• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.73-88
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• 1997

In old Korea from the 4th century of 6th cen-tury the lapels of You and upper garment folded slightly. It had tight sleeves and its length was not long reaching to the hips. but from the 7th century the sleeve of You became wider and its length became longer, Chinese You folded very deeply across the breast and its sleeve was tight. The length of Chinese You was short too strectching out to the hips. From the 5th century the sleeve of the Chinese You became wider Chinese trousers with wide crotch appeared in the 4th century during the time when Ezst Jin Dyn-asty ruled China. The upper garments with the wide sleeve was common by the 7th century in China. What is specially noteworthy is that Short-dalnyung appeared in the 5th ∼6th century. In old Korea strings were used to tie the bottoms of the trousers. Trousers with tight crotch did not need the strins. korean trousers with wide lines were narrower than the Chinese trousers at the bottom and it was not necessary to use the strings for people to put them on In China there were both of wide trousers and tight trousers. People tied trousers around the kness with the strings in the formal places but they did not tied the trousers with the strings when they wore the ordinary clothes. Chinese trousers were very wide just like a skirt and they were much wider than wide Korean trousers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권7호
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• pp.1303-1313
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• 2001

This study was performed to develop a mobile functional pattern reflecting the characteristics of the middle aged women's lower body types based on the slacks construction components. The results and procedures obtained from this study were as follows; 1. The bodys measurement of the 252 middle aged women of 45∼59 years old were used to analyze the size and somato type. 2. For multiple analysis of the lower body types, horizontal and vertical section maps were obtained by sliding gauge method and extracted constructional factors of slacks. 3. The following condition was determined with both standing and moving position of body: (gradient of C.B.L/2)+3°and (back crotch extention)+2cm. 4. Development of new slacks pattern drafting was based on the result of data analysis. Trough the wearing test by the sensory evaluation, It showed that developed slacks pattern was judged better than existing patterns in items of comfort of comfort of silhouette and moving.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.312-324
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• 2011

This investigates the type of pants preferred by Korean men in their 20s through a subjective wear test. Six types of men's pants were developed as experimental garments. The male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 and 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental pants were rated using seven Likert scales. A 7-point Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 indicating the best fit. As a result, a basic men's sloper for lower body clothing was developed based on SizeKorea 2004 anthropometric measurements surveyed between 2003 and 2004. A basic pattern (A) was manipulated to tight-fit pants (E) and loose-fit pants (D, L, M, and N) by considering the ease at hip level and the style. Among the six pants, pants D and L (4cm ease at hip level) were found to be superior to others in terms of comfort, fitting, and crotch depth. With regard to ease and comfort of the crotch part, pants E and A (0cm ease at hip level) were found to be the least preferred.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.55-67
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• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to present a good pants pattern for boys aged 13-18 by comparing and analyzing the pants pattern according to lower body shape. And through it, this study was to provide basic data for pants production considering male student body shape. The pattern of this study used the industrial type Lee Hee-chun pattern and DC Suite Program for 3D virtual simulation. As a result of the appearance evaluation, there was a significant difference between the patterns in most items. Type 2 was rated highly, followed by Type 4, Type 3, and Type 1. Type 1 required correction of the length of the pants and the amount of crotch part, while type 3 required adjustment of the pants in the knee area. Type 4 required correction of pattern drawing method of crotch width, thigh circumference, and knee circumference. This pattern method was evaluated as suitable for slender body shape. This study suggests a pants pattern system suitable for adolescent boys by reflecting the body shape characteristics of adolescent boy with a change of body shape. It is expected that this will meet the increasing demand for fitting. In this study, we have examined 3D virtual simulation, not actual wear experiment, so it will be necessary to investigate the difference through actual clothing experiment for adolescent boys.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.226-242
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• 2022

