The effect of organic solvent in the dyeing of silk fiber by acid dye was investigated. Acetophenone and benzyl alcohol were shown to be the most effective for the rate of dyeing of silk fiber by Milling Cyanine 5R (C.I. Acid Blue 113), a milling type acid dye, but, with benzyl alcohol, the equilibrium dye uptake was much lower than that in the absence of it. In the presence of solvent, maximum dye uptake shifted to lower temperature than 6$0^{\circ}C$, while without solvent, it was shown at about $60^\circ{C}$. When dyed by Orange II (C.I. acid Orange 7) under same condition equilibrium dye uptake of silk fiber was lower than that for milling type acid dye, and in the presence of benzyl alcohol, still much lower uptake resulted. All these fact reveals that organic solvents in the solvent-assisted dyeing of silk fiber broaden micelle spacings too much, resulting in increased rate of dyeing, and decreased equilibrium dye uptake, contrary to wool.
One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.
The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.
In order to decolorize the reactive dye wastewater, we investigated the dye-adsorption ability of chitin, which was natural polymer obtained from shrimp shell. Chitin particle(less than 250 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$n) was prepared from shrimp shells in the processes of decalcification in aqueous hydrochloric acid solution and deproteination in aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. The particle size of chitin was controlled to less than 250 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$. Three tripes of the reactive dyes-C.I. Reactive Red 120, C.I. Reactive red 241 and C.I. Reactive Black 5-were used. Dye adsorption ability of chitin was investigated by dipping the particle in the dyebaths of concentration of 0.0l%, 0.03% and 0.05% for various periods of time(1,3,5, 10,20,40,80,160minutes). The influence of addition of salt(Na$_2$SO$_4$) and alkali to the dyebaths on dye-absorption was also investigated. We obtained the following results fur the dye-absolution ability of chitin in the dyebaths of three types of reactive dyes. 1) The amount of dye uptake by chitin was increased by addition of salt to the dyebaths. 2) As the concentration of alkali became higher than 3g/I, the amount of dye uptake by chitin was increased. Chitin showed good dye-adsorption ability, when the alkali concentration was high. 3) Chitin showed equal dye uptake in the three types of dyebaths when the dye concentration was 0.0l%. Over 90% of dyestuffs was adsorbed from the dyebaths in ten minutes. When the dye concentration was higher, better adsorption ability was showed in a dye bath of Reactive black 5 than in the others. When the dye concentration was 0.03%, 90% of Reactive red 120 and Reactive red 241 was adsorbed in 40 minutes and the same of Reactive black 5 in 10 minutes. When the dye concentration was 0.05%, 9()% of Reactive red 120 was adsorbed in 80 minutes, and Reactive black 5 in to minutes.
Polyester microfiber has usually greater dye uptake than normal denier polyester fiber in same dyeing condition. In spite of this high dye uptake dyed microfiber fabric has not only low visual colour depth but also poor washing fastness property. In order to study high colouring dyeing technology and high washing fastness of polyester microfiber, dyeing property of polyester microfiber was investigated according to the dye solubility and particle size of used disperse dyes in aqueous dye solution. After disperse dyeing, dyed fabric with disperse dye was redyed with a vat dye without reduction clearing in order to obtain a high washing fastness property. The result were as followings ; A small particle sized disperse dyes such as C. I. Disperse Blue 56 and Red 60 showed high rate of initial exhaution compared with a large particle sized disperse dyes like C. I. Disperse Blue 165 and Red 343. In study of dyeing property of polyester microfiber with C. I. Vat Blue 1, polyester microfiber could achieve high dye uptake at a given optimum vatting process conditions. On the other hand, in consecutive dyeing with disperse and vat dye, K/S value of polyester microfiber with a small particle sized disperse dye increased without reduction clearings, but K/S value of polyester microfiber with a large particle sized disperse dye decreased with reduction clearings.
