• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out various types of stripes pattern and to review its' design expression by analysing stripe pattern and visual effect appeared in western women's fashion after 20th centuries. As regards the visual effect of stripe pattern, on the basis of the stripe pattern's direction laid out, we made an investigation of it by classfying it into verticality, horizontality, slant line and mixture of them according to its' gap and thickness. Here are the 4 features of the stripe pattern appeared in modern fashions. The first, graphic variation based on diverse variation and reconstruction and combination between other motives is being onthe rise as a new expression. The second, colorful stripes of Missoni can be exanpled as the trend of diversification of color. The third, as regards the trend of mismatch in pattern, coordination through mismatch can produce experimental and post-modern image. The fourth, as for the expression of draping effect, we find that stripe pattern can maximaze visual effect through draping by inducing visual stimulus, as well as can express human body in a beautiful manner.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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• v.30 no.7 s.250
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• pp.849-856
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• 2006

In this paper, fabric composite draping on hemisphere moulds were studied to find out the deformation behaviour of micro-tow structures of fabrics during draping and thermoforming. Aluminium and PVC foams were used to fabricate the hemisphere moulds for draping tests. In order to observe the local tow deformation pattern during the draping several specimens for microscopic observation were sectioned from the draped hemisphere structures. The effect of forming condition and mould properties on tow deformation was investigated by the microscopic observation of the tow parameters such as crimp angle. Normalization scheme was performed to compare tow parameter variations with different forming conditions. Stress-strain .elations of two different PVC foams (HT70 and HT110) were tested to investigate the effect of foam property on the micro-tow deformation during forming.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.120-129
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• 2016

This study aimed to develop an optimal sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on an analysis of anthropometric characteristics of Korean older women. A hip protector is a specialized form of pants or underwear containing pads along the outside of each hip. The 3D body scan data of Korean older women were analyzed to identify their anthropometric characteristics and a four-size system with 93% of population accommodation was developed by clustering analysis based on key dimensions derived from factor analysis. The sizing system consists of small/short, large/short, small/tall, and large/tall. A 3D physical model and hip pads were fabricated; then, a hip protector was draped on the 3D model and hip pads. The sizing system of hip protector was analyzed in terms of size and shape and a draping pattern was compared on back center, back side, front side, front center and pad. Lastly, the pattern deformation and clothing pressure were analyzed using the virtual clothing system CLO. Virtual system have disadvantage of not to suggest the objective value. In the future research the wearing comfort and impact absorption of the hip protector needs to be tested and then a hip protector design will be finalized by considering the hip protector's size, material, comfort testing results, aesthetic appeal, protection effectiveness, and practical utility of everyday use.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.2 s.216
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• pp.127-135
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• 2006

This paper suggests guidelines for virtual clothes modeling and draping software suitable for clothes designers. We first analyze Maya Cloth, which is widely used in game and animation fields, and which has been adopted by Pad System as a 3D cloth draping system. We then discuss what functions and procedures would improve Maya Cloth to assist designers in being able to create the clothes they have conceptualized. While Maya Cloth has many good functions and features forvirtual cloth modeling and draping, it treats input 2D patterns as approximat and it creates 3D clothes by considering other factors such as the 3D body model. As a result, it is hard for clothes designers to control the shape of the 3D clothes by changing 2D patterns. Furthermore, Maya Cloth does not handle seamlines satisfactorily. We suggest that the following new features should be added to Maya Cloth : respecting the input 2D patterns, handling seamlines, and controlling the shape of the clothes in 3D space.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.346-360
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• 2021

Universities have recently introduced problem-based learning (PBL) to various subjects to enhance problem-solving skills (including self-directed learning and small-group learning) required in industry. The PBL module was applied to the personal production process in a draping class. A study was based on a questionnaire after conducting two PBL modules with a group of students. Each PBL module included 'design analysis', 'presentation of flat sketch and draping plan', 'discussion of the plan', 'evaluation of the draping result and correcting the problem', and 'final evaluation of the completed project'. Results showed that satisfaction with the PBL method and its activities was higher than satisfaction with existing teaching methods. In particular, among the various components, the 'design analysis' and 'the presentation step of flat sketch and draping plan' stages were more helpful to students compared to small-group discussion. Moreover, the effects of PBL were observed through student reflection essays, in which students suggested that PBL was very effective in enhancing problem-solving through self-directed and small-group learning. Despite the overall satisfaction with PBL, students expressed some minor difficulties associated with awkwardness with a novel learning method, lack of diverse perspectives among each group, and poor communication skills. Therefore, the study shows that PBL is highly likely to be useful to students when they are solving pattern drafting problems and making samples through self-directed learning and small-group learning.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2005.04a
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• pp.154-157
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• 2005

This paper aims to investigate the tow deformation pattern with respect to shear angle and mold property during draping of plain weave carbon/epoxy prepreg. Aluminum and PVC foams with different foam density are used for the draping hemisphere molds with 250 mm diameters. Microscopic observation reveals that tow parameters like crimp angle and Y-directional tow intervals are influenced by shear angle and mold density at the same time. The correlation between crimp angle and Y-directional tow interval is also found out.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.611-619
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• 2008

2.5D Mapping system that embody in this paper can make new design by doing draping to live various texture and model picture image of fashion clothes by pattern, and can confirm clothes work to simulation without producing direction sample or product directly. Also, the system can support function that can forecast fabric design and state of end article exactly, and the system can bring competitive power elevation of fashion industry and cost-cutting effect by doing draping using database of fabric and model picture image. 2.5D Mapping system composed and embodied by mesh warp algorithm module, light and shade extraction and application module, mapping path extraction module, mesh creation and transformation module, and 2.5D mapping module for more natural draping. Future work plans to study 3D fashion design system that graft together 3D clothes technology and 3D human body embodiment technology to do based on embodiment technology of 2.5D mapping system and overcomes expression limit of 2.5D mapping technology.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.10 s.212
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• pp.179-190
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.