• 복식
• /
• 제51권5호
• /
• pp.157-173
• /
• 2001

In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권6호
• /
• pp.101-117
• /
• 2004

Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that show comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satisfaction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body

• 한국가구학회지
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.103-109
• /
• 2012

King Muryeong reungeseo Foot-rest on the subject of the king excavated a USB memory design. Foot-rest of the form and the meaning of patterns were expressed on a USB memory. Minds of ordinary people in these times communicator acts as an intermediary in the sky to give a sense of the king, such as Foot-rest patterns carved on the engraved turtle. Closely related to modern life, as cultural products associated with the computer by connecting supplies of products for some tourists, not only about reaching the wider public should focus on development. Meanwhile, the USB memory could not be seen in the case of natural wood material by using the age and the individual tastes of consumers represents USB memory into the merit of portability, necklaces pendants items for restoration, phone strap, key chain, etc. By combining the functionality increases. Meanwhile, on the basis of a practical item, the largest issue was the consumption of cultural products by maximizing the economic benefit of the community and at the same time a symbol of cultural heritage items have been transformed into the effectiveness of the national image enhancement is expected to be achieved.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.105-110
• /
• 2007

With the beginning of seventeenth century, the men in France royal palace began to wear wigs and by eighteenth century wig became sole possession of men. Then, it had been become a satire thing filling one side of the era with the pouf that had been for women. All these things were closely related with the unstable social situation. The bourgeoisie expressed the anger for the privilege that come from the disparity of class consciousness. The reaction against the discriminative treatment by the illuminists stimulated the outbreak of the French Revolution on 14th, July in 1789. This paved way of characterizing the wig styles of the time. The symbolism of cultural-historical meaning in the west is not confined only in Europe. The worship of hair that is different from one cultural area to another had started with their own unique taboo consciousness and had developed to the form speaking for the expression of masculine, the symbol of man power and the extravagance of the privileged class.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제15권1호
• /
• pp.31-45
• /
• 2013

Fashion appears as a similar sense of form in a regularly cyclical way. The part highlighted in the female body also becomes that way. The social and cultural problem of fashion is also a matter about the selection of a wearer on how to wear in what environment. Power dressing means an attire that makes you feel dignity, intelligence or power and an attire that is needed to succeed in the business society. It is based on the fact that women started wearing tailored suits that were regarded as the exclusive item of men as the women's social activity was actively progressing. The purpose of the study is to analyze the problem of styles in the social and cultural perspectives. The power dressing was repeatedly appeared in 1930s, 1980s and 2000s. Therefore, this study collected photo data and literature documents to analyze and compare shoulders represented during these three periods, and to examine what social cultural environment was operated for each period and how the designers of each period expressed with clothes. Power dressing is characterized by the use of shoulder pad for the first time for 1930s, the extended shoulder for 1980s and the design the extended shoulder with the more decorative method for 2000s. Power dressing has been utilized as women's gain and improvement of social status, flaunting of economical status and a symbol of individuality and identity.

• 중국학논총
• /
• 제62호
• /
• pp.71-84
• /
• 2019

Brothel in China is another word of origin and a noble expression at the same time. Brothel has long been used as a symbol of prestige and wealth as a synonym for integrity innocence. According to documentary records, brothel was used as a place where people with a lot of power and wealth. This meaning in the literature continued until the Late Tang period. In addition, the brothel was also used to refer to the place where the King resides. Therefore, the meaning of Brothel in the Tang period is generally understood as a place where people with high status symbolize the integrity of innocence. However, the image of the brothel, which is connected to the characteristics of a lot of young and beautiful women is increasingly recognized as a place where young ladies reside. For this reason, entering the Tang period the brothel eventually turned into a dwelling of a young woman in a prestigious and wealthy house. Since the time of Ming-Qing, brothel has already been used to refer to prostitute and brothel. In this article, we will look at the historical process of the change of brothel, and examine the process of brothel culture through the environment of brothel and cultural literacy of residents. We hope that this study will provide new perspectives and data to the study of women's cultural history in China.