Morphology of polyester fiber was physically modified by solvent treatment. PET fiber was treated with N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF) at 100, 120, $140^{circ}C$ for 10 minutes without tension. The structural changes in the morphology of DMF-induced modified PET fiber were FTIR and SEM analysis. Also dyeing behavior of DMF-treated polyester fibers with various disperse dyes was studied to detect changes of amorphous area in fine structure. DMF treatment resulted in increases in total void content, degree of crystallinity, trans isomer content, chain folding, segmental mobility and molecular packing, but it resulted in decreases in amorphous orientation, intermolecular forces and individual void size through longitudinal shrinkage, lateral welling and removal of oligomers. Void-size distribution could be estimated from the dye uptake with various sizes of disperse dyes. In contrast to the large increases in dye uptake with small dye molecules, there is no and little dye uptake with the bulkiest dye, which means that void size is bigger or smaller than the volume of each dye. Diffusion rates of dye molecules showed increases. This dyeing study revealed that the disperse dyeing is very effective method for characterizing the internal morphology of polyester fiber.
Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from pomegranate hull on cotton fabric were investigated. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Cationic agent treatment was done for cotton to improve low dyeability in natural dyeing. In addition antimicrobial activity of the cotton fabrics dyed with pomegranate colorants was examined by the shake flask method. Pomegranate colorants showed low affinity to cotton fiber and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type. Therefore, hydrogen bonding was involved in the adsorption of pomegranate colorants onto cotton fiber. Mordants did not significantly increase dye adsorption. Pomegranate colorants produced mainly yellow color on cotton fabric. In order to improve dye uptake, cotton was cationized by treating with Cationon UK(quarterly ammonium salt) and chitosan. The cationized cotton with Cationon UK showed higher dye uptake and shorter dyeing time, compared with the untreated cotton. Chitosan treated cotton also showed high dye uptake, but chitosan was less effective compared with Cationon UK. Fastness to washing, perspiration, and rubbing was not improved by mordanting and cationizing treatment, but light fastness was increased by all mordants and cationic agent. As dye concentration increased, bacterial reduction rate was increased and mordants did not significantly increase bacterial reduction rate.
The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effect of dyeing conditions and mordanting effect on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FT-IR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins were contained in the extracted colorant. Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. Mordanting improved dye uptake regardless of mordant type, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabric with mordanting showed YR Munsell color except of the Fe($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$) mordanted sample showing Y Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3/4 except that the dyed samples with Fe mordanting showed grade 2. It is necessary to apply Metasequoia cone colorant onto other fibers, especially protein fibers, for evaluating its efficacy as a new natural dye resource.
The factors which affect the absorption and diffusion of disperse dye in print paste for polyester film were investigated using film roll method. When Emvatex print paste of different disperse dye concentrations were fixed by high temperature steaming(HTS) for 2 hr at $190^{\circ}C$, the dye uptake and diffusion distance of 50g/kg dye concentration for PET film were very low, but those of 100$\sim$300g/kg were increased with increasing dye concentration. It was found that sodium alginate(5%) was more effective for the absorption and diffusion of disperse dye to PET film than CMC(3%) and Emvatex(18%), and Emvatex showed comparatively low absorption in three thickeners used. The dye uptake and diffusion distance of disperse dye in sodium alginate paste for PET film were increased with increasing paste thickness to $160\sim180{\mu}m$, but were decreased at $200\sim220{\mu}m$ in both fixations of baking and HTS for 2 hr at $190^{\circ}C$, and were far more largely increased by fixation of HTS than baking because steam was very important for fixation. Also it was confirmed that dye uptake was slightly increased as steam supply pressure was raised from 1 $kg/cm^2$ to 2 $kg/cm^2$, andthe dye uptake and diffusion distance of disperse dye were outstandingly increased with raising fixing temperature from $170^{\circ}C$ to $190^{\circ}C$ and fixing time from 0.5 hr to 3 hr in the fixation of HTS.
The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. In previous study, dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out and Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. For further evaluation of its efficacy as a new natural dye resource, effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for silk fiber. Metasequoia cone colorant showed good affinity toward silk fiber showing YR Munsell color and maximum dye uptake was shown at pH 3.5. Post-mordanting with Cu and Fe improved dye uptake, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabrics with mordanting showed YR Munsell color. Fe mordanted fabrics appeared dark gray~black color. Colorfastness to washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics showed grade 2. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorant can be used as a new dye resource for silk fiber getting brownish yellow to dark gray/black color depending on mordant type. In addition, it showed antimicrobial functionality.
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