• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.69-78
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• 2006

In the early Joseon when royal authority was not still firmly established, King Taejong, or Lee Bang Won tried to make their political position guaranteed through relationships with Ming, making efforts to develop relations with the Chinese nation positively. This political orientation towards Ming by of the king Taejong was also clearly reflected in the settlement of official uniform in the early Joseon, which can be described as follows. Gaoming(誥命), Yinxin(印信) and Mianfu(冕服) granted by Ming for the first time since the foundation of Joseon suggested that the Chinese nation recognized the formal settlement of Joseon dynasty and the inauguration of King Taejong. presumedly, the grants played a critical role in the firm establishment by King Taejong of his royal authority under unstable political conditions. Under the reign of King Taejong, Joseon tried to abolish ancient regime and, instead, accept systems and institutions of Ming as it maintained smooth relations with the Chinese nation. King Taejong whose royal authority was locally deemed lack in legitimacy and morality wanted to receive the moral recognition of his reign. So the monarch tried to not only strengthen his authority, but also take in advanced culture and civilization through submissive diplomatic relations with Ming. This was a practical diplomatic strategy that was clearly discriminated from toadyism. It was a policy towards Ming, pursuing substantial national benefit. Therefore, official uniform system under the reign of King Taejong should be understood accordingly.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.15-28
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• 2011

This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.97-110
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• 1992

West African's traditional looms, weaving and raw materials, structural patterning, dyeing and basic forms of dress were examines in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of West Africa, and to make a contribution to the policy planning for export market developing The research method employed was the analysis f written materials. The study was limited to the traditional clothing habit which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) They have vertical single-heddle loom horizontal or ground single-heddle loom, and double-heddle loom. The width of the cloth produced on the single-heddle loom varies about 38.5cm to 123cm and double-heddle looms all produced on the single-heddle looms all produced narrow strips of cloth varying in width from about 1.3cm to 75cm, although the average is about 10-20cm. (2) Despite the relative simplicity of the llom technology a remarkable variety of textiles are produced. (3) The most popular decorative technique in West African compound weaves is extra-weft patterning which is produced on both single-heddle and double-heddle loom by men and women weavers. Other forms of secondary patterning on textiles in West Africa are dyeing, applique, patchwork and embroidery. (4) Two basic forms of dress have spread throughout West Africa, the poncho (bpibpi) and the wrapper. Some versions of these basic forms are supplemented by western inspired trousers, shirts and blouses coupled with accessories usually complete their traditional outfits. They have a great variety of basic poncho, like as Khasa, Gandura, Tuareg-poncho, Babariga, Rigas (agba-da), Grand-boubou, Afteck, Tagua, buba, Danshike etc. Although West Africa has long been in contact with the peoples of the Nile region as well as the Maghreb and Sahara, both the boubou styles and the wrapper styles appear to have developed with a minimum of outside influence. African Islam was the principal agent for the diffusion of the boubou styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.81-90
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• 2006

The objective of the study is to review trends of clothing export in important countries of the world and thus to know the present stage of clothing export in Korea. For the purpose, changes of export amount, competitiveness and product life cycle were analysed in the countries from the 1960's to the 1990's. The results are as following: First, on the aspect of export amount, industrialized countries lost the lead to newly industrializing countries from the 1960's. Developing countries, as China, win the lead. Second, on the competitiveness aspect, industrialized countries lost competitiveness to newly industrializing countries before the 1960's. And newly industrializing countries were outpaced by China in the export competitiveness from the early 1990's. Third, on the aspect of product life cycle, industrialized countries go first through each period of product life cycle, introduction, growth, maturity and decline, and they all, excluding Japan, sustained period of Maturity for a long time. newly industrializing countries and developing countries go orderly through each period of product life cycle after industrialized countries. As to Korea, duration of each period was short. Specially characteristics of decline period appeared partly in the early 1990's. From the results, the theory of product life cycle, helping to explain changes in production and trade in new product lines, estimated to applicable to clothing export. The phenomena, Italy, Hong Kong and America sustain high competitiveness in the world clothing market for a long time, is needed to be studied carefully. The study about strong points in their clothing industries and competitiveness drive program be to influence Korean export policy in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.191-209
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• 1998

The present study was made to contribute to thed improvement of the quality of jeans wear advertising, and to the establishment of more effective advertising policy by which the jeans wear advertisements can go well with the unique charateristics of jeans wear. The study analyzed the consumer's attitude and dimention of affective responses toward jeans wear advertisements by type of appeal. The research was implemented through the survery with a representative sample of 344 consumers residing in Seoul. Means, Standard Deviation, ANOVA, Duncan Test, Facor Analysis and Regression were imployed to analyze the data gathered. The results of the study are as follows : (1) There are four dimentions of affective responses toward jeans wear advertisements ; upbeat-activation dimention, erotic-activation dimention, calm-emotional dimention, negative emotional demention. (2) According to consumer's sex, there are significant differences in each dimention of their affective responses. Toward sex-appeal advertisements, men show high degree of affective responses in upbeat-activation dimen-sion and calm-emotional dimension. (3) There is a probability that non-sex-appeal advertisement covers wider range of consumer than sex-appeal advertisements. (4) There is no significant different in affective responses towards both sex-appeal and non-sex-appeal advertisement of jeans wear between and among sex·age and involvement level of consumer. (5) Men prefer sex-appeal advertisement to non-sex-appeal advertisement, while there is no significant differences between the attitude of female consumers toward sex-appeal adver-tisement and non-sex-appeal advertisement. (6) In particular, age of 15∼18 and 30∼35 group of female consumer show very positive attitude toward sex-appeal advertisement. Therefore, there is a need to segment female jeans wear market by age groups. (7) According to the age and the involvement level of consumers, there is a significant differences in their attitudes toward advertise-ment. In case of male consumers, group of low level involvement prefer sex-appeal advertise-ment to non-sex-appeal advertisement. While high level involvement group did not show any significant differences between the attitude toward sex-appeal advertisement and the attitude toward non-sex-appeal advertisement. And the age of 15∼24, low level involvement group of female consumers also more positive attitude toward sex-appeal advertisement than toward non-sex-appeal advertisements.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.433-440
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• 2020

Afrofuturism was born under the combination of the elements of African culture, sci-fi novels, history, afrocentrism and Magic Realism. The aim of this study is to sort out the concepts and characteristics of Afrofuturism basing on the artistic elements appearing in Black Panther. The method is to investigate the academic papers, periodicals, singles and the Internet research related to African culture, Afrofuturism and American superheroes first. And then make the analyzation of the design of uniforms of the major characters in the movie as cases. The result is : First, the resistance of art for social minorities, second, the establishment of identity of black art through the reactionary effect of culture, and third, the artistic healing through SF fantasy.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to identify dimensions of shopping orientation and preferences of fashion trade areas, to test differences in the preference factors and usage levels of fashion trade areas as determined by shopping orientation and demographic characteristics. Questionnaires were administered to 406 adults in their twenties and thirties visited major fashion trade area in Seoul. The results of the study were as follows. First, five groups were identified based on shopping orientation: combined value-oriented group, convenience-oriented group, hedonic value trend-oriented group, economic-value oriented group and brand-oriented group. Second, the most frequently visited trade area was Myungdong, and there were significant differences in the usage levels of the trade areas except Dongdaemun, Samsung station COEX, Jamsil and Gangnam Express Bus Terminal among the groups determined by shopping orientation. Sinsa Garosoogil, Apgujeong Chungdam and Samsung Station COEX were preferred by hedonic value trend-oriented group. Daehakro and Myungdong were preferred by combined value-oriented group and convenience-oriented group. Third, significant differences were also found in all groups in the preference factors of the trade area as determined by shopping orientation groups when purchasing clothing. Forth, female preferred Gangnam Express Bus Station and Jamsil than male did. Those who in their early twenties preferred Daehakro and Myungdong the most and those who in early thirties and late twenties concerned service policy the most. The results imply that the consumers tend to visit the nearest fashion trade area by their residence(or work, school) and consider the location and accessibility of the trade area as the most important factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2012

In 2009, two national universities were integrated into one and the following was newly named Gangneung- Wonju National University. Therefore, this university requires consolidation and promotion of UI(University Identity) as a college brand in order to secure and enhance its competitiveness. The purpose of this study was to design and develop campus-wear, ultimately, it can be used as a part of the Gangeung-Wonju University's UIP policy. A qualitative approach of searching==incorporating books, dissertations, and web-based information==was taken to investigate theoretical backgrounds. The campus-wears were collected from the selected universities in Korea and abroad for the distinct design development. The result of the research are as follows. The concept for the design planning was "wit, exciting & challenge for campus life". The developed UI had focused on expressing positive images of the University. Six items were chosen for the campus