• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.93-105
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• 2018

Using FDM 3D printing, yarn shape and composition were modeled and 3D printed with PLA and TPU filaments currently used for apparel. Based on this, mechanical characteristics were measured to determine 3D printing yarn according to type of filaments in the 3D printed output and deformation and recovery characteristics due to differences in structure type. As a result of examining tensile and shear characteristics of PLA and TPU 3D printing compiles, TPU overall was measured with significantly lower stress than PLA. This is due to high elasticity of TPU's character, revealing that it has better flexibility than PLA. In addition, during deformation due to external forces, the more freedom between the head and foot parts of the loop, and the lower the force associated with each other, the more flexible it is. TPU revealed that it was easier to tension and recovery from tensile deformation than PLA, indicating potential for clothing materials using 3D printing. If high-molecular materials, such as PLA flexibility, it is likely to provide some flexibility through development of styles, including degree of freedom in modeling. Based on this, we provide basic data for developing 3D printing textures that can be satisfied with textile for apparel.

• International Journal of Aeronautical and Space Sciences
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.215-221
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• 2017

An electromagnetic (EM) wave absorber reduces the possibility of radar detection by minimizing the radar cross section (RCS) of structures. In this study, a radar absorbing structure (RAS) was applied to the leading edge of a blended wing body aircraft to reduce RCS in X-band (8.2~12.4GHz) radar. The RAS was composed of a periodic pattern resistive sheet with conductive lossy material and glass-fiber/epoxy composite as a spacer. The applied RAS is a multifunctional composite structure which has both electromagnetic (EM) wave absorbing ability and load-bearing ability. A two dimensional unit absorber was designed first in a flat-plate shape, and then the fabricated leading edge structure incorporating the above RAS was investigated, using simulated and free-space measured reflection loss data from the flat-plate absorber. The leading edge was implemented on the aircraft, and its RCS was measured with respect to various azimuth angles in both polarizations (VV and HH). The RCS reduction effect of the RAS was evaluated in comparison with a leading edge of carbon fabric reinforced plastics (CFRP). The designed leading edge structure was examined through static structural analysis for various aircraft load cases to check structural integrity in terms of margin of safety. The mechanical and structural characteristics of CFRP, RAS and CFRP with RAM structures were also discussed in terms of their weight.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-240
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• 2001

The purpose of the present study was to analyze the acceptance level of forecasted information of casual wear in tate 1990s in Korea and the way of utilizing fashion trends information by casual wear industries. The Present study was implemented by content analysis and descriptive survey using questionnaire and interview. Trends information in fashion journals published by fashion institute and articles in daily newspapers were analyzed in terms of fashion image, color, fabric, and silhouette. The data collected from questionnaire and interview with 113 fashion specialists were analyzed through frequency, percentage. The results indicated that among the forecasted information regarding fashion image, romantic and feminine images showed a high level of acceptance to national brand women's casual wear in the late 1990s, while mannish image showed a low level of acceptance. For men's casual wear in the same time period, androgynous trends appeared most frequently, not only in forecasted information, but also in actual trend. it was forecasted that yellow, white, and gray would be in trend and those colors appeared frequently in actual trend. On the other hand pastel tone appeared much more frequently than forecasted. Natural, thin - transparent (S/S) and stretch fabrics (F/W) were in actual trend as it was forecasted. Fit and Pare (woman), and long and slim (man) silhouettes were in actual trend as if was forecasted, but barrel silhouette appeared only in forecasted information. Most of the information forecasting fashion trends for next season were applied to the product planning of the season, right after the information comes out.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.934-945
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the content and presentation style of consumer information of Korean young casual apparel brand. To collect the data for this study, the representative 25 casual brand web sites were selected, based on major search engines. In addition, to investigate exact product information, four product categories, knit shirts and casual pants for men and women, were selected and the number of products was limited as maximum 15 products per each category. A coding instrument was developed to capture the consumer information, based on the instrument by Park and Stoel(2002). The Pretest was conducted to gauge inter-coder reliability and the results showed that inter-coder reliability was highly acceptable. The results of this study were as follows. Most casual brand web sites for this study were presented well in brand and customer service information. Especially, many web sites provided various engaging information such as various events(best dresser contest, date with a star, special gift) and useful multimedia file(MP3 music file, screen saver, movie, calender). However, product information was very lack in most web sites. Especially, sizing and fitting information and textile and fabric hand information were rarely provided. Therefore, this result showed that the web sites should provide more specific product information and develop devices to get tactile sensory and experiential information for enhancement of future e-commerce of apparel products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.922-927
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• 2015

Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be 'balanced' or 'regular', with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.48-57
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.141-152
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• 2009

In this study, the business structure and characteristics of buying offices used by buyers for apparel productions through global sourcing were analyzed in specifics. Data were acquired through in-depth interviews of twelve merchandisers at representative apparel buying offices. The results of this study can be summarized as following. The business structure of a buying office varied depending on the functions, the item characteristics of products to be manufactured or the characteristics of the major buyers who were the customers. Overall, teams were formed by brands or organizations were formed by functions. Functional teams were divided within each brand team when business teams were divided by brands and personnel was divided by brands occasionally within each functional team when business teams were divided by functions. Business teams were composed of MR which managed the overall business about orders such as factory sourcing, price decision and production management and teams with various specialized skills. The teams with specialized skills were composed of Technical team, Fabric Development team, Colorist team, Quality Assurance (QA) or Quality Control (QC) team, Logistics team, Factory Audit team, and etc. For the future directions on the improvements, ways to increase international competitiveness of buying offices need to be researched and many expressed the opinion that it would be effective to move the offices to countries close to buyers or manufacturing locations as most buyers demand lower prices and shorter lead time than before and it is increasing trend for buyers and factories to do business directly without buying offices in the middle.

• Proceedings of the Korean Geotechical Society Conference
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• 2004.03b
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• pp.203-210
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• 2004

Consolidation properties were analysed by means of depositional environments. Depositional environments including geochemical properties, porewater chemistry, sediment structures, particle size distributions and carbon age dating were analysed using undisturbed samples retrieved successively from a boring hole in the study area. Laboratory oedometer tests and anisotropic consolidated triaxial tests(CKoUC) were performed to examine the overconsolidation phenomenons. Based on the carbon age dating results and profiles of geochemical properties, porewater chemistry, salinity and pH, it was founded that the upper silt/clay complex layer was deposited under marine condition while sand and clay layers were deposited under fluvial condition. Planar laminated structures of silts and clays were dominant in marine deposits. Although there was no clear evidences that geological erosion had been occurred in marine deposits, overconsolidation ratio obtained from oedometer tests were greater than unity. Stress paths of samples behaved similar to those of normally consolidated clays. Data plotted in stress state charts proposed by Burland(1990) and Chandler(2000) showed that the marine deposits were geologically normally consolidated. These apparent overconsolidations can be explained by the fabric and chemical bonding due to the difference of the rate of deposition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.455-463
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the actual conditions of clothing of disabled adult men using wheelchair, to understand dissatisfactions and problems in wearing garment, and to construct basic data to development of the formal wear for wheelchair user. This study conducted survey of 162 men using wheelchair who regularly enjoy the sports for disabled people or who work in society. The results of this study are follows. The majority of wheelchair user tend to wear garment lying or seating. Therefore, they prefer garments that can be easily put on and off. They were dissatisfied mostly with the size of ready-made garment. More than 75% of the subjects tend to repair the purchased formal wear. Shoulder width and bust circumference are too small, jacket length, sleeve length, and slacks length are too big for disabled men using wheelchair. More than 93% subjects tend to prefer T-shirts, because of comfort and easiness to move. The men using wheelchair consider the function and the hygiene of fabric material for T-shirts as the important end.