• 미술이론과 현장
• /
• 제16호
• /
• pp.225-256
• /
• 2013

As the great catastrophe in the modern and contemporary history of China, the Cultural Revolution(CR) is an object, which must have sutured the past of darkness. At the same time it is a continuous event and also a scar of memory. In other words, for history is "a dialog between the past and the reality"(E.H.Kar), CR intervenes in the reality and, on the contrary, the reality recomposes CR. From this point of view, CR is a historical event, which so far is not ended, and it is an object of memory, which is still being composed at the moment. As the saying: "Poetry is greater than history"(Aristoteles), artistic works more intensively reflect the past. The works related to CR can not be an exception. And CR is endlessly exposed in the contemporary Chinese fine arts and the works of the contemporary Chinese artists-Wang Guangyi, Yue Minjun, Zhang Xiaogang and others are proved to be those who suffer from the trauma of CR and who feel no liberty from CR. For example, CR probably is a symbol showing the "identity" of the Chinese artists. And the diversity of the symbol is the experience and pattern of the dialog between artistic works and CR (i.e., intervention in reality). For example, with withering of grand-narrative and appearance of micro-narrative, the CR critical works of Guan Zhoudao were the root of the Chinese fine arts in the late 70s and early 80s. In the contemporary cultural situation, the literary works about CR actively analyzed the history (CR) from the personal point of views and explained in the way of monolog and micro-method led the 1990s' works. In this way they tried to recompose the history "randomly", like looking at reality with their own eyes. In this process, CR is continuously exposing new features and the real facts are appearing before us as unfamiliar phenomena. This is a way of combination and "reappearance" of contemporary arts and reality. In conclusion, the purpose of this article is to make it possible to see a section of the contemporary Chinese fine arts through the study of the icon image of CR and to analyze the way of fine arts recomposing the history and the intervening in the reality. In this sense, the author has entitled the article "Icon and Form". It means how to reshape (the present) the typically formed icon of the CR (the past).

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제42권4호
• /
• pp.50-73
• /
• 2009

최근 등록문화재로 등록된 옛 담장의 사례는 기존의 '점' 단위의 개별 건축물에서 '면' 단위의 마을까지 문화재의 범주를 확대시켰다는 의미를 갖고 있다. 또한 급속한 사회변동에 따라 주거양식이 변화하는 상황 속에서 농 어촌의 전통적 경관의 훼손과 멸실을 방지하고자 추진된 의미 있는 정책이라 할 수 있다. 본고에서는 이러한 옛 담장이 갖고 있는 문화적 요소를 도출하고 구술조사를 통하여 그 의미와 상징체계를 분석하였다. 전통문화의 문화적 자원을 문화콘텐츠화 하려는 노력이 요즘 다양한 측면에서 이루어지고 있지만 기존의 연구들은 너무 미학적인 측면만 강조하거나 건축적인 해석이 주를 이루고 있다. 특히 본고의 연구대상인 옛 담장의 경우는 단순히 관광코스로 소개되는 경우가 대부분이다. 따라서 구술조사를 토대로 이야기를 구성하고 관광객이 함께 공유할 수 있는 창조적인 접근이 필요하다. 문화콘텐츠란 문화의 원형과 문화적 요소를 발굴하고 그 속에 담긴 의미와 가치를 찾아내어 그것의 원형성, 잠재성, 활용성 등을 매체에 결합하는 새로운 문화의 창조 과정이다. 본고에서는 근현대 생활문화 공간복원과 문화콘텐츠의 발굴과 관련하여 상학리 돌담장을 조사하여 활용가능성을 검토하였다. 더불어 조사된 자료를 분석하여 스토리텔링을 활용한 장소마케팅의 가능성을 고찰하여 보다 독창적인 관광자원화 방안을 제안하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.37-48
• /
• 2003

'Pattern' is of very unique nature in each and every country around the world, and its aesthetic feeling of 'pattern' has been handed down according to its nationality and cultural development process. That is, 'pattern' is ornament to symbolize each country's aesthetic standard or choice through some shape, reflecting social consciousness or religion philosophy. Mostly based upon literature survey and case study, this survey paper analytically compares oriental botanical pattern with occidental botanical figure, which has been influenced by Buddhism-Confucianism and Christian religion respectively. The results show that some patterns are commonly used in both area, while meaning differently in some cases: lotus (life), pomegranate (wealth and prosperity in orient, resurrection in occident), grape (fecundity in orient, wealth in occident), dangcho (fecundity in orient, victory in occident). And the other patterns look uniquely used either just in orient or only in occident. For instance, oriental area had its own patterns such as peony (meaning wealth and honour), peach (longevity), ume flower (happiness), orchid (fecundity); while occidental area used lily (purity), olive (peace), palm (victory), and so on. Interestingly, the botanical patterns were used as main patterns in orient whereas as minor in occident.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권4호
• /
• pp.477-491
• /
• 2015

This study analyzes Chinese dresses featured in propaganda posters since the mid-$20^{th}$ century as well as explores the political characteristics of dress. This study used an in-depth interview method to investigate information from 10 Chinese familiar with public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to present. Interviews and analysis provided the following conclusions. First, Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-Zhuang and Bulaji were widely worn in the Reconstruction because of the revolutionary spirit; in addition, Huayishang also became simultaneously popular as a means to reflect the new aspects of socialism. Second, Jufu/Junbianfu were the most common dresses during the period of Cultural Revolution because the government used various mechanisms to control public opinion. Third, Western fashion began to enter the Chinese market and suit wearing by the Chinese became a symbol of the Reformation and Open-door policy. Traditional dress is no longer a symbol of Feudalism and is a part of Chinese culture that has been reaccepted in the Reformation and Open-door times. Finally, during these 60 years, Chinese dress has obvious political characteristics, but began to change. The changes of political characteristics were, de-politicization expressed by the introduction of Western ready-made, permissions for traditional dress and diversification/ individualization.