Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.39
no.5
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pp.641-655
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2015
This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.
This study started from the concern for Bjrake Ingels, an emerging architect in the architecture circle, who is creative and popular. Recently, the architecture field provides architects with a foundation to express a process on a new form creation through various new expressive languages, design concepts, and methods. The global Danish group BIG(Bjarke Ingels Group) develops a story by their distinctive architectural language. The storytelling is being used in various fields and now the tool called 'story' is settling down as an important element in the life that human lives. Bjarke Ingels leading the group BIG aims for the form expression by the scientific analysis and adaptation after being affected by Danish regional background and OMA. It creates a form to share stories with local members by visually simplifying the region, culture, environment, social phenomenon, economy, and politics that are invisible and do not have the form in the modern society. The elements and expressive features of the space storytelling include locality, cultural, natural environment, and connectivity which are the content structure(story) that enables you to intervene in the story according to the main agent to imagine a new space. The expressive element includes the watching moving line story of the successive, hierarchical, and organic structures which are constructive elements creating various spaces through the mixture, transmutability, and relocation of the program and inducing users to the space. The space storytelling is composed of the symbolism, community, and eco-friendliness to appear diversely through BIG's case analysis. This study will have significance that it drew a method and feature looked at by many contemporary architects from the storytelling viewpoint in the form-creating process, classified the form-creating process through a new storytelling type, and showed a possibility on the development of various methodologies.
The study examines the U.S. Small Business Innovation Research (SBIR) program, with a focus on the recent Reauthorization, and compares, in the political context, the U.S. and East Asian countries-Japan, Korea and Taiwan-that adopted the U.S. SBIR program. For the systematic analysis and cross-country comparison, the study employs Kingdon (2003)'s framework-his political theory and Garbage Can Model-to identify political participants and processes underlying the SBIR Reauthorization and to analyze the differences in problem, policy, and politics streams between the U.S. and East Asian countries. For the cross-country comparison, specifically, the study uses various data sources such as OECD, Global Entrepreneurship Monitor, Hofstede's Cultural Dimensions, and World Value Survey. Based on the analysis outcomes, implications of U.S. practices on East Asian countries are extracted as follows. East Asian countries tend to: Have higher entrepreneurial aspiration while lower entrepreneurial activity and attitude than the U.S.; bear higher long term orientation and uncertainty avoidance while lower individualism than the U.S.; and have greater expectations of technology development and higher confidence in political parties while participating less in political action than the U.S. Drawing on the differences, the following policy recommendations are suggested. East Asian countries should: Improve entrepreneurs' access to resources (in particular, financial resource) in order to link their high entrepreneurial aspiration to actual entrepreneurial activities; cultivate failure-tolerating culture and risk-taking entrepreneurs, for instance, by providing a second chance to SBIR-participating businesses that failed to materialize their innovative ideas; and leverage their high expectations of new technology in order to take bold actions regarding their SBIR programs, and update the programs by drawing out constructive dialogues between SBIR stakeholders.
This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.
The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.
The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.
This study attempts to review and evaluate the sociological engagement and media practices of an eminent French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu. In the first part of the paper, I presented some characteristics of Bourdieu's view on the sociological engagement. In the second part, I also examined Bourdieu's alternative media strategies(ARSS, Liber, Raisons d'agir) which were designed to intervene effectively in the academy and public sphere of French society. For Bourdieu, the sociological engagement can be conceived and legitimized as follows: first, the talents of the ensemble of 'specific intellectuals' in Foucaldian sense should be combined to constitute a kind of 'large collective of intellectuals' Second, this 'collective of intellectuals' should make 'corporatist' efforts to improve the autonomy of the 'field of cultural production', which is the indispensable condition for the conquest of 'the universal' Bourdieu tried to realize his logic of sociological engagement through all his intellectual works, media activities and political intervention. In appreciating positively the consistency and originality of Bourdieu's theory and practice of engagement, I proposed to reconsider some limits of his 'modern' politics - enlightenment, science, collectivity - in today's 'postmodern condition'.
There have been technologically distorted naturalization and overzealous digital culture in the formation and development of digital society in Korea. While the suppressive aspects of the 'neo-'authoritarian control and regulation have been excessively centered on the Internet, the autonomous actions of online users from below, with regards to their roles in agenda-setting function, have been evolved as the political. This paper aims to investigate the specificities in the developmental mode of digital technology in Korean society since the mid-90s. In this paper, 'techno-surplus' depicts the state that the abnormal is embedded within a technological artifact beyond its receptive ability. 'Techno-surplus society' designates such an extreme case of specifying technological surplus. In fact, the term of 'techno-surplus society' can be used for a metaphor symbolizing our society, in which social distortion and abnormality caused by 'techno-surplus' have been quite frequently happening, in its comparison to a degree of normality in the institutional politics. This paper explores the local specificities of 'techno-surplus society', in which the regressive aspects have stand out as being more different from the technological developments in China, Japan and the U.S.
The purpose of this study is to critically interpret generational trends in contemporary Korea through understanding the consumer experiences of luxury bag purchases of women in their late 20s and early 30s. Previous studies on luxury consumption tend to focus on an analysis of the value of luxury products as a sign and a symbol, the characteristics or class identity of luxury consumers, or expressive behavior in terms of ideal self-image. While including these factors, this study also expands the scope to a reflexive understanding of the social structural context behind the phenomenon of personal consumption. This was achieved by considering consumption in terms of the style and practice of everyday life, as well as its opportunities and limitations. In particular, we pay attention to how luxury bags are reproduced as media, which is a process that is circulated back to consumption, and through this process, this study reflects on capitalist life and subjects.
The 19th century could not relatively receive attention from local researchers because it was treated as the past cut off from the present as the formative period of modern states of Latin America. According to the characteristics of area studies which focus on changes of politics and society, studies on past affairs could not have been the main focus of attention. But as new liberalism has appeared in Latin America, is throwing the spotlight on liberalism. In addition, the studies on the 19th century have been activated and gradually expanded. And interpretation about the 19th century's history has been variously arranged. Especially, discussion on liberalism and conservatism was established as the key words which can understand and reconsider Latin America in the 19th century. Colombian liberalism which could not overcome heritage of the colonial period in the 19th century and did appear advocating reformation was another form of authoritarianism. Reformation promoted by liberalism was utilized to keep privilege of the ruling class, not to remove the social and economic structure derived from the colonial period. New reformist forces which advocated mercantilism after the middle of the 19th century but they were formed based on the existing system. Colombian Liberal Party was developed as "Another name of conservatization" by reflecting understanding of the conservatives. Colombian liberalists preferred federalism to cut off from repressive characteristics of Spanish colonial rule and secure autonomy of local control through reformation based on economic understanding. Therefore, discussion on the form of government which focused on federalism and centralism acted as the causes of conflict between Colombian liberalism and conservatism. Based on this point, this study tries to analyze liberalism reforms which is the main issue in the Colombian history in the 19th century and consider history of Colombian political conflicts focusing on federalism. The origin of Violencia which is the political violence and Colombian history in the 19th century which has been a series of rebellion can be considered through this procedure.
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