• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.15-32
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• 2024

Modern fashion manifests in forms that mirror the diverse lifestyles and personalities of consumers. It transcends mere aesthetic designs and embodyies practicality. There is a preference for comfortable, highly functional attire, leaning towards easy wear. Casual wear, in particular, embraces a sense of freedom not found in standard business attire. It seeks a comfortable, natural silhouette through tactile fabrics rather than sportswear. Loose, drop shoulder sleeves enhance comfort and mobility and often become key elements in casual wear designs. Given that clothing must balance aesthetics with functionality, especially across various activities, it is natural to prioritize functional design. Research on patterns suited for dynamic conditions is imperative. The rise of drop shoulder styles necessitates the development of corresponding sleeve patterns. It is crucial to differentiate pattern drafting methods due to the resulting silhouette variations. This study aims to categorize drop shoulder pattern drafting techniques based on shoulder extension and angle dimensions. Each method will be examined, and drop shoulder sleeve patterns and wear forms will be studied using a 3D virtual system. This research holds significance in providing valuable insights and foundational data for designing diverse drop shoulder sleeve patterns, contributing to their practical development and advancement.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권1호
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• pp.51-64
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• 2019

This study provides basic information for the convenient size selection of shirts in the online purchasing environment. The preferred shirt fit was compared according to body size group. The subjects were 111 students majoring in clothing. After setting a virtual model with her own body sizes, subjects chose the best preferred fit among four sizes shirts which included the shirt suitable to her bust circumference, one size smaller shirt, one size larger shirt, and a two size larger shirt. They generally preferred the original size, but the preferred shirt fit was different by the body characteristics such as stature, waist height, or the ratio of Biacromion and drop. Shirt length was affected by stature and sleeve length was affected by waist height. The shoulder ease was mostly affected by the ratio of the shoulder length. Waist fit and hip fit were influenced by waist and hip. Therefore, the body parts affecting the preferred fit of each shirt part were different and the effect of body shape was stronger than body size.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1092-1101
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the size of ready-made clothing for elderly women and to evaluate their fit according to body type. Subjects were 33 women aged 60 and older, and they were classified by stature and drop index. The size of clothing which manufactured by four apparel brands were measured and compared with body size, and the size designation of four brands was compared. The questionnaire was carried out to subjects, and the size recognition and dissatisfaction with ready-made clothing were analyzed. The fitting test were carried out, and the subjects evaluated the fit of jackets and slacks of four brands. In the result of questionnaire, we found that subjects had little recognition about their clothing size. Subjects responded that they often felt dissatisfaction in their jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust girth, slacks, and waist girth. We found that each apparel brands had different sizing system and that even if the size designation of label was same, the clothing size was quite different. So the elderly women who didn't have so much knowledge about their own clothing size had a tendency to confuse with choosing proper clothing for themselves. In the wearer's evaluation, the significant difference in the degree of unsatisfaction were certified in several body parts according to wearer's body type. Especially, the degree of unsatisfaction in the case of subjects of having very small stature or very small hip was higher than other body types. From the result, we certified that it was necessary to consider the characteristics of each body type to increase the satisfaction of elderly women with clothing.