For clothing items that combine the top with the bottom, such as a jumper suit, it is necessary to design original forms to develop clothes in various styles that can satisfy aesthetic and functional needs. Therefore, to determine the original forms of women's jumper suits, this study aimed to analyze the patterns of women's jumper suits being sold in the market comparatively and evaluate their fitness. For the study method, this researcher obtained five types of women's jumper suits from local brands and compared the patterns' measured sizes, then conducted exterior evaluation on the surplus according to five different movements and analyzed the values of distortion of clothing pressure comparatively. According to the results, in the basic posture, brands A and C received favorable results, while in the other movements, brand B, which had the biggest surplus on the bottom, was evaluated favorably. In conclusion, in the patterns of women's jumper suits, a bigger surplus is added to either the crotch length or crotch girth rather than the top length, and the top and the bottom tend to have a different surplus according to the design. In addition, based on the values of body surface lengths according to the range of movements, this study suggests that an additional surplus be added to the length.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권4호
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• pp.696-710
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• 2023

This study investigated the problems of Korean female combat uniforms and collected primary data for developing new combat uniforms with improved functionality. We analyzed fit and motion suitability by administering a questionnaire evaluating the current uniforms to 20 Korean female soldiers. The evaluation of fit suitability found that satisfaction with the combat uniforms was generally high. However, short sleeve length, large wrist circumference, small hip circumference, large ankle circumference, and low crotch height were discomfort factors. In the evaluation of motion suitability, dissatisfaction was found with the sleeve circumference, elbow circumference, armhole circumference, knee crease and crotch height, and back waist height during motion. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a more segmented size system that suits the physique of current female soldiers and to devise appropriate solutions for improving motion suitability. This study is meaningful for its evaluation of the current combat uniform of female soldiers, and it is expected to serve as a reference for the future development of military combat uniforms for this group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2023

Stationary 3D whole-body scanners generally require 5 to 20 seconds of scanning time and cannot effectively detect armpit and crotch areas. Therefore, this study aimed to analyze the accuracy of a photogrammetric technique using a multi-camera system. First, dimensional accuracy was analyzed using a mannequin scan, comparing the differences between the scan-derived measurements and the direct measurements, with an allowable tolerance of ISO 20685-1:2018. Only 2 of 59 measurement items (ankle height and upper arm circumference, specifically) exceeded the ISO 20685-1:2018 criteria. When compared with the results of the eight stationary whole-body scanners assessed by the literature, the photogrammetric technique was found to have the advantage of scanning the top of the head, armpit, and crotch areas clearly. Second, this study found the photogrammetric technique is suitable for obtaining the body scans because it can minimize the perform scanning, resulting in a reduction of measurement errors due to breathing and uncontrolled movements. The error rate of the photogrammetry method was much lower than that of stationary 3D whole-body scanners.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.431-439
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• 2013

This study aims to give practical help to the pattern making of baggy pants produced in large quantity from industrial fields. The functionality of crotch part is a key element to decide wear sensation and comfort of pants as having direct influence on movements of legs in pattern designing of baggy pants. The industrial patterns of baggy pants in various styles that are released currently in Korea were collected and a comparative analysis was conducted on them for the thesis. First, samples of men baggy pants were collected from three different brands and compared the completion sizes. Secondly, it studied the most appropriate patterns as quantifying the appropriateness of movements through fitting tests. Finally, the study verified the differences of visual images by surveys of professional groups. The conclusions obtained from this research are as follows. In terms of aesthetic attribute among the three brands, A baggy pants, which had a small size tolerance, were the most appropriate. Meanwhile concerning the appropriateness of movement, B baggy pants were shown to be the most appropriate. This reveals explicitly the problem of aesthetic attribute and functionality, which are always in conflict during the pattern design. It is necessary to develop patterns and establish a measurement system that may satisfy both of these factors.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.616-627
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for obese-schoolgirls aged 10~12 by using a 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had a BMI of over $25kg/m^2$. A total of 155 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, a new slacks pattern considerate of obese-schoolgirls was developed. The basic numerical formulae were as follows: Front and back hip girth of H/4-0.5+1 and H/4+0.5+1.5, front waist girth of W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth of W/4+2+0.5, front crotch extension of H/16-0.5, back crotch extension of H/8-0.5, front dart amount of 1, and back dart amount of 2. Second, according to the new slacks pattern appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern for silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for obese-schoolgirls. Additionally, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing for the proper space length of the waist, abdomen and hips. This study is expected to serve as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize a 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns and for future 3D pattern production program development.