• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.50 no.3
• /
• pp.64-87
• /
• 2017

Dahoe is a traditional braid in Joseon Dynasty. There are many Dahoe artifacts, which can give us a glimpse of the costume, culture, and life of that era. The study of Dahoe is necessary in various fields, but it is difficult because this manufacturing technique has been passed down from hand to hand. Few studies have been done so far. This research examines the manufacturing technique of KwangDahoe which is passed down by Maedeupjang (Decorative Knotting) and is generally used for knotting and/or tying objects. The main characteristic of TieKwangDahoe, made through the same method as WonDahoe, is the square hole in the middle. It was impossibile to remake the original braid because there is no confirmed number of the strand. Especially it is very difficult to do conservation and restoration on serious degradation state of the fiber. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the non-destructive manufacturing techniques method for Dahoe and assess their applicability. First, we analyzed the artifacts' manufacturing technique based on the database of the Dahoe's manufacturing technique. In order to do that, we undertook schematization, restoration, morphological analyzation of the Dahoe. And then, X-ray CT scans were performed to improve the reliability of the DB. These results of scanning were interpreted based on the manufacturing technique. The selected Tie-KwangDahoe on the sword for the study are artifacts including artistic value and symbolism in Joseon Dynasty. Based on the analysis of the manufacturing technique, we found that both artifacts were made of 20-strand braid of single cross according to the length-scale measure. It was manufactured using 8-strand on left-right side, 12-strand on front-back side by the braiding manufacturing technique method Finally, this research suggests non-destructive analysis method of Dahoe's manufacturing technique is based on the database and the analysis results. I hope this research can be useful in various professional fields of Dahoe in the future. Moreover, I hope this can be of any help in preserving Korean cultural heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.5
• /
• pp.133-148
• /
• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.6
• /
• pp.15-24
• /
• 2015

Dahoe is a traditional Korean term for cords and Dongdahoe for round cords. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the structure of a semi-automatic loom depicted in the paintings of Jun Geun Kim, and verify whether it actually worked or not. Jun Geun Kim is a genre painter of the late Joseon Dynasty. His nom de plume is Gisan and he drew genre paintings for foreigners who visited Korea in the late 19th century. These paintings are important in understanding the lifestyle and custom of the times. His paintings at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin in Germany and the British Museum in England both depict a semi automatic loom that operates two looms at the same time. This is a unique loom that is not found in any other country and currently no artifacts of such loom exist in Korea. The study went through the following steps: We first analyzed the structure and the operating mechanism of the loom in the painting. The structure of each parts and their roles were also analyzed. Then a loom that was similar in structure and size was made to check if it was operational. The loom depicted in the paintings had some problems, and adjustments to fix the said problems were made accordingly. Wood was primarily used to make the $80{\times}90cm$ loom. The loom was used to make Dahoe and the study confirmed that there were no differences between the handmade Dongdahoe and the Dongdahoe made with the semi automatic loom.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.712-727
• /
• 2014

Dahoejangs in the Joseon Dynasty were craftsmen who belonged in the Gyeonggongjang in Hansung government office. Out of 2,841 craftsmen who specialized in 129 types of work, 1 of them were Dahoejangs. Dahoejangs were craftsmen who made cords. However it was not passed down and currently Maedeupjangs are making cords and making Maedeup with the cords they have made. In the Uigwes the composition of Dahoejangs number and types of tools used in creating good for ceremonies are indicated. This study has found records of Dahoejangs from 50 Uigwes. The tools used were indicated as Haesagee, Hapsagee, Hapseongee, Yeonsagee, Sangsagee, Dahoegee, Yungjapan and some others. Haesagee is a tool that winds thread from a skein to a spool. Hapsagee is a tool that combines more than two yarns together. Hapseon is for combining thicker threads. Yeosagee is not a process of scouring for refining, but is assumed to be a tool to twisting yarn. There are no information left about the shape or working methods of Sangsagee but it is considered to be a tool for doubling several threads together. Based on the existing artifacts and painting of Dahoe, it is assumed that threads were woven on usually a round plate or bowl. Youngjapan is considered to be a tool for making tassels. This shows that Dahoejangs made tassels and it was completely separate from making Maedeups. There, it is evident that Dahoejangs made cords as well as tassels but the work of Maedeupjang were constricted to only making Maedeup with the cords given to them.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.54 no.3
• /
• pp.52-67
• /
• 2021

This study is an attempt to explore the roles of and the collaborative relationship between Daheojang and Maedeupjang. Daheojang and Maedeupjang share a similar manufacturing process. However, in modern times, Daheojang totally disappeared, and Maedeupjang was designated as an intangible cultural property. The present study will investigate the role of Daheojang and Maedeupjang based on the literature of the Joseon dynasty. Daheojang were craftsmen who made bands and strings of woven or twisted silk strands. They made mangsu and tassels or made knots to produce magnificent artifacts. Maedeupjang complete all steps of the process, from refining, dyeing, combining threads, daheo, maedeup, to the tassel. Daheojang in the Joseon dynasty was the center of this process. Daheojang belonged to almost all Uigwe because it used items ranging from large uso to cushion straps. Dahoe is a craft with various items and techniques. It has been widely used to produce majestic items like formal dresses, ritual ceremony pieces, and mountings, as well as daily items like jodae, pocket straps, and norigae. Based on the records of Uigwe in the late Joseon dynasty, the study explored the collaborative relationship between Daheojang and Maedeupjang. Sambang, the room where both Daheojang and Maedeupjang belong, was the room to produce the royal chair. The royal chair essentially includes large uso. The large uso is an artifact that ties a knot in a thick circle more than two meters long. While Daheojang made rounded daheo, Maedeupjang made delicate and balanced knots. Also, they produced royal inscriptions together with a royal seal with decorative mangsu and a seal of thick rounded daheo. In order to learn about traditional technology, it is necessary to study the system of the times and social trends. Therefore, the study focused on Daheojang, who were common master craftsmen during the Joseon dynasty but now are not familiar to most people.