, gallnut, cochineal, turmeric, and loess) such as rot-proofness, bacteria-proofness, stench-proofness and block of ultraviolet rays. The results are as follows: first, natural fabrics such as muslin(cotton 100%), linen(linen 100%) and spandex(mixed cotton 98%, polyurethane 2%) were developed into eco-friendly ones colored with various natural dye sources. Second, four kinds of golf-wear design were developed to stand out golf wear's natural image, focused on classic, neo-minimal style. The characteristic details and design elements of sportswear were added to basic golf wear design. Therefore, it is hopeful that those designs of naturally dyed golf wear for women could be utilized for other various purposes in the future.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.101-109
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.344-349
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• 2009

Optimum dyeing conditions of green tea extracts were investigated toward nylon, cotton, rayon, and tencel fabrics. Affinity of green tea extracts was exhibited much higher onto nylon fabric than the other cellulosics. As for nylon, the adsorption was increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and optimum dyeing pH was around 4~6. Buildup property of green tea extract was good showing a linear relationship between concentration of the extracts and color strength of dyed fabrics within experimental range. Color fastnesses were good to excellent in general except to light.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.818-826
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• 2009

Dyeability of microbial violacein produced from Chromobacterum violaceum CV107 on to multifiber fabrics has been studied. The bluish-purple colourants were produced by cultivation of Chromobacterum violaceum using LB liquid medium for 2 days. The colourant was extracted with 80% acetone and identified as violacein by LC/MS analysis. The violacein could be dyed on not only natural fibers such as Cotton, Silk and Wool but also synthetic fibers such as Diacetate, Triacetate, Creslan 61 and Nylon 66. Maximum K/S values were shown at 540-580 nm according to different fiber with color appearance of purple or blue. An optimum pH and temperature under dyeing condition were 10 and $70^{\circ}C$, respectively. Any mordants were not improved colour density and quality on various fabrics. From this studies, pigments produced microbe have a high potentials for natural dyeing on fabrics. Finally, development of new colourants from microbe has made a possible change for new dyeing field in respects of eco-friend and repeatability of natural dyeing for apparels.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.46-55
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• 2006

본 연구는 우리 야생화중 비교적 대량번식이 가능한 종인 산비장이의 줄기, 꽃, 잎을 채취하여 염액을 추출하고, 다양한 염색 조건에서 견과 면 소재를 염색하여 염색거동을 살펴보고 염색된 색상에 대하여 고찰하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색에서 견은 pH가 낮을수록 진하게 염색되었고 면은 pH가 중성일 때 가장 진하게 염색되었다. 2. 염색온도에 따른 염착량은 견과 면 구분 없이 큰 차이가 없었다. 3. 염색시간이 1시간에서 2시간 사이에서 급격한 Y값의 감소를 보여 이 시간대에서 많은 염착이 이루어 졌다. 4. 면은 염 첨가 농도로 높을수록 Y값이 낮아져 염이 촉염효과 역할을 하는 것으로 보여 졌으나 견의 경우 염첨가에 따른 Y의 값은 큰 변화가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 5. 염액 농도에 따른 염색성은 견, 면 모두 농도가 작아지면 염착량이 작아졌다. 6. 견의 경우 매염제의 대한 매염효과가 높게 나타나고 있으나 매염제 농도는 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 면에서 철(Fe)과 구리(Cu)에 대한 매염효과만 조금 있었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.93-101
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• 2022

In this study, the dyeing properties of supercritical fluid dyed cotton fabrics were investigated which use two types of dyes, such as C.I. Disperse orange and C.I. Disperse red 167. Dyeing temperature, pressure and leveling time were equally applied at 130 ℃, 250 bar, and 60 minutes with reference to the related literature, and experiments were performed at concentrations of 0.04, 0.1, 0.4 and 0.8 % o.w.f with different concentrations. Dyeability was confirmed through measurement of washing fastness and color coordinate, and a calibration curve of each dye was drawn up and the absorbance of the residual dye was measured to confirm the amount of residual dye and the dye exhaustion rate at the corresponding concentration. As a result of color difference measurement, as the concentration increased, the L^* value decreased and the K/S value increased. However, as the concentration increased, the increase in K/S value decreased compared to the input amount, and this tendency was more obvious in C.I. Disperse red 167 than in C.I. Disperse orange 155. The dye exhaustion rate which was calculated by using the amount of residual dye in the pot was also C.I. Disperse orange 155 was 96.16 % and C.I. Disperse red 167 was 94.57 %. However, as the dyeing concentration increased, the dye exhaustion rate decreased, that C.I. Disperse orange was 95.33 % and C.I. Disperse red 167 was 90.63 %. As a result of the washing fastness test for both dyes, dyed samples of which concentrations were 0.4 and 0.8 % o.w.f decreased by 0.5 ~ 1.0 grade. This is predicted because the dye did not completely adhere to the amorphous region of the cotton fiber and the dye simply adsorbed. The fastness to rubbing also maintained at least grade 3-4 up to the 0.1 % o.w.f concentration, but at the concentration of 0.4 % o.w.f or higher, it fell to grade 1 or lower, showing a very poor friction fastness.