Kim, Tae-Gyou;Park, Soon-Jee;Park, Jung-Whan;Suh, Chu-Yeon;Choi, Sin-Ae
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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v.14
no.2
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pp.277-285
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2012
This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.
The aim of this study was to provide data to enable the development of skateboarding pants. From the Chinese skateboard club SNS, 126 skateboarders in their 20s and 30s were chosen to participate in a survey. Data was gathered using a questionnaire from May 14 to May 28, 2021, and then analyzed using SPSS 23. The results concerning production were as follows: clothing sizes are generally divided into six stages: XS, S, M, L, XL, and 2XL. The silhouette is wide, and most pants have e-bands and normal hems. The pants are made from cotton-blend fabric, which is mostly moisture-absorbing and quick-drying. Baggy pants are preferred by skateboarders, with cotton being the most common fabric. The crotch, knees, and buttocks of pants are the least satisfying for skateboarders. When they skateboard, their ankles sustain the most injuries, followed by their knees and wrists. In the survey of consumers' preferences for skateboarding pants, different styles were rated in the following order: straight pant silhouette, ribbed knit and string waistband design; full-rise waist height, string hemline design; and ankle-high pants length (fit), fabric and design. The hygroscopicity and ventilation of the fabric are crucial considerations when purchasing pants. In terms of color, chromatic and pastel colors are most popular. In addition, some people expect new fibers to be used and expect protective equipment and pants to be integrated.
Journal of the Institute of Electronics Engineers of Korea SD
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v.49
no.4
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pp.15-25
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2012
The research on the FPGA CAD tools in academia has been lacking practicality due to the underlying FPGA fabric architecture which is too simple and inefficient to be applied for commercial FPGAs. Recently, the database of placement positions and routing graphs on commercial FPGA architectures has been built, and provided for enabling the academic development of placement and routing tools. To extend the limit of academic CAD tools even further, we have developed the evaluation toolkit for the K-FPGA architecture which is under development. By providing interface for exchanging data with a commercial FPGA toolkit at every step of mapping, packing, placement and routing in the tool chain, the toolkit enables individual tools to be developed without waiting for the results of the preceding step, and with no dependency on the quality of the results, and compared in detail with commercial tools at any step. Also, the fabric primitive library is developed by extracting the prototype from a reporting file of a commercial FPGA, restructuring it, and modeling the behavior of basic gates. This library can be used as the benchmarking target, and a reference design for new FPGA architectures. Since the architecture is described in a standard HDL which is familiar with hardware designers, and read in the tools rather than hard coded, the tools are "data-driven", and tolerable with the architectural changes due to the design space exploration. The experiments confirm that the developed library is correct, and the functional correctness of applications implemented on the FPGA fabric can be validated by simulation. The placement and routing tools are under development. The completion of the toolkit will enable the development of practical FPGA architectures which, in return, will synergically animate the research on optimization CAD tools.
The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.
On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.
This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.
The mend for fabric products has been increased remarkably with increasing population, housings, mutistory buildings,...and etc. during the last two decades. However, since fabrics are highly combustible and can produce toxic gases during the combution, fabric products can result in serious human injury as well as financial damage. Acknowledged by this, a new phosphorus based flame retardant suitable for PET fabric has been synthesized by making use of the reaction of diphenyl chloro phosphate and hexamethylenediamine. Since the starting meterials are relatively cheap and the yield of this reaction is high (more than 90%), this reaction seems to be very effective as wall as very economic. By analyzing various spectrophotometric analysis data such as NMR, FT-IR, and Mass, this new flame retardant is identified to be N,N’-Bis(diphenyl chlorophosphoro)diamino hexane. In the mean time, DSC measurement has shown that the melting point and the boiling point of this material are around 115$^{\circ}C$ and around 40$0^{\circ}C$, respectively. The flame retardancy test done on the PET fabric processed by this flame retardant have shown excellent in times of flame contact, times of flame contact for washable. The most economical finishing condition estimated 10% in concentration of BDPDH, Moreover, it has been also found that the drape stiffness of the PET fiber processed by the flame retartant is changed very litter compared to the unprocessed original PET fabrics. Judging from this, the potential of this new phosphrdus based compond as a flame retardant for PET fabric seems to be high.
