• 한국의류학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.49-53
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• 1981

This study was carried out to investigate the drapability of polyester double jersey skirt Drapability is an important aesthetic properties of fabric on clothing construction, In this thesis weight, shearing, bending and non-isotropic characteristics of fabric were regarded as important factors of drapability, Especially for drapability of skirt, I investigated hem effect on various length of hem and skirt, The results were as follows, 1. The less the weight of fabric was, the greater drapability appeared. On fabrics, large pliability and modulus of shear have good drapability, 2. On clothing cutting, non-isotropic property affected on drapability of clothes remark-ably. Drapability order of clothes was greatest in bias direction, next in wale, course direction, 3. The shorter the skirt length and closer at hem line were the larger the hem effect influence upon the drapability of skirt was.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.1025-1034
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the evaluation of fabric characteristics on the drapability, texture image and preference of blouse fabrics, and to analyze the effects of the texture image, objective and subjective drapability on the preference. As specimen, silk and polyester fabrics were collected. 52 female subjects evaluated 16 specimens with semantic differential scale of 18 fabric image and 20 sensibility. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlational coefficient using spss win 12.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. The results were as follows: The evaluation results of objective and subjective drapability showed differences. Sensory image factors of blouse fabrics were 'surface smoothness', 'elasticity', 'weight' and 'flexibility'. Sensibility image factors were 'elegance', 'classic', 'characteristic' and 'mannish'. 'Elegance', 'classic' and 'characteristic' of sensibility images showed high correlation with 'surface smoothness' and 'elasticity' of sensory image, also 'mannish' of sensibility image showed significant correlation with 'weight' of sensory image. The significant fabric characteristics affecting objective drapability were density, weight, thickness. The significant texture image factors affecting objective drapability were 'weight', 'flexibility' of sensory image and 'elegance' of sensibility image. On the other hand, the significant factors affecting subjective drapability were thickness of fabric characteristics and 'elegance', 'characteristic', 'mannish' of sensibility images. 'Elegance', 'characteristic' and 'classic' of sensibility image, 'elasticity' of sensory image and subjective drapability affected on the purchase preference.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.460-464
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.128-136
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• 2014

The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1723-1729
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• 2006

드레이프성은 직물의 최종용도를 결정하는데 매우 중요한 요소이다. 본 연구에서는 남녀 수트직물의 드레이프 특성을 분석하여 수트직물로서의 선호도와의 관계를 연구하였다. 본 연구에 사용된 직물은 남자 수트직물 중 봄/여름 용 60가지, 가을/겨울 용 60가지, 여자 수트직물 중 봄/여름 용 70가지, 가을/겨울 용 142가지로 총 332종류를 사용하여 이들의 주관적 인 태, 수트직물로서의 선호도를 조사하였다. 주관적인 태는 자체 개발한 9점 척도의 질문지를 사용하여 측정하였으며 이 때 7점 척도를 사용하여 직물선호도도 함께 조사하였다. 주관적 인 태는 질문지를 구성하는 20개의 태표현 형용사를 요인분석을 통하여 용도에 따라 5가지의 요인으로 표현하였다. 용도에 따른 수트직물의 드레이프 특성을 분석하기 위하여 직물의 드레이프성을 Cusick 드레이프 측정기를 사용하여 측정하였다. 드레이프계수, 굴곡수, 굴곡의 높이, 굴곡의 파장 등을 측정하여 통계적으로 분석하였다. 이러한 드레이프 특성치들의 계절에 따른 차이와 남자와 여자직물의 차이를 살펴보았다. 남녀 수트직물 모두에서 드레이프성은 태 표현 요인으로 나타났으며 여성용 수트직물에서는 직물선호도와 관계가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 여성 춘하용 직물에서는 선호되는 직물과 선호되지 않는 직물간에 드레이프 계수에 통계적 인 유의한 차이는 없었으나 굴곡수와 굴곡의 파장에는 차이가 있어 드레이프의 형태에는 차이가 있었다. 여성 추동직물에서는 선호되는 직물의 드레이프 계수가 0.6-0.7로 너무 부드럽거나 뻣뻣한 직물은 선호하지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 남자의 수트직물에서는 주관적인 태를 나타내는 주요요인으로 추동직물에서는 드레이프성이 추출되었으나 춘하직물에서는 추출되지 않았다. 추동직물에서 선호되는 직물과 선호되지 않는 직물간에 측정된 드레이프특성에 차이가 나타나지 않아 소비자들이 느끼는 드레이프성을 좀더 민감하게 대변할수 있는 드레이프 측정 방법의 개발이 필요하다. 계절에 따른 차이로 남녀 모두에서 유의한 차이가 나타났으며 드레이프 계수는 여성춘하직물이 가장 높아 0.72였으며 남성 추동> 남성 춘하> 여성 추동의 순으로 감소하였다. 굴곡의 높이도 드레이프 계수와 같은 경향을 나타냈다. 남성복에서는 춘하직물이 추동직물보다 드레이프성이 좋았으며 여성복은 반대의 경향을 나타냈다. 남녀 직물간에도 차이가 있어 춘하직물은 남성 수트직물이 여성직물에 비하여 드레이프성이 좋았으며 추동직물에서는 여성 직물의 드레이프성이 더 좋았다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.38-47
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical properties and grain line of fabrics on the drape properties of the flare skirt. Horizontal section overlap map was obtained by three dimensional Moire Topography, It was concluded drapability of the skirt obtained by the map can be used to determine the ease of the skirt. Grain line such as bias and lengthwise direction showed the difference of quality of the drape at the hem line; skirt made by bias direction showed evenly distributed flare and effective for the aesthetic point view. No difference was observed between cotton and polyester fabrics probably due to the similar characteristics of the fabrics.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.149-155
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• 1995

In this study, the formative property of flare skirts is carry out by the shape horizontal sections of hem line. Flare skirts was made by 10 kinds of fabrics with different physical properties. the length of flare skirts was 60cm. The main results obtained are as follows ; 1, The shape horizontal sections of hem line has differed with number of nodes and fabrics properties, in direction of texture. 2. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability decreased in order from Polyester/nylon(20/80)>Polyester(twill, thickness 0.2441)>Polyester(plain, thickness0.3760)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3687)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3101). 3. The correlation between the number of nodes and wave-height of modes and breadth showed a high negative correlation with the drapability of fabrics.