• Title/Summary/Keyword: Crease Angle

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A Study on Grading Practices of Men's Pants in Apparel Industry (기성복 남자 바지 패턴 그레이딩에 관한 연구 -35-55세를 중심으로-)

  • Kyung, Yoon-Mi
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.6
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    • pp.934-942
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    • 2011
  • This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

Effect of heat setting on physical properties of dyeable polypropylene(DPP) fabric (가염형 폴리프로필렌직물의 열처리에 따른 물성변화)

  • Lee, Sin-Hui;Kim, Eun-Mi
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2008.04a
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    • pp.37-39
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of DPP fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to 140$^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 10min.. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting peak of multi peak changed to single peak with an increased thermosetting temperatures. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength and elongation were found to increase with increasing temperature of heat setting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle(2${\theta}$) about 13.8$^{\circ}$ were very strong, and diffraction intensity, d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

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Preparation of Durable Softening Water Repellents by Blends of Activated Polyethylene / Wax / Acrylic Copolymer(II);Water-Repellent Finish of Cotton Fabrics (활성화 폴리에틸렌 / 왁스 / 아크릴 공중합체의 블렌드에 의한 내구유연발수제의 제조에 관한 연구(II);면직물에의 발수가공)

  • Kim, Sung-Gea;Shin, Jae-Hyun;Park, Hong-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.47-53
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    • 1996
  • The procedure to prepare an acrylic emulsion water repellents by blending of arcylic copolymer, activated polyethylene, wax, and emulsifiers was published in the previous paper. After the treatment of the prepared water repellents on a cotton fabrics with and without textile finishing resin, washability, contact angle, tearing strength, and crease recovery were tested. As the result, there were remarkable improvements in physical properties. Proper curing temperature of the synthesized water repellents impellents was $150^{\circ}C$ : proper using concentration was 5wt% : sodium acetate was the best catalyst for water repellents among the used, and proper concentration was 1.0wt%.

Effect of Heat Setting on Physical Properties of Dyeable Polypropylene Fabric (Dyeable polypropylene 직물의 열처리에 따른 물성변화)

  • Lee, Shin-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.481-487
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of dyeable polypropylene(DPP) fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to $140^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 2 min. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties(e.g., the strength and elongation) and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength was found to increase with increasing temperature of thermosetting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle($2{\theta}$) about $13.8^{\circ}$ were very strong and diffraction intensity increased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. And d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

A Study on Flying Height of Head Slider in Rotary Type Actuator (회전 구동용 헤드 슬라이더의 부상높이에 관한 연구)

  • 이재헌;최동훈;윤상준;김광식
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
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    • v.15 no.6
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    • pp.1886-1896
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    • 1991
  • This paper presents a method to predict the flying height of the head slider in a hard disk drive. Quantitative predicts of the flying height according to the variations of the external load and the disk velocity have been done by numerical computation. In addition, the magnitude of the external load to keep flying height constant were also suggested. The Modified Reynolds' equation driven from hydrodynamic lubrication theory under slip flow condition was used to describe air-bearing system under the slider. To solve the equation, a Finite Volume Method (FVM) has been applied. To determine the final minimum flying height and pitch angle of the head slider, the Secant iteration method is used which update initial guess of the minimum flying height and pitch angle of the slider. In this study, the model head slider has been selected from a real hard disk drive which is equipped in many commercial personal computers. As a result, as the disk velocity increases at constant external load, the minimum flying height and the pitch angle increase due to the in crease of the air-bearing force at the bottom of slider.

Analysis of Wrinkling for Creased Thin Membrane (접힌 자국이 있는 멤브레인의 주름 거동 해석)

  • Woo, Kyeong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Aeronautical & Space Sciences
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    • v.36 no.9
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    • pp.851-858
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    • 2008
  • In this paper, the wrinkling behavior of vertically creased corner-loaded square membranes was studied using geometrically nonlinear post-buckling analysis. The membranes were modeled using shell elements, and the meshes were seeded with semi-random geometrical imperfection to instigate the buckling deformation. A pristine and creased membranes with various initial deployment angles were considered in the analyses and the results were compared. Results showed that local wrinkles initiated near the corner where the higher load was applied, which grew to form a single diagonal global wrinkle as the load ratio increased. It was also found that the local wrinkle initiation and the global wrinkle formation were significantly dependent on the initial deployment angles.

