• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2015

Dahoe is a traditional Korean term for cords and Dongdahoe for round cords. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the structure of a semi-automatic loom depicted in the paintings of Jun Geun Kim, and verify whether it actually worked or not. Jun Geun Kim is a genre painter of the late Joseon Dynasty. His nom de plume is Gisan and he drew genre paintings for foreigners who visited Korea in the late 19th century. These paintings are important in understanding the lifestyle and custom of the times. His paintings at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin in Germany and the British Museum in England both depict a semi automatic loom that operates two looms at the same time. This is a unique loom that is not found in any other country and currently no artifacts of such loom exist in Korea. The study went through the following steps: We first analyzed the structure and the operating mechanism of the loom in the painting. The structure of each parts and their roles were also analyzed. Then a loom that was similar in structure and size was made to check if it was operational. The loom depicted in the paintings had some problems, and adjustments to fix the said problems were made accordingly. Wood was primarily used to make the $80{\times}90cm$ loom. The loom was used to make Dahoe and the study confirmed that there were no differences between the handmade Dongdahoe and the Dongdahoe made with the semi automatic loom.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제17권
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• pp.69-84
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• 2016

유소는 족자를 걸기 위한 끈의 역할을 한다. 본 연구는 기존 어진과 공신도상의 유소 연구결과를 기반으로 사대부상의 유소에 초점을 맞추어 연구하였다. 조사대상은 국립중앙박물관 소장 초상화에 장착된 유소 7점으로 형태와 제작 재료에 관해 분석하였다. 그 결과 대부분 16사의 동다회로 6점은 홍색, 1점은 쪽색으로 제작되어 전형적인 사대부상 유소의 형태를 보이고 있었다. 분석 결과 윤급 초상(덕3503)은 종이에 금박을 입힌 것이며, 금 아래 적색 안료 입자는 Fe로, 산화철 계통의 안료인 석간주가 사용된 것으로 보인다. 신임 초상(덕수4846)은 속지의 주성분이 금으로 납, 수은, 은이 소량 확인되었고, 이성원 초상(본10122)은 주성분이 Ag로 은지인 것이 확인되었다. 이서구 초상(신1065)은 주성분이 Ag, Fe, Br이며 속지는 가죽으로 제작되었다. 가죽을 FTIR로 분석한 결과 지문 영역에서 양가죽의 스펙트럼과 거의 일치하고 있어, 양가죽을 가공한 피금(皮金)인 것으로 확인되었다.