• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.217-228
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.595-601
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• 1994

This study was accomplished to investigate drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics according to treatment processes and brushing conditions. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. Drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics were measured by drape tester and shirley crease recovery tester respectively. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate mechanical properties, handle, drapability, and wrinkle recovery 1) Drape coefficients of dyed fabric showed lower values and wrinkle recovery showed higher ones than those of bleached and dyed fabrics. Especially dyed fabric brushed 3 times showed good appearance and form stability. 2) Considering the blocked properties that contribute to the drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics, bending and shearing properties had a high degree of correlation with brushed fabrics, and 2HB/W showed a high positive correlation with drape coefficient and a high negative correlation with wrinkle recovery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.609-619
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• 1996

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) has been used as a mainstream fiber to make silklike fiber. The silky characteristics such as softness, dry touch feeling and flexibility can be obtained by weight reduction treatment. In aqueous alkali solution, the surface of PET is dissolved away and reduced in weight. The PET fiber, yarn and fabric become thinner and the gaps between fibers are wider. Its mobility is greatly improved without change of basic structures of the treated PET fibrics. The alkali treatment was conducted under the various experimental conditions such as alkali (NaOH) concentration, treatment time and temperature. As the weight loss increased, drapability improved and tensile strength remarkably reduced. When the PET fabrics lost 30% in their weight, drape coefficient lowered as much as 30oA and tensile stregth lowered as much as 50%. The weight loss over 30% brings great improvement in drapability and dyeability and significant decline in durability. By the alkali treatment, absorbency in spectrophotometer of dyed PET can be increased as much as 82% due to the increase of the surface area and formation of microvoids on the surface.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.27-37
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the preference of the hand and the sensibility image of underwear textiles according to seasons. According to a recent survey of 109 college students, using a 7 scale evaluation to the preference of the hand and the sensibility image among 13 summer and 10 winter underwear textiles. The data was analyzed through mean, SD, factor analysis, t-test, Person correlation analysis and regression analysis using SPSS Win 11.0. The summer underwear textiles were classified according to six tactile factors: stiffness/surface unevenness, weight, elasticity, moistness, extension, and warm-cool and 3 sensibility image factors: elegant individual, modern, and sporty-casual. The winter textiles were classified according to six tactile factors: stiffness/surface unevenness, elasticity, warm-cool, drapability, moistness and flexibility and divided into 2 sensibility images: modern elegant and sporty-casual. Factors expressing hand and sensibility image according to season showed significant difference. In the summer, weight, in the winter, drapability and flexibility showed significant difference at the hand factor evaluation. The hand factors: weight, warm-cool and modern sensibility image factors effect the preference of summer underwear textile, also the hand factors-elasticity, stiffness/surface unevenness and the sensibility image factor-easy-sport-casual-effect the preference of winter textiles. Therefore, the thin, light, and cool textiles which are also gorgeous and sporty-casual are preferred for summer underwear textiles while soft, simple and comfortable textiles are preferred for winter textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1032-1042
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55$^{\circ}C$, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 2001

Tencel fabric was treated with cellulase and softener. And then Mechanical properties were investigated. Basic characteristic values of clothing wearing were calculated. With the treatment of cellulase and softener treatment, WT, RT, LC, WC, RC of mechanical characteristics were increased, and G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB were decreased. B/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, 2HB/B, W/T of Basic characteristic values of clothing wearing were decreased. WC/W, WC/T were increased, Therefore, drapability, crease resistance, pressing softness, air content were improved. In consideration of mechanical characteristics and basic characteristic values of clothing wearing depending on the softener, values of WT, WC/W, WC/T were bigger with the treatment of epoxy and snow softener than with the treatment of cation and blend softener. LC, WC, RC, B/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, 2HB/B, W/T were bigger with the treatment of cation and blend softener than with the treatment of epoxy and snow softener. Thereofre, with the treatment of epoxy and snow softener, drapability, crease resistance, air content were improved. With the treatment of cation and blend softener, pressing softness were improved.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.35-46
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in mean${\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. As seen in the study, it was found out that there was a difference in three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body even in the group of whom the body heights, measured by Martin's system, are alike. Due to such a difference in the three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body, it was found out to be a difference in drapability of the flare skirts. In order to have better fitness of the lower part of the body and to raise the visual effect, therefore, it is suggested that there need to develop a new model of the flare skirts considering three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body for the wearer or to take complementary measures for each body shape in case of applying traditional model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.684-695
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the mechanical properties on drapability in the peach skin-like finished fabrics. For this study, the samples used were 50 kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics. The mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compressional, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured with a KES-F system and drupe coefficient by drape tester. The relationship between the characteristic values and drape coefficicients of the peach skin-like finished fabrics results were obtained. 1. Peach skin-like finished fabric had $\pm$2o range of shearing, bending, compression, surface. properties, thickness and weight as compared with Japanese women's thin fabrics. The characteristic mixing values were better with the values of WC/T, W/T, etc. as compared with that of japanese women's thin fabrics. Accordingly, the peach skin-like finished fabrics had a little volume, excellent hanging and drapability as compared with japanese women's thin fabrics. 2. The drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabric had a high level of correlation between 2HB, G, WC, MIU, WT, MMD, 2HG, RT, W, B etc. of the mechanical properties. The blocked properties that contributed to the drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabrics were in the order of the bending> tensile> thickness> weight properties. This drape coefficients(DC) were found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regress on equate on. DC=99.0179+17.9023 log G -17.0543 log 2HG5+17.2104 log 2HG+35.7685 log 2HB+ 4.6082 log B-30.5906 log T+4.2308 log W 3. The contribution to the drape coefficient of the characteristic mixing values of peach skin-like finished fabric was in the order of > 2HB/W> 2HB/B> B/W The drape coefficients were found by measuring the characteristic mixing values according to the obtained regression equation. 4. The drape coefficients of peach skin-like finished fabrics were influenced by the differences between the bending of warp direction, bending of weft direction, shearing etc which in turn determine the level of hanging. The regression equation was as follows; 5. The drape coefficients of peach skin.like finished fabrics had a highly positive correlation with the node index. It has an negative correlation with number of nodes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.