• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.144-161
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• 2013

Seok, shoes worn for rituals that originated in China, is worn as part of a formal dress in Korea. The Seok for men were worn with Myeonbok(冕服: kingly ceremonial costume) and Wonyugwanbok(遠遊冠服) and the Seok for Jeokui(翟衣: queenly ceremonial costume) and Jangsam(長衫). Myeonbok, Wonyugwanbok, Jeokui and Jangsam were ceremonial costumes of ancient times. This paper examines Seok, which has never been the focal point of a study, and focuses on the period of Joseon(1392~1897). It was possible to concretely identify its changes in each of the periods and genders by means of the literature and picture data. It turns out from this paper that a unique Korean style emerged in the days of Kings Yeongjo(英祖: 1694~1776) and Sunjo(純祖: 1790~1834). The Seok that were imported from China after the Goryeo period included a neck part, which was a departure from its original form. However, during this period, fences were added on the top of the shoes, and rings were added to thread laces in Seok from China. Women wore their Seok in this period with different ornaments in accordance with the different situations.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.19-27
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• 2012

Shinyeojuryeom is a set of bamboo blinds[Juryeom] enclosing the Korean litter for transporting a mortuary tablet of royal family[Shinyeo] in Joseon dynasty. The blinds were made up of twigs laid horizontally which were joined together by vertical threading, then they were lined and backed with silk fabric. A number of historical documents such as Gukjosangryebopyeon(1758), JeongjoGukjangdogameuigwe(1800) and Gukjangdogam- myeongseseo(1905) provide information on material and structure of the litter and blinds. How- ever, detailed dimensions or specific ingredients of some of the materials were not clearly explained. In order to complement these missing or unclear parts, a close examination and scientific analysis of the litter's material was undertaken. The result newly identified materials of the gold tip tassels and pigments used on twigs as well as partly confirmed information on historical records. This new information will help further understanding and future production of a replica.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.65-73
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• 2002

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.123-138
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• 2019

The hat on the back of the upper jacket in Scythian, in of northern region surrounding the Black Sea, is described as a typical woolen hood, but until now has been overlooked in Korean costume studies. The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat on the upper jacket in Scythians and to recognize the meaning of the hat. A further purpose is to complete the basic framework of research concerning the Scythian costume by adding the part that was overlooked previously As for the research method, we collected literature, previous research results, the exhibition catalog, and the related artifacts for analysis. The literature was collected at the German Archaeological Research Institute. The analysis of artifacts was based on data collected by the researchers at the Heremitage Museum in Russia and data was taken by the staff of the Heremitage Museum. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Among the artifacts in the northern region of the Black Sea, it was perviously believed that Scythians status was signified by the wearing of hat-tops. Regardless of age, warriors and knights all wore upper jackets with hats, so it appears that the people who are active wore upper jackets with hats. On the other hand, it was assumed that the royal family, who wore ornamented, colorful, and decorative hats were not observed to have worn upper jackets with hats, and therefore did not require a hat. Therefore, it is considered that the hat in the Scythian society was a costume element emphasizing practicality, not necessarily a class symbol.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.141-152
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• 1981

Various ceremonial flags were of great importance to the rulers who wished to have the absolute authorities for governing the people. Perhaps nothing indicated the ideas, thoughts and symbols of a certain period and people than the ceremonial flags. The ceremonial flags used in the old China and Korea took the shapes of the heaven and the earth, representing the social backgrounds and thoughts. This study was limited only to the discussion of the heaven-shaped patterns of the ceremonial flags. The 28 constellations of the heaven, in the Oriental way of thinking, were considered to express the immortal powers of Providence and the political domination of the earth. Hence the Polaris, the center of the heaven, symbolized the whole family of king, prince, child born of a concubine and royal harem. Among the constellation pictures were those of Han period, wall painting of old tombs in Koguryeo kingdom and old Japanese kingdom. Referring to the Emperor's ceremonial flags in Daemyeongjibyei, symbolic meanings changed historically and the complete systems of the ceremonial flags were established in Song period when the divine person was drawn on the flags. Animals concerned properly with the particular star and the shapes of the star were both drawn on the flags in Won period and only the shapes of the particular star in Myeong period. In the Imperial enthronement of Kojong the ceremonial flags might be made by the examples of those of Myeong period and remains are now found at Changdeok Palace, which need a further study because the references in detail are not available.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2008

People in the Ancient Society of Korea liked golden earrings. The Royal Family or the nobility wanted to make more splendorous golden earrings in order to display their high-ranking positions. However, appearances or production methods of golden earrings differ a little by countries, for example, Goguryeo, Silla, Baekje, Gaya, etc. Therefore, by closely examining articles discovered from tombs, we can know which country they were from. In particular, earrings of Goguryeo and Silla are similar to each other while those of Baekje and Gaya are similar. This would be closely related with political relationships between the two countries. The shape of golden earrings in the middle of the $5^{th}$ century A.D. is relatively simple. However, since the latter half of the $5^{th}$ century, golden earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea changed in the direction of long length or significantly splendorous surface decoration. Accordingly, we can estimate the period of production by analyzing golden earrings discovered from a tomb. In addition, the above trend was common all the earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea, which implies that each nation closely exchanged reciprocally at that time.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2009

This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.41-54
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.87-99
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest a bag design focusing on the symbol of Bo patterns by developing a pattern-based textile which forms a Korean design with a modern sense of beauty as well as following the conventions of traditional cultures, a design which is based on the previous study on formative characteristics of Bo patterns. That is, seven pieces of motifs are considered as proper patterns that have a symbol suitable for the materials of bags, showing their individual beauty well. This includes Horomum (longevity and prosperity of desendants), Banjangmum (eternity and samsara), Jeonbomum (treasure and luck), Seobomum (innate good fortune), Bangseungmum (it means that things don't break in harmony with one another), Bomum (embroidered patches for royal family representing justice), and Seogakmum (blessed life). With these seven motifs, we developed textile patterns and printed them through DTP. Then, we created a fashion bag design with a high quality using durable canvas fabrics. Therefore, a fashion bag with the Bo patterns symbol has a propitious symbol designed with a propitious shape, not to mention its formative beauty. It is expected to have value as a fashion art item by being redesigned for benevolent patterns with a modern image.