• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court′s feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national quests from foreign countries. There are 53 kinds of court dancing suits, ranging from the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms to the period of Chosun Dynasty. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles : DangAk-JeongJae(唐樂呈才) style and HyangAk-feongjae(鄕樂呈才) style, depending on dancing styles. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as YukHwaDae(六花隊), MuSanHyang(舞山香) and ChoonAengJeon(春鶯), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.168-176
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• 2006

The court dancing suit, so-called 'Jeongjae suit', has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court's feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national guests from foreign countries. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles; Dangak-Jeongjae style and Hyangak-Jeongjae style, depending on dancing styles. This study examined the change of the dancing suits of Hyangak-Jeongjae styles created in the latter period of Joseon Dynasty, such as Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, Heoncheonhwa, and discussed the thought of EumYang-Ohaeng(the cosmic dual forces and the five elements) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. Generally, in the dancing suits of Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, and Heoncheonhwa, the color expression focused on the main stream of red, blue, yellow, white and black. The colors were mainly expressed in harmony between upper garments and under garments, outer garments and inner garments, a simple dress and its decorations. Especially, in the dancing suits of Heoncheonhwa, the purple color symbolized the auspiciousness of the Purple Palace where the God lives.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.123-138
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• 2002

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.89-96
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• 2003

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as GaInJeonMok-Dan(佳人剪牧丹)ㆍGoGuRyeo-Mu(高句麗舞)ㆍGongMak-Mu(公莫舞)ㆍManSuMu(萬壽舞), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly. properly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.84-97
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• 2007

Dancing with weapons existed spontaneously when war and hunting were common, and sword dancing, as a dance for banquets, developed and changed in various forms. In Korea, sword dancing was performed from the Three Dynasty Period, and in Joseon Dynasty, it was performed as court ceremony. The origin of the sword dancing, that has been performed from the Joseon Dynasty until now, and costumes for sword dancing isn't accurate. The purpose of this study is to analyze the sword dancing costume of China, Korea's neighboring country, and that of Korea in the same period, and to find out the process of wearing military uniform: Jun-mo, Jeo-go-ri, Chi-ma, Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae, being settled as the sword dancing costumes of Korea in late Joseon Dynasty. In China, sword dancing became famous in Han Dynasty, and in Tang Dynasty, it was the meridian of sword dancing with the most magnificent form. After the Song Dynasty, the sword dancing fades away. In Korea, the sword dancing started as a mask dancing of children that Hwa-rang(bravery youth) in Shilla Dynasty started. After the Unified Shiila Period, the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty spread to Korea, with active interchange between the two countries. After the Corea Dynasty, the mask dancing of children faded and the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty changes into Korean form. It was incorporated into the court ceremony after the mid-period of Joseon Dynasty, and the costumes were settled as the military uniform, which are Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae on top of Chi-ma, and Jeo-go-ri, and Jun-moon the head.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-184
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• 1998

The results of this theis are as follows. As regards the chronological transformation of the royal court dancing which is characterized by the variousness and colorfulness of the old-fashioned dancing suit, in the pre-dynasty of triple alliance among Shinla, Bakjae, and Goguryeo, the traditional ritual stood on ceremony through the ceremonial dancing in support of a religional rite. But while the Shinla, Bakjae, and GoGuRyeo dynasty began to excercise the systematic royal control over people, each royal court employed the professional ritual dancers; and it encouraged them to dance on the variety of ceremony on behalf of a rite and celebration. Of course, except for that of Shinla dynasty, it is not so easy to find out the historical record for the evidence which can back up these facts. As representatives of a ritual dancing, the religional ceremony of Shinla dynasty brought about the orientation of GumGee-Mu, MooAe-Mu, Saseon-Mu, Seonyu-Ak, and Cheoyong-Mu.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.15-37
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• 2011

This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.142-150
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• 1997

Korean ritual dancing was doing in a royal court when an auspicious event happen in a country, a ritual ceremony was hold or reception for an envoy came from the other country was hold. There were 53 kinds of ritual dancing in Korea. Gumgee-Mu was the one among of them. Yea-Reung(woman ritual dancer) were dancing Gumgee-Mu with a sword. For Gumgee-Mu they wore a Kaeja(快子), Haebsuyoi(挾袖衣). Above it they took a Jeandae(戰帶), Jeanlib(戰笠). The dancing suit\`s color had a harmony with well mixed. Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural(陰陽五行) of oriented traditional concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.63-93
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• 1998

This thesis focuses on how the dancing suit frequently used in the Korean royal court has been chronologically changed to that of the modern times. It also aims at how the implicit symbols shown in the royal court dancing suit are related to the traditional concepts and thoughts on Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural-Elements(Eum-Yang-Oh-Haeng). The results of this thesis are as follows. In the historical period of Koryo dynasty, the Buddhists religional ceremonies of YeonDueng-Hoi and PalGwan-Hoi favoured a ritual dancing of DangAakJeongJae originated from the old ancient China, and at the same time it also employed HyangAakJeongJae of Sin-la dynasty. Especially, the DangAakJeongJae contained the kinds of SooSeon-Dyo, Soo-YeonJang, PoTae-Aak, OhYa-ng-Seon, and YeonHwaDae-Mu; and the Hyang-AakJeongJae dealt with Moo-Go and Aa-Bak.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.