• Title/Summary/Keyword: Drapability

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A Study on Drapability for Construction of Skirt -Mainly dealing with the Drape-Coefficient and Hem-Effect- (Skirt 구성 면에서 본 Drap 성에 관한 연구 -Drape 계수와 Hem 효과를 중심으로-)

  • Suh Young Suk;Park Young Deuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.49-53
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    • 1981
  • This study was carried out to investigate the drapability of polyester double jersey skirt Drapability is an important aesthetic properties of fabric on clothing construction, In this thesis weight, shearing, bending and non-isotropic characteristics of fabric were regarded as important factors of drapability, Especially for drapability of skirt, I investigated hem effect on various length of hem and skirt, The results were as follows, 1. The less the weight of fabric was, the greater drapability appeared. On fabrics, large pliability and modulus of shear have good drapability, 2. On clothing cutting, non-isotropic property affected on drapability of clothes remark-ably. Drapability order of clothes was greatest in bias direction, next in wale, course direction, 3. The shorter the skirt length and closer at hem line were the larger the hem effect influence upon the drapability of skirt was.

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Effect of the Drapability and the Texture Image on the Purchase Preference of Blouse Fabrics (블라우스용 소재의 드레이프성과 질감이미지가 구매선호도에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Yeo-Won;Pan, Hong-Yu;Na, Mi-Hee;Choi, Jong-Myoung
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.1025-1034
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study was to examine the evaluation of fabric characteristics on the drapability, texture image and preference of blouse fabrics, and to analyze the effects of the texture image, objective and subjective drapability on the preference. As specimen, silk and polyester fabrics were collected. 52 female subjects evaluated 16 specimens with semantic differential scale of 18 fabric image and 20 sensibility. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlational coefficient using spss win 12.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. The results were as follows: The evaluation results of objective and subjective drapability showed differences. Sensory image factors of blouse fabrics were 'surface smoothness', 'elasticity', 'weight' and 'flexibility'. Sensibility image factors were 'elegance', 'classic', 'characteristic' and 'mannish'. 'Elegance', 'classic' and 'characteristic' of sensibility images showed high correlation with 'surface smoothness' and 'elasticity' of sensory image, also 'mannish' of sensibility image showed significant correlation with 'weight' of sensory image. The significant fabric characteristics affecting objective drapability were density, weight, thickness. The significant texture image factors affecting objective drapability were 'weight', 'flexibility' of sensory image and 'elegance' of sensibility image. On the other hand, the significant factors affecting subjective drapability were thickness of fabric characteristics and 'elegance', 'characteristic', 'mannish' of sensibility images. 'Elegance', 'characteristic' and 'classic' of sensibility image, 'elasticity' of sensory image and subjective drapability affected on the purchase preference.

Changes on Drapability and Mechanical Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics with Folded Yarn Conditions (위편성물의 합사조건에 따른 역학특성과 드레이프성의 변화)

  • Kim, Mi-Ra;Jeon, Youn-Hee;An, Seung-Kook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.460-464
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.

Drape Evaluation of 3D Garment Simulations for Flared Skirts

  • Lee, Joohyun;Kim, Hyun Ah;Nam, Yun Ja;Ryu, Hyo Seon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.128-136
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    • 2014
  • The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.

A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability

  • Song, Mi-Ryong;Yang, Soo-Yung
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.80-96
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    • 1999
  • This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

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A Study on Flare Skirt Pattern by Utilizing CAD System (어패럴 CAD시스템을 활용한 플레어 스커트 연구)

  • 류경옥;송미령
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.139-148
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    • 1998
  • This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

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Preference of S/S men's suit fabrics according to gender and age groups (성별과 연령에 따른 춘하 남성 정장 소재의 선호도 분석)

  • Ju, Jeong-Ah;Ryu, Hyo-Seon
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.609-616
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

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Analysis of Drapability of Men's & Women's Suit Fabrics (남녀 수트직물의 드레이프성 분석)

  • Lee, Mee-Sik;Kim, Eui-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.12 s.159
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    • pp.1723-1729
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    • 2006
  • Drapability is an important factor determining the end-use of fabrics. In this research, characteristics of drapability of men's and women's suit fabrics were analyzed. The hand and the preference for suit fabrics were measured by the subjective and objective evaluations. To find out the details of the drapability characteristics of suit fabrics, the drape was measured by using Cusick drape tester and was processed by image analysis software. Seasonal difference was obvious both in men's and women's fabrics. The average drape ratio of women's S/S suit fabrics showed the highest value, 0.724, then decreased in the order of men's F/W> men's S/S> women's FW. Wave amplitude showed the same order to the drape ratio. Men's fabrics were more drapable in spring and summer season rather than in fall and winter season. Women's fabrics showed the opposite trend, in other words, S/S suit fabrics were less drapable than F/W fabrics. There was also a significant difference in drape ratio between men's and women's fabrics regardless of season. For S/S, men's fabrics were more drapable than women's ones, whereas, for F/W, women's fabrics were more drapable.

A Study on the Drapability and the Shape of the Flare Skirt -by $moir\'{e}$ Topography method- (Flare Skirt의 Drape성과 착장형태파악에 관한 연구 -$Moir\'{e}$ Photograph법을 중심으로-)

  • Kim Hae-kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.38-47
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    • 1991
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical properties and grain line of fabrics on the drape properties of the flare skirt. Horizontal section overlap map was obtained by three dimensional Moire Topography, It was concluded drapability of the skirt obtained by the map can be used to determine the ease of the skirt. Grain line such as bias and lengthwise direction showed the difference of quality of the drape at the hem line; skirt made by bias direction showed evenly distributed flare and effective for the aesthetic point view. No difference was observed between cotton and polyester fabrics probably due to the similar characteristics of the fabrics.

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Drape property of fabrics and Shape horizontal section of hem line of flare skirt (직물의 Drape 특성과 Flare Skirt의 헴라인 단면 형상)

  • 이수정
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.33 no.4
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    • pp.149-155
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    • 1995
  • In this study, the formative property of flare skirts is carry out by the shape horizontal sections of hem line. Flare skirts was made by 10 kinds of fabrics with different physical properties. the length of flare skirts was 60cm. The main results obtained are as follows ; 1, The shape horizontal sections of hem line has differed with number of nodes and fabrics properties, in direction of texture. 2. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability decreased in order from Polyester/nylon(20/80)>Polyester(twill, thickness 0.2441)>Polyester(plain, thickness0.3760)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3687)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3101). 3. The correlation between the number of nodes and wave-height of modes and breadth showed a high negative correlation with the drapability of fabrics.

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