A Study on the Preparation of Durable Softening Water Repellent by Blending Acrylic Copolymer and Fatty Carbamide;Water Repelling Finish of PET Fabrics (아크릴 공중합체와 지방산 카르바미드의 블렌딩에 의한 내구유연발수제의 제조에 관한 연구;V. PET 직물에의 발수가공)

  • Im, Wan-Bin;Kim, Seong-Kil;Park, Hong-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.137-144
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    • 1996
  • Durable softening water repellents such as PODCW, PDDCW, and PEDCW were prepared by blending cationized polymers, fatty carbamide, waxes, and emulsifiers. The cationized polymers included poly (octadecyl methacrylate-co-2-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) [PODC], poly (n-dodecyl methacrylate-co-2-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) [PDDC]and poly (2-ethylhexyl methacrylate-co-2-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) [PEDC]. After the PET fabrics were treated with these water repellents, water repellency, softness, and durability of the PET fabrics were examined by various methods : water repellency by the hydrostatic pressure and the contact angle methods, softness by crease recovery and tearing strength, and durability by washability, respectively. Rating of water repellency of PET fabrics treated with PODCW was $80^{+}$, but those treated with PDDCW and PEDCW were not high enough to be used in industry.

Adhesion Enhancement of Solvent type and Water Soluble Adhesive Using Atmospheric Plasma (대기압 플라즈마를 이용한 용제형 및 수용성 접착제의 접착력 향상)

  • Jung, Young Sig;Seul, Soo Duk
    • Journal of Adhesion and Interface
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.148-153
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    • 2009
  • An atmospheric plasma pre-treatment method was applied to PU foam, Leather (Action), Rubber to improve its adhesion using solvent and water soluble type pressure sensitive adhesion in atmospheric plate type reactor. In order to investigate the optimum reaction condition of plasma treatment, type of reaction gas (nitrogen), rate of gas flow (30~100 mL/min), and reaction time (0~30 s) were examined in a plate plasma reactor. The result of the surface modification with respect to the treatment procedure was characterized by using SEM. Due to a de-crease of the contact angle of various materials, the greatest adhesion strength was achieved at optimum condition such as flow rate of 100 mL/min, reaction time of 10 second for an atmospheric plasma treatment of the PU foam, EVA foam, Leather (Action) and Rubber also resulted in the improvement of the adhesion.

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Water and Oil Repellency of Wool Fabric Treated with Nano-type Finishing Agent (Wool 직물의 나노 발수 발유가공)

  • Choi, Bo-Ryun;Han, Sam-Sook;Lee, Mun-Cheul
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.26-34
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    • 2008
  • Wool fabric having high moisture content were treated with fluorocarbon-based water and oil repellent finishing agents by pad-dry-cure system. Three types of finishing agents which were regular-type or nano-type were adapted to compare the surface chemical composition, water and oil repellent property, crease recovery angle, and durability to repeated laundering. From the surface chemical compositions resulted by ESCA and C1s curve-fitting, it was shown that the regular-type finishing agent were easily taken off from the finished wool fabrics after repeated laundering. On the other hand, the fluoroalkyl groups of nano-type finishing agents turned round from fabric surface to fiber internal after repeated laundering. The water repellency of the wool fabrics treated with regular-type agent had a little changes according to the treatment condition changes and sharply decreased with repeated laundering. However, these values when treated with nano-type agents increased with the concentration and cure temperature and were maintained after 20 times laundering. The wool fabrics treated with nano-type agent had a great oil repellency irrespective of treatment conditions. Furthermore, the wrinkle recovery values of the wool fabrics treated with nano-type agents were higher than those of the fabrics treated with regular-type agent and were unchanged after 20 times laundering.

The Shear Strength Characteristics of Weathered Granite Soil in Unsaturated State (불포화(不飽和) 화강암질풍화토(花崗岩質風化土)의 전단강도(剪斷强度) 특성(特性))

  • Cho, Seong Seup;Kang, Yea Mook;Chee, In Taeg
    • Korean Journal of Agricultural Science
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.86-100
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    • 1985
  • In order to investigate the strength characteristics of weathered granite soils in unsaturated state, the five physically different weathered granite soils and the common soil (sandy loam) were examined. The disturbed and the undisturbed material were prepared for triaxial compression test. The following conclusions were drawn from the study; 1. Dry density of the undisturbed soil samples was lower than maximum dry density determined from the compaction test and it showed the higher value at the well graded soil. 2. The failure strength of the samples decreased with the increase of moisture content of the soil and these results were highly pronounced at the common soil sample having a good cohesive property. 3. On weathered granite soils, the cohesion was lower measured and the internal friction angle highly, the decrease rate at internal friction angle with increase of moisture content of the soil was more significant than that of cohesion 4. The modulus of deformation of the samples decreased with increase of moisture content of the soil and these phenomena were highly pronounced at the weathered granite soils than common soil. 5. The failure strength of the samples increased with in crease of confining pressure and effect of confining pressure on failure strength was highly significant at the lower moisture content of the soil.

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