• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.245-260
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• 2010

Collaboration among various fields appear according to rising of snack culture, polarizing phenomenon by a point to value, consumer behavior change giving importance to direct experience, and arrival of high touch age satisfied various needs and desires of consumer. Collaboration progressed limited edition form utilizes famous artist and designer's fame to promote products and upgrade their brand image through a short period agreement. This research aims at analysis about collaboration phenomenon in collaboration manners and characteristics, and understands changed socio-cultural meaning through collaboration expressed in almost all industry for high speedy changing fashion environment. This research utilizes between theoretical study and empirical analysis. For concentrated study, research period limits from 2007 to the present time 2009. This paper's purpose is studying on the socio-cultural meaning through analysis about characteristics of the trend of collaboration expressed in contemporary fashion. This research's results are as follow as; First, common life toward aesthetic surrounding, Second, introduction of high concept, Third, the power of Homo Consmus, Forth, focusing on the intangible elements and the value. This study intends to predict change of fashion design and fashion market for complicated consumer, and present fundamental materials about fashion industry and design development of the future through consideration on concrete aspect and meaning of collaboration expressed in contemporary fashion.

• International Journal of Contents
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.101-118
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• 2021

The prevalence of We-Media short videos has attracted emerging independent fashion designers (EIFD), a new force in the fashion industry directing their brand promotion to We-Media for amassing online followers. However, compared to famous content generators, EIFDs' creative, design-based visual appeal has not provided them with the significant edge. The former's success is admittedly supported by the platform backstage algorithm. Yet, the content is the cornerstone for building relationship between the sender and the reception. The authentic perception of the content is one of the basic appeals for which the audience chooses to follow the source. Therefore, with the EIFD short video as the research content, this study is established from the audience's perspective to understand the different dimensions of their authentic perceptions of EIFDs short video. The study was conducted mainly in the form of the Q method. The collection of 52 Q samples were realized through the Focus Group Interview and literature review on multidimensional authenticity. Thirty-six subjects participated in the sorting of the Q-sets. Finally, four dimensions of audience authenticity perceptions of EIFDs were derived: 'ingenuity', 'relevant', 'transparent', and 'experiential'. The corresponding short video content design strategies are suggested for effective communication of EIFDs and their personal brands.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.33-49
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.279-288
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• 2004

기업 내 디자인 작업은 과거의 전문직으로서의 폐쇄된 직능과 소극적 역할에서 현재의 성공적 제품 생산을 위한 기획, 마케팅, 기술은 물론 기업 브랜드 이미지 차별화를 위한 전략 구축 등의 적극적인 역할로 확대되었다. 그래서 디자이너가 타부서와의 의사교통은 물론 중요한 결정이나 정보 공유, 객관적 판단 등에 참여하거나 주도해야 하는 경우가 점차 늘어나고 있다. 이와 같이 디자인 작업은 협동 업무를 전제조건으로 하지만 디자인 프로세스의 조형작업(styling)은 디자이너의 직관이나 경험 등 주관성을 기초로 전개되는 특성을 가져 제품개발에 관계되는 구성원 사이에서 심지어는 한 디자인팀 안에서도 여러 형태의 장애로 표출된다. 이러한 점을 극복하고 보다 더 효율적인 디자인 결정 과정을 유도하고 제품의 형태를 개발, 평가 및 관리를 체계화할 수 있는 수단이 필요하게 되었다. 본 연구에서는 이의 기초가 될 수 있는 제품 형태가 표현하는 형상(image) 뒤에 숨은 조형적 원인이나 질서(객관적 체계 또는 공유할 수 있는 논리)를 실험을 통해 발견할 수 있다는 가설을 세우고 증명하였다. 이 실험의 결과로서, 시각적 개성의 표현인 조형에 관계하는 요인과 이들의 성향이나 상호역할의 체계를 규명하였다. 이 요인을 조형변수로, 또 이 체계를 정합적 제품 형태 전개 방법이라 명명하고, 이 과정에서 도출된 논리를 기초로 개발과정에서 목표한 형상에 정합적으로 접근하는 과정을 설명하였다. 이는 디자이너의 직관적 창의성과 추론적 논리성의 균형을 설정하는 방법으로서, 이 논리와 체계가 디자이너간에 공유할 수 있는 조형언어의 틀이 되고 타부서와의 의사교통에도 도움이 되는 하나의 지원 수단으로 제안된다. 이를 통해 디자이너는 목표한 이미지에 정합적으로 접근하여, 형태 전개 범위를 집중시키고 개발기간을 단축하기 위한 방법으로 사용하여 조형작업에 수반되는 불필요한 장애나 오류를 최소화할 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.173-180
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• 2013

As a way to raise the brand value of each area and activate local industries, public design projects have been competitively made. Meanwhile, public design has the characteristics of having an uncertain number of users, people with different interests, and management of the design by an administrative organization. Such characteristics may be obstacles to the results of public design and finally can cause many problems in a project's results. However, although most local governments have executed public design projects, systematic research for them and organized execution of the projects has been insufficient. For successful realization, proper organization, and consistent public design, research on a strategic design process is needed. Therefore, this study investigated the current status of public design projects to understand problems in the design process and solve them. The results are presented as follows: First, the design process for public spaces has a dual structure including a specialized process of design development in its execution and management and the execution process in the planning state is unsatisfactory and the process of designer selection is not consistent. Second, as a result of investigating the current status of the design process for public spaces, it was deduced that as most of the projects have been subjectively and temporarily managed by wholly charged organizations without specialized consultation or investigation with different related departments, there have been diverse problems in securing design quality. Third, as a result of analysing the specific execution processes carefully, it was suggested that problems in the process can be solved by decisions through consultation and discussion. As well supportive consultation systems should be used actively.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.137-156
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the general status of wearing clothes and clothing purchase of middle-aged women in the 40's to 50's, the patterns and colors of clothes they prefer, clothing preference related with fitting or such, and also complaints. And this paper also divides the middle-aged women into those in the 40's and 50's to analyze how they differ in terms of the apparel brands and fitting they prefer and also the status of wearing clothes. For the research, a survey was performed to 350 women, and the survey data went through x2 and t-test analysis by using SPSS 20.0 to examine significant difference. The results of this study are as follows: the women in the 40's included as the subjects showed a high frequency of clothing purchase from casual brands or SPA brands and regarded design to be important at the clothing purchase. Meanwhile, the women in the 50's indicated a higher frequency of clothing purchase of middle-aged women's apparel brands, outdoor brands, madam clothes, or designer brands and thought activity to be crucial at the clothing purchase. As the women in the 40's and 50's showed difference in the brands they preferred, particularly the fitting indicated difference in terms of dissatisfaction. While those in the 40's preferring and buying young casual showed particularly more fitting problems in the arm-hole girth, upper arm circumference, bust size, and thigh or hip area, those in the 50's indicated fitting problems in the hip circumference or waist measurement. It is expected that this study will be used as foundational data to set up the target age by related apparel companies or develop clothes with great size fitting and design satisfaction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1302-1319
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the means by which designers communicate their philosophies and messages through fashion exhibitions, which are one of the communication methods that use visual images, by focusing on the aesthetics of fashion exhibition design. For this study, previous studies related to design exhibitions were analyzed, in addition to the related theoretical background, by examining the existing literature and conducting an illustrative study on fashion exhibitions. Our illustrative study focused on the aesthetic meanings of exhibitions held by the fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela over the past 10 years. According to our analyses, the fashion philosophy of fashion designer Martin Margiela's was reflected by Maison Martin Margiela in the exhibition design. After studying the features of Maison Martin Margiela's exhibition design, the inner values of deconstructivism and mysticism and appearance techniques of trompe-l'oeil, white spirit and assemblage were observed. This study aims to supply basic data for an active research on consilience and communication conducted in fashion communication field through a fashion exhibition designed to be seen as a work, an objet of the exhibition. In-depth studies on the cultural and aesthetical aspects of fashion exhibitions should be carried out, not only based on the sense of sight but also the senses of touch and hearing. Next, theories should be established on fashion scenography, to consider the use of the space design of fashion shows, presentations and advertising and movies to communicate fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.27-35
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• 2012

This study locates typical Korean fashion images in domestic and foreign fashion journals to advance Korea's international image in contemporary global fashion markets. The investigation of the frequency of articles and their types (so as to inquire into interest in Korean fashion in the global fashion markets) showed that for the appearance frequency of domestic articles studied, a good number of articles were published in the first half of 2008 and in 2009. In the case of foreign articles, the number of them increased from the second half of 2008 and the majority of articles were shown in the first half of 2010. Second, the investigation of the appearance features by article type studied in order to understand how Korean fashion played a role in the world's markets. The majority of articles were related to fashion brands that entered Chinese market in fashion brand articles in the case of domestic articles; however, many foreign articles introduced designers that participated in global fashion collections in Paris and New York. Third, as a result of analyzing typical key words by article type in order to find key words which could enhance Korea's fashion national image representing, we could confirm that 'Korean designers' can be a typical key words to represent Korean fashion. The key word most exposed in both domestic and foreign articles was 'designer Lie Sang Bong' and only his articles contained the content about influential Korean design materials.