• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.73-88
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• 1997

In old Korea from the 4th century of 6th cen-tury the lapels of You and upper garment folded slightly. It had tight sleeves and its length was not long reaching to the hips. but from the 7th century the sleeve of You became wider and its length became longer, Chinese You folded very deeply across the breast and its sleeve was tight. The length of Chinese You was short too strectching out to the hips. From the 5th century the sleeve of the Chinese You became wider Chinese trousers with wide crotch appeared in the 4th century during the time when Ezst Jin Dyn-asty ruled China. The upper garments with the wide sleeve was common by the 7th century in China. What is specially noteworthy is that Short-dalnyung appeared in the 5th ∼6th century. In old Korea strings were used to tie the bottoms of the trousers. Trousers with tight crotch did not need the strins. korean trousers with wide lines were narrower than the Chinese trousers at the bottom and it was not necessary to use the strings for people to put them on In China there were both of wide trousers and tight trousers. People tied trousers around the kness with the strings in the formal places but they did not tied the trousers with the strings when they wore the ordinary clothes. Chinese trousers were very wide just like a skirt and they were much wider than wide Korean trousers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.226-242
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• 2022

For clothing items that combine the top with the bottom, such as a jumper suit, it is necessary to design original forms to develop clothes in various styles that can satisfy aesthetic and functional needs. Therefore, to determine the original forms of women's jumper suits, this study aimed to analyze the patterns of women's jumper suits being sold in the market comparatively and evaluate their fitness. For the study method, this researcher obtained five types of women's jumper suits from local brands and compared the patterns' measured sizes, then conducted exterior evaluation on the surplus according to five different movements and analyzed the values of distortion of clothing pressure comparatively. According to the results, in the basic posture, brands A and C received favorable results, while in the other movements, brand B, which had the biggest surplus on the bottom, was evaluated favorably. In conclusion, in the patterns of women's jumper suits, a bigger surplus is added to either the crotch length or crotch girth rather than the top length, and the top and the bottom tend to have a different surplus according to the design. In addition, based on the values of body surface lengths according to the range of movements, this study suggests that an additional surplus be added to the length.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.59-79
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1165-1178
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• 2010

This study is aimed at developing low waist slacks pattern with high satisfaction measurements and beauty for the tween generation girls. For this study, the research method was as follows. By extracting and analyzing industrial and educational slacks pattern, beautiful and motion-suitable slacks pattern will be created. This study presents the ideal slacks pattern that has great fit to tween generation girls by comparing and analyzing the previous 2 slacks pattern studies and the real clothing test. The constructed pattern in the 1st step was modified and adjusted from the best industrial patterns' the location of waist line, waist line gradient, rear waist bottom crotch, hip bottom crotch, dart length, the ease of hip girth, the fitness of rear bottom crotch line which were not well-estimated. The 2nd step was appearance and movement test based on the 1st study. In The 3rd step, the 2nd step was chosen as the final slacks study pattern for its superior appearance & movement satisfaction comparing with other patterns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.633-641
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to evaluate a new flight suit in bilateral ways; subjectively and objectively in the improvements of comfort and mobility. Seven healthy males at the age of twenties volunteered in this wearing test. They were over 177 cm in height and 92-95 cm in chest circumference, which satisfies the M95 Special' size described in the Korean Military Specifications and Standards. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of ease of donning and doffing, fitness of wear, mobility, space between cloth and body, convenience in using restroom. Subjective satisfaction evaluation says that the best improvement of movement are neck circumference, chest breadth, armscye circumference, waist back length, crotch length, crotch height and body rise. According to the evaluation, improvements of mobility were conspicuous especially in parts of body like neck, breast, waist, back, and arms. When evaluating objective satisfaction, we measured a angle difference in a prescribed standard-grid on a photograph that picked up while the subject performed each motion in front of 10 cm-interval grid. As a result, the motion that had angle difference above 5 degrees were arm stretching and standing on single leg holding at forward or at his side. Bending necks and waist, crouching also had angle difference of over 5 degrees. The improvements are discussed from the viewpoint that the increased ease in parts of armscye circumference and crotch in new flight suit pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.246-260
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• 2013

This research was carried out on women in their 20s and 30s who have overweight lower body. The subjects selected for this study were women a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The aim is to propose a prototype of bi-stretch pants meeting demands for both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Various clothing patterns ease amount of the waist and hip circumferences and crotch depths and were developed. They had different crotch widths, and center back line angles. The results showed that the best pants patterns were ease 1cm to the total hip circumference. The front hip circumference was H/4-0.5cm, and the back hip circumference was H/4+1cm. The front crotch width was H/20+1cm, the back crotch width was H/10+3cm. No additional ease was given to the total waistline. The front waist circumference was W/4+0.5cm. The back waist circumference was W/4-0.5cm. The knee circumference was set at 44cm, the pant hem width was set at 36cm, and the pant length was set at 100cm-5cm. The findings of this research can be used as basic data for stretch pants that fit the abdomen, hips, and thighs for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.577-586
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to develope slacks basic block to be used for improving the attactive silhouette and bodily fitness in ready-to-wear and educational patterns. The subjects were from 20 to 24 years old and twenty six body measurements were taken on the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea in 1977. The women in 20's think ideal body shapes are high stature, long legs, slander waist, hip, abdomen, thigh, ankle and light weight. And so it needs to be studied to studied to make slacks pattern which show slander girth and long length. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional slacks patterns of System M. Muller & Sohn, Secolli, 文化's in Japan, and Won-ja Rim's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every four patterns were found. 2. According to the center back slant, reflecting the change of waist circumference, thigh circumference, back crotch length, and the new suitable slacks pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new slacks pattern by comparing with the conventional slacks pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new slacks pattern was more suitable for appearance. 4. The new slacks pattern for women in their 20's were developed as follows ; The waist line came down 2 ㎝, the waist circumference was plus 2㎝ than originally, and the back hip circumference was larger 1 ㎝ than the front hip, the slacks length was created stature/8×4.9, the knee length was stature/8×2.7. The center back crotch length was interspaced 1∼1.5㎝ at the center front, and was at right angle the point which was raised 5㎝ at the side front. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus on any other ready-made slacks for women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.211-223
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• 2018

In global apparel product development, flat is one of the most important key factor for technical design communication. Proportionally correct flats based on correct scaled human body figures are imperative to be successful in the fashion business. In this study the researchers were to develop body templates for flats for Korean women body types using data from 'Size Korea 2004 (5th)', which is a Korean government apparel sizing project to analyze women's body measurements (age range 7-49). We measured 13 height measurements, 6 width measurements, 8 circumference measurements, 6 length measurements, 3 angle measurements and 5 body measurements. A body figure (i.e., schema) for each group was created by Pattern Design Software (PAD) System 4.1. Muscle was added to the schema created by Adobe Illustrator to ensure a better visualization and convenience for industry uses for flats. Developed body figure template of representative type had the largest difference in height level compared to exiting figures. It had a bigger head, lower crotch level, and longer crotch depth and hip length than existing figures.