• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.1030-1039
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• 1999

The effect of surfactant mixture 9on detergency and soil redeposition in a dry-cleaning system was investigated employing Aerosol OT as an anionic surfactant and Span 80 as a nonionic surfactant. The effect of charge system on soil deposition was also investigated in order to determine the optimum condition at which soil redeposition is minimum,. Soil deposition instead of soil redeposition on cotton, polyester and wool fabrics was measured employing petroleum solvent and perchloroethylene as organic solvents. The results were as follows. 1. Surface tension or interfacial tension was not changed by the addition of any surfactant or surfactant mixtures. In petroleum solvent however interfacial tension between solrent and water decreased when surfactants were added and increased when surfactants were mixed,. 2. The maximum amount of water solubilization increased as the mole fraction of Aerosol OT increased and more water was solubilized in petroleum solvent than in perchloroethylene. 3. The detergency of cotton was greater and the soil deposition rate was lower in Span 80 solution than in Aerosol OT solution. The soil deposition on cotton fabric decreased when water was solubilized in Aersol OT solution 4. The detergency and soil deposition rate of polyester fabric did not change by the surfactant type of the addition of surfactant mixture and soil deposition rate increased bywater solubilization. 5. Soil deposition on wool fabric was very high when Arosol OT was employed in perchloroethylene and the soil deposition did not change greatly by water solubilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 1987

To study the visual evaluation on the effect of ruffle's gather, the aesthetic evaluation on the gather's measurements and the image evaluation were performed. Evaluated fabrics were cotton, wool ani synthetic fiber, and 3 kinds of thickness for each fabric were selected. In order to seek for aesthetic gather's measurements, we performed the sensory test by the Rank Method on 5 kinds of gather's measurements(I.5 times, 1. 8times, 2times, 2.5 times, 3 times). For the image evaluation on the effect of the gather, we performed the sensory test by the Semantic Differential Method on the gather's measurements were got high score in the sensory test of the gather's measurements and analyzed by means of a Factor Analysis. The results were as follows. 1. Except 2 times of fabric $A_1$(thin cotton), the aesthetic gather's measurements of the ruffle were evaluted 2.5 times in cotton and synthetic fiber, and 2 times in wool. Generally the aesthetic gather's measurements of the ruffle were 2$\~$2.5 times. 2. The image characteristics of the ruffle were established the characteristics of the fabrics as factor 1, the characteristics of the atomosphere as factor 2 and the characteristics of the drape as factor 3. Therefore, we must consider the characteristics of the fabric, the atomosphere and the drape of the ruffle in production of the ruffle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2005

The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.709-717
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• 2010

This study investigated the properties and functions of wool and silk dyed with Catechu by examining the effects of dying conditions such as dye concentration, dying temperature, dyeing time, pH level and pre-mordants. These conditions were examined in relation to dye uptake and color changes, washing fastness, light fastness, ultraviolet-cut ability and antimicrobial ability of the dyed fabrics. Catechu showed good affinity to silk fiber. Langmuir adsorption isotherm was obtained, and so it was considered that ionic bondings are formed between Catechu and protein fiber. As the dyeing time and temperature is increased, the dyeability of both silk and wool fabrics also increases. At high temperatures the color of dyed fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Wool is effective in using Al, Cu, Fe mordant, while silk is effective only in using only Cu mordants. The dyeability was shown to be improved at low pH levels. Additionally, both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causingby repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2002

This study was intended to research the dyeing with natural walnut hull extracts over cotton, flax, rayon, wool, nylon and silk. We studied the dyeing conditions and mordant effect, and observed dyeability. The result are as follows: 1. In the dyeability with natural walnut hull extracts, protein and polyamide fiber has more dye uptake rather than cellulose fiber. 2. The optimum condition in the dyeing with natural walnut hull extracts was at $90^{\circ}C$, 12%(o.w.b) concentration in 90 mins. 3. In the case of the dyeability by repeated dyeing number, the dyeability of good dyeability fiber is improved in the first or second dyeing, but that of bad dyebality fiber is improved when it is dyed more repeatedly. 4. In the dyeablity treated with mordants, Al, Sn, and Mg don't have any differences, but Cu and Fe have some difference. The color of Fe mordant is green and the color of Cu mordant is blue. 5. In the case of the color fastness with mordant treatment, nylon is better than silk and wool in color fastness to washing but silk is better than nylon and wool in color fastness to light.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.11
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• pp.127-135
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• 2000

The natural dyestuff, grape skin dye was manufactured from grape skin by boiling in 0.1% HCI solution, eliminating the sugar and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured grape skin dye to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the grape skin is anionic. The color of dyed fabrics were affected on temperature of dyeing solution. Under 80$\^{C}$, the color of dyed fabrics were red or violet, but changed to brown in laundering. Above 100$\^{C}$, the color were brown and safe in laundering. Dyeabilities on wool, silk, and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others. Dyeability was developed with concenturation of dyeing solution. All the dyed fabrics were excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Light fastness was low to moderate. The light fastness of dyed nylon fabrics were as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 3∼4 by aftertreatment with gallic acid.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1098-1109
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• 1999

This study was to examine the effects of textiles materials and wearing types on the thermal regulation responses of human, Cotton polyester wool silk and rayon were chosen as outerwears and acetate was selected as a lining. Blouse-skirt suits blouse-slacks suits and one-piece dress made of selected textiles were examined by human trials, Tests results were as follows ; 1 When subjects wore vlouse-slacks suits Tmsk was showed the highest value. There was a significant difference on Tmsk(p<0.05) when they wore one-piece dress. The temperature of microclimate inside clothing when subjects wore blouse-slacks suits showed the highest value and one-piece dress and then blouse-skirt suits in order. For blouse-skirt suits clothing without lining showed higher temperature of the back of microclimate inside clothing than clothing with lining except cotton(p<0.1) 2. There were no significant consistency of the increasing rates of thermal insulation of garment at fabric test and human trials among polyesterand silk.