• Title/Summary/Keyword: Drape

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Analysis of Shapes of Bending and Draping by the Model Rule (닮음 법칙에 의한 굽힘 및 드레이프 형상의 해석)

  • 서정권;이정욱
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.1116-1124
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    • 1996
  • The factors to presume the shapes of bending and draping were examined in this study, by applying the similar phenomenon and theory of analysis. The findings were as followings: 1. The value of deflection angle (f) of deflection curve were almost consistent with those of K number and the shapes of deflection curve were congruent, under the condition of that the values of EI/w are almost similar and the lengths of samples are consistent. 2. The values of drape area, drape coefficient, mean of deflection angle, and $\pi$ number were consistently estimated and the shapes of drape were almost the same, under the condition of that the values of EI/w are similar and the diameter of samples are consistent. 3. In using the samples with different values of EI/w, scale factor, kl, was obtained from the formula, the shapes of bending of the referent samples and compsactive smaples was geometrically similar, which the lengths of samples were 1,1'and were satisfied with the formula, hi: L'11, and their $\pi$ number were also consistent. 4. In applying the samples with different values of Rllw, scale factor (kl) was obtained and then, when semidiameter of samples was adjusted to be satisfied with the formula, k1=L/L, the shapes of draping of referent samples and comparative samples were geometrically similar. Furthermore, their $\pi$ number was also consistent. 5. The shares of bending and draping could be changed in terms of three factors such as the lengths of samples, bending ridigity, and weigths per unit area. $\pi$ number was obtained from theory of similar phenomenon, which was index to presume shapes of bending and the shapes of draping getting from the three factors.

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A Study on the Shape of Hem-line of Semi-Flare Skirts according to a Cutting Angle - Based on the Comparison between Real Clothing and 3D Virtual Clothing - (재단 각도에 따른 세미 플레어 스커트의 외관 및 헴라인 드레이프 형상에 관한 연구 - 실제 착의와 i-Designer의 가상 착의 시스템을 중심으로 -)

  • Koo, Mi-Ran;Suh, Mi-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.499-511
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    • 2009
  • As the demand of the consumer for high-sense clothing, relation with materials is becoming important even in clothing construction. Especially, the cutting angle of materials is becoming an crucial element in the formation of silhouette, and drape of Hem line, of skirts. Accordingly, in this study, Hem line shapes between real clothing and 3D virtual clothing of "i-Designer" were analyzed by manufacturing semi-flare skirts of polyester 100% according to a cutting angle, and the results are as follows. As a result of comparison of silhouette between the real clothing and the virtual clothing, the real and the virtual have a similar feeling regardless of a cutting angle. In case of drape shapes, both the front and the lateral side were represented in almost similar shapes. The back side, however, the real and the virtual showed a great difference in case of grain direction. And in the whole silhouette, the real and the virtual were represented similarly. It could be known that with regard to Hem-line drape shapes between the real clothing and the virtual according to a cutting angle, the real clothing is represented in a location farther from the body than the virtual clothing and, the location or number of node was similarly showed in the real and the virtual.

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Physically based cloth simulation

  • Horiba, Yosuke;Shimizu, Yoshio
    • Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.49-50
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    • 2003
  • In this paper, we describe a precise relationship between measured mechanical properties of cloth and the particle model. T he proposed cloth model is compared with the tablecloth drape, furthermore it is validated by the visualization of cloth 3-D drapeability.

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직물의 3차원 드레이프 표현을 위한 모델 개발

  • 박종규;강태진
    • Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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    • 1998.04a
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    • pp.258-261
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    • 1998
  • 2차원 시스템과는 달리 3차원 의복 CAD 시스템을 이용하면, 직접 재단 봉제 과정을 거치지 않고도, 만들어진 의복의 형상과 착장 상태를 확인해볼 수 있다는 장점이 있다. 이러한 3차원 시스템에서는 의복의 자연스런 처짐, 이른바 드레이프(drape)를 잘 표현하여야만 실제에 최대한 가까운 의복의 형상을 보여줄 수 있다.(중략)

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The Evaluation of Physical Properties and Hand of Bast/Man-Made Fiber Mixed Fabrics (마와 인조섬유 교직물의 물성 및 평가)

  • 김순심;양진숙;최종명
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.6
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    • pp.828-837
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mired fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Hari hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.

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Effect of Dyeing by Immature Persimmon Juice on the Hand of Fabrics (감즙염색이 직물의 태에 미치는 영향)

  • 고은숙;이혜선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.8
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    • pp.883-891
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    • 2003
  • In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

A Study on the Mechanical Properties and the Handle of Fabrics -On the blend ratio and weight of summer suits- (직물의 역학적 성질과 Handle에 관한 연구 -하복지의 혼방률과 중량을 중심으로一)

  • Kim Duk Ly;Park Jeang Whan
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.47-57
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    • 1984
  • Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

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A Study on the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Enzyme - Effect of the Predegumming Degrees on the handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Protease - (효소정련 견직물의 태에 관한 연구(II) - 조련정도가 효소정련견직물의 태에 미치는 영향 -)

  • 이용우;김중태
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.67-72
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    • 1987
  • This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

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A Study on the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Enzyme - Comparison with the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Soap-soda - (효소정련 견직물의 태에 관한 연구 - 비누-소다정련견직물태와의 비교 -)

  • 이용우;김중태
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.52-60
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    • 1986
  • This study was carried out to compare the handle of silk fabrics degummed with Alkalase, Protease produced by bacteria, with of silkfabrics degummed with the soap-soda. 1. In twill habutae, the stiffiness of silk fabric degummed with Alkalase was lower than that of silkfabirc degummed with soap-soda. The soft feeling value which is meaning the total Mandle value of medium fabirc for lady, as well as the Smothness, were more improved in enzymatic degumming than in the soap-soda degumming. 2. In case of Crep De Chine representing thin fabric for lady, the stiffness and Anti-Drape stiffness of the fabric degummed with Alkalase were lower than those of fabric degummed with the soap-soda, but the fullness and the Flexibilit with smooth feeling which is meaning the Total Handle value were higher.

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