• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2023

Korea's original traditional costume designs have a great potential to be re-imagined from a global perspective and developed into high-value-added fashion culture products that can enter the international market. This study applied the structural features of traditional clothing to the design of fashion cultural products. This study developed designs using Beja, Sagyusam, Aekjuem-po, Danlyeong, Cheolrik, Jang-jegori of Korea. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first to conduct a literature survey of traditional Korean clothing. We designed shirts using Adobe Illustrator and created a pattern with the Yuka program. This design was applied to a three dimensional virtual dressing system called CLO. A survey of individual interest in developed fashion cultural products was also conducted. The shirt designs were obtained by applying the details and structural characteristics of traditional Korean clothing. Among the six shirt designs, when asked which design would be suitable for wearing, gifting, or uniform, the shirts with the design of Danlyeong, Beja, and Sagyusam were generally highly preferred. This study can be used as basic data for the global market for fashion cultural products, and can contribute to the inheritance and development of culture and tradition by maintaining Korea's uniqueness in the modern global era and increasing tourism revenue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.155-172
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• 2009

Naturalized words of clothing terms in Joseon Dynasty could be found on the foreign language study books such as Chinese language study books; "譯語類解Yeokeoyuhae", "譯語類解補編Yeokeoyuhae-supplementary book], and "華語類抄Hwaeoyucho", Manchu language study book; "同文類解Dongmunyuhae", Mongolian language study books; 蒙語類解Mongeoyuhae", and "蒙語類解補編Mongeoyuhae-supplementary book", Japanese language study books; "倭語類解Oaeeoyuhae", and "和語類解Hwaeoyuhae", and the study books of over two kinds of foreign language; "方言類解Bangeonyuseok", and "漢淸文鑑Hanchungmungam". This study focused on the name that was related with headgear, socks and clothing from those foreign language study books. The name which was originated in Chinese language is Cwan, Yanggwan, Dugeon, Samo, Bokdu, Jungja, Okjam, Cwanja, Hwa, Johwa, Unhye, Jobok, Danlyeong, Wonlyeong, Changyi, Dunja, Hosu, Dansam, Dopa, Bigye, Peak, Yodae, and Pumdae. The name which was originated in Manchu language is Camto, Nyeolku, Dalogi, kulimae, and Mahulae. The name which was originated in Mongolian language is Tyeolic, and Dugeule. There are two kinds of names that have been used continuously during the whole Joseon Dynasty. The first ones borrowed just name, for example, Cwan, Dugeon, Mahulae, Okjam, Hwa, Dansam, Changyi, kulimae, and Yodae. The second ones loaned the name and object, for example, Yanggwan, Samo, Bokdu, Camto, Jungja, Cwanja, Jobok, Dalogi, Danlyeong, Wonlyeong, Dopa, Tyeolic, Peak, and Pumdae. It was observed that among Korean names that have been used from the Joseon Dynasty, Unhye, Dugeule, and Hosu were used as broader meaning in the Joseon Dynasty. It was names that had not used during the whole Joseon Dynasty were Johwa, Nyeolku, and Bigye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.