This study analyzed and compared the color characteristics of preferred textiles for blouses and shirts of college students. After the survey of preference in fabrics for blouses and shirts of college students according to season, colors of preferred fabrics were analyzed. Spectral data were measured and a chromaticity diagram was drawn. The color of shirt fabric that college students preferred in the spring/fall was PB (Purple-Blue) and light shades, and in summer, PB color and pale shades. Generally achromatic black or a simple color that is close to an achromatic color, light and soft shades were preferred. For blouse fabric, PB, d (dull) and g (grayish) tones were preferred in spring/fall, G (Green) and It., d. were preferred in summer. Achromatic white and medium, soft shaded chromatic especially greenish colors were preferred. In spring fall, regardless of the clothing item, PB was the most preferred color. Y (Yellow) was the most preferred color for shirts, and for blouses, R (Red) was the most preferred. For achromatic color, black is preferred for shirts, white is preferred for blouses. In summer, the color of preferred shirt fabric was PB, and blouse fabric had a lot of G color. College students prefer simple colors which are close to achromatic colors, and light and soft color were preferred for shirt fabric and they preferred various, medium shaded and closer to pure colors for blouses because college students tend to consider the aesthetic side as important and usually wear blouses less often than shirts.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective sensations and preference for spring/fall casual cotton shirt fabrics, and to assist in developing shirt fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. The subjects of this study were male and female college students who assessed the tactile sensation of seven types of spring/fall shirt fabrics available on the market: plain weave and rib weave made of cotton and that of cotton mixed fabrics. The subjects were university students between the ages of 20 to 23, who were residing in the city of Cheongju, Korea. The questionnaires related to the fabrics hand were evaluated using a nine point bi-polar scale of 9 descriptive terms. Mean, t-test, F-test and $X^2$ were used for data analysis. The fabric hand evaluation on the seven types of shirts showed a significant difference in all of the 9 descriptive terms. There were partially significant differences in the subjective sensations according to fabric characteristics regarding shirt fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. In particular, female students responded with more sensitivity to the sensation of dense and wrinkle sensations. There were significant differences in the purchase preference according to gender regarding casual shirt fabrics. Plain weave fabrics made of cotton was most preferred among male students, whereas rib weave fabrics made of cotton/polyester was most preferred among female students.
The quick response(QR) system is very popular in Korean apparel companies. However, the usage of QR system was not known well. The purpose of this study is to identify the usage of the quick response decision support system(QR DSS) and postponement manufacturing in the Korean apparel company. The researched company was the only one which used the QR DSS. The researchers carried out the depth interview with the QR decision makers of the company. This company had 14 brands, and had used the QR DSS since January, 2008. The results are as follows: The QR DSS was supportive computer software program, and it helped the staffs to make agile decision about QR repeat production of clothing. The QR DSS automatically calculated the related data, and suggested the expected sales volume and the proper supply amounts of the styles. There were four functions in QR DSS : 'QR Alert', 'Proper Supply Amount Simulation', 'Sensible QR', and 'Supply/Sales Simulation by Item'. The men's clothing brands effectively used 'Supply/Sales Simulation by Item' function. And the women's clothing brands effectively used 'QR Alert' function. This company also used the postponement production system for QR repeat production. The postponement production was conducted with four methods : the yarn stocking, the grey fabric stocking, the dyed fabric stocking, and the fabric sourcing. The men's clothing brands usually used of the yarn stocking methods and the dyed fabric stocking methods. The women's clothing brands usually used the grey fabric stocking methods. By using QR DSS and postponement production system the company was able to shorten the lead time for QR decision making.
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