• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.99-106
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• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.13-21
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• 2021

In order to examine the changes in the appearance properties and the post-adhesion appearance properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics : 100% Hanji yarn fabric, two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and 100% cotton fabric, were selected and fused with three kinds of interlinings. After fusing, changes of standardized KES values were examined. 1. W/T, B/W of Hanji yarn blended fabrics was higher than that cotton fabric. WC/W, 2HB/W, 2HB/B, and 2HG/G values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics are lower than cotton fabric. This means that the Hanji yarn was mixed, shape retention, wrinkle recovery was improved, and the drape property was lowered. 2. After fusing, W/T, shape retention, wrinkle recovery of Hanji yarn blended fabrics increased, and WC/W values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics decreased. The wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were improved; however, the 2HG/G value of Hanji yarn fabric increased due to fusing, and the wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn fabric decreased. 3. In the selection of adhesive core, I1 adhesive core is excellent in terms of shape stability and wrinkle recovery; however, an I3 adhesive core is recommended for drape and silhouette formation. When the fabric of the adhesive core was PET, it was found to penetrate better between the fabrics during adhesion than the case of cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.25-34
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• 1996

Diphenyl ethanolamidophosphate(DPEAD) was synthesized for the purpose of developing a new flame retardant for cotton fabric. As the intermediate material was used diphenyl chlorophosphate(DPCP) and it was synthesized by using phosphorus oxychloride and phenol as the starting materials. The final product DPEAP was obtained by the reaction of DPCP and ethanolamine. The flame retardancy of cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP through pad-dry-cure(PDC) process was examined at various conditions. The physical property change of the DPEAP treated cotton fabrics were investigated by examining the drape stiffness, the wrinkle recovery, and the tensile strength. The results are summarized as follows: (1) DPEAP has shown excellent flame retardancy on cotton fabrics in comparison to other flame retardants for cotton fabrics available commercially. (2) The optimal condition for PDC process found was that the curing temperature was 16$0^{\circ}C$, the DPEAP concentration was 10%, the catalyst $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration was 7.0%, and the fixing agent hexamethylol melamine (HMM)/DPEAP weight ratio was 1/8. (3) The wrinkle recovery of the processed fabrics increased with increasing DPEAP concentration. (4) The drape stiffness of the cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP have shown essentially no change until increasing DPEAP concentration to 15 %, however DPEAP concentration exceeds 20% the drape stiffness increased drastically with increasing DPEAP concentration. When DPEAP concentration is kept constant the drape stiffness increased with increasing $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration and HMM/DPEAP weight ratio. (5) The tensile strength of the processed fabrics was lower than that of untreated fabrics, but the tensile strength retention increased with increasing DPEAP concentration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.891-900
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• 2001

The purpose of this study were to evaluate the physical properties and dyeability of cellulase and alkali(NaOH, KOH) treated ramie/man-made fiber mixture fabrics. The mixture fabrics were plain weave made by rayon and polyester fiber as warp yarn, and ramie as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength, and water absorbancy were measured for test fabrics. The K/S value of dyed fabrics were calculated using color difference meter. Also colorfastness to washing and sunlight of dyed fabrics were evaluated. The results obtained from this study were as follows: Thickness and weight per unit area of alkali treated two mixture fabrics(rayon/ramie, polyester/ramie) increased compared to those of untreated fabrics, but cellulase treated fabrics did not changed a little. And alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics showed more change than polyester/ramie mixture fabrics on the thickness and weight. Tensile strength and water absorbancy of cellulase treated fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance increased. Crease resistance, tensile strength(warp direction), water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated polyester/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance and tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Tensile strength of KOH treated two mixture fabrics increased compared to that of untreated, but water absorbancy and drape decreased. Total hand of cellulase and alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics was improved compared to untreated. Dyeability of treated mixture fabrics was increased compared to untreated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.49-53
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• 1981

This study was carried out to investigate the drapability of polyester double jersey skirt Drapability is an important aesthetic properties of fabric on clothing construction, In this thesis weight, shearing, bending and non-isotropic characteristics of fabric were regarded as important factors of drapability, Especially for drapability of skirt, I investigated hem effect on various length of hem and skirt, The results were as follows, 1. The less the weight of fabric was, the greater drapability appeared. On fabrics, large pliability and modulus of shear have good drapability, 2. On clothing cutting, non-isotropic property affected on drapability of clothes remark-ably. Drapability order of clothes was greatest in bias direction, next in wale, course direction, 3. The shorter the skirt length and closer at hem line were the larger the hem effect influence upon the drapability of skirt was.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.828-837
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mired fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Hari hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.