• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2005년도 Joint International Conference
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• pp.99-100
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• 2005

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The study is to provide basic data on improving costume's fitting by developing physical integrated Basic Bodice Block's development for body types of adult women, which is based on setting up body-type information per truncus as fundamental of adult women's top product manufacture in being ready for Mass Customization era. Also, after review on the objectivity and accuracy of fitting information by real wear and virtual wear experiment on body types, not only 3D virtual clothing system was used as way of information provider of Clothing product, but also provided as basic data in order to use effectively on portion of clothing passion in responding to trend of Mass customization in advance. The consequence of the study is as followings. After analyzing significance differences per items on real and virtual wear evaluation, bowed type of type 1 had significance differences on waist measurement and hip circumference in back and side, which would be knowing as not integrated with costume, affecting form of human body according to virtual wear system bended on back region. Also, in side evaluation, every types except straight body type of type 3 appeared significant differences. In virtual wear evaluation, costume's expression with side body types were not similar to real wear until now except straight body types. It would be improvement things from 3D virtual wear system in advance.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.171-187
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• 2013

This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.180-201
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• 2009

I scrutinized the idea that Parhae Marek was inherited from Kokuryo which was presented in "The study on the Marek" published in the journal of the Korean Society of Costume 55-5, and concluded the following results: 1. The Marek which Samguk sagi recorded is the red head scarf used for dancers who do Koguryo dance in the Babarian Music System in Tang dynasty. Since its original record Tong dian tells that Kokuryo performers' costumes then had strikingly changed and Quichi and GaoChang dancers also wore Marek, so the idea that Marek was originated from Koguryo should be reconsidered. 2. Considering the Yaksoori mural's indistinguishable condition as well as the same scenes from other Kokuryo mural paintings, I can't evidently tell that the first person who carries shouldering drum puts Marek on. 3. should be pronounced [Mal] for the meaning of a head scarf and its definition can't be limited only for the sash type. 4. Diverse historical data on head scarves deny the assumption that the sash type of hairband would have been succeeded from Kokuryo to the Parhae Marek. 5. The Marek of Princess Junghyo's mural painting can be an example that shows the costume of Tang influenced Parhae's. But the similarity in styles of costume between contemporary countries doesn't mean their reciprocal racial or political identity.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.147-164
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• 2000

This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.732-740
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to discuss Joseon dynastyis first perspective on the Western-style Court Costume which was newly introduced to Joseon through the problems receiving the credential that Japan had sent in new style. For this study, the records of Joseon and Japan at that period have been analyzed. The followings are the results of this research; First, a critical argument on the Western-style Court Costume occurred just before the Port Opening because whether wearing a western costume was the key factor in Joseon dynastyis receiving the credential that Japan had send in new style. Second, Japan received western costume as its domestic courtesy system by establishing the Court Costume of Civil servants in 1872 and consequently Japan established new ceremony procedure of western-style bow in 1875. Third, Joseon dynasty officially opposed to the Western-style Court Costume when Japan sent the credential, because the western costume selected by Japan had beenregarded as that of western barbarian at that time in Joseon. Accordingly, it seems reasonable that before the introduction of western costume into Joseon dynasty, an open-door policy for the West had been a prior settlement for Joseon dynasty regardless of the details of Western-style Court Costume. And also, the pride of civilization of Joseon dynasty, which has been used to express Joseon dynastyis identity as Joseon-centrism, had to be converted before the open-door policy. Ultimately, it could be inferred that the reception of the Western-style Court Costume had been raised as the political and diplomatic problems in the circumstances when the submissive relationship in the traditional Eastern- Asia had been forced to be converted to modern sovereign international relationship.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.123-133
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• 1981

If we are to define that the traditional costume is a comprehensive expression of the culture, thoughts, and arts of a country, it is needless to say that the traditional costume would have always reflected the social and cultural aspects of the times. In order words, the cultural contemplation of a certain people at some point the history is only possible when we observe the distintive features of the costume worn by the people of respective times. Although the Korean people had the native costume of its own from the times of the Ancient Choson to the Three Kingdoms of Koguryo, Paekche, and Silla, the Chinese influence on Korean traditional costume became somewhat pronounced ever since the Silla strenghtened the political ties with the T'ang dynasty in China, and it came to a climax when the dual structure in Korean native costume, being compounded with the Chinese touch, continued to be prevailed from the era of the Unified Silla to the Koryo and throughout the succeeding Yi dynasty, thereby copying the typical aspects of Chinese pattern in clothing and dresses worn by the ruling classes, namely the goverment officials including the Kings. Therefore, it is our aim to study the pattern of Chinese influence on our traditional costume, as well as social and cultural aspects by way of contrasting and comparing our official outfit system, which had been developing in dualism since the era of the Unified Silla, with that of China, and to trace in part the Korean traditional costume. In comparing our traditional official outfit system with that of China, we have basically concentrated on the comparison of the official outfit systems during the periods of the Three Kingdoms, the Koryo, and The Yi dynasty with that of corresponding era of Chinese history, namely the dynasties of T'ang, Sung, and Ming, and followed the documentary records for the comparison. Koreans had fallen into the practice of worshipping the powerful in China and begun to adopt the culture and institutions of the T'ang dynasty since the founding of the Unified Silla. From this time forth, Korean people started to wear the clothes in Chinese style. The style of clothing during the period of the Koryo Kingdom was deeply influenced by that of the T'ang and Sung dynasties in China, and it was also under the influenced of the Yuan dynasty(dynasty established by the Mongols) at one time, because of the Koryo's subordinative position to the Yuan. At the close of the Koryo dynasty, the King Kongmin ordered the stoppage on the use of 'Ji-Joung', the name of an era for the Yuan dynasty, in May of the eighteenth year of his rule in order to have the royal authority recognized by a newly rising power dominating the Chinese continent, the Mind. Kind Kongmin presented a memorial, repaying a kindness to the Emperor T'aejo of the Ming dynasty in celebration of his enthronement and requested that the emperor choose an official outfit, thereby the Chinese influence being converted to that of the Ming. As a matter of course, the Chinese influence deepened all the more during the era of the Yi dynasty coupled with the forces of the toadyic ideology of worshipping the China, dominant current of the times, and the entire costume, from the imperial crown and robe to the official outfit system of government officials, such as official uniforms, ordinary clothes, sacrificial robes, and court dresses followed the Chinese style in their design. Koreans did not have the opportunity of developing the official outfit system on its own and they just wore the official outfit designated on separate occasions by the emperors of China, whenever the changes in dynasty occurred in the continent. Especially, the Chinese influence had greatly affected in leading our consciousness on the traditional costume to the consciousness of the class and authority. Judging from the results, Koreans had been attaching weight to the formulation of the traditional outfit system for the ruling classes in all respective times of the history and the formulation of the system was nothing more than the simple following of the Chinese system.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.77-91
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• 1994

The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking the characteristics and the conceptual meanings of colors found in the majority’s culture. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone, the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done. The result of this investigation is that the colors of the costume in the Korean basic culture are white, gray and black of achromatic color and yellow, yellowish red and purplish blue. This confirms that the colors based on Five-elements color are becoming the basis too basic culture. And Arche-pattern, which is a characteristic commonly found in the Korean traditional society, was shown as a characteristic of color. The colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture are uniquely adopted by the Korean civilians according to their religious and philosophical living standard. This study is meaningful in seeking a root for the formation of their unique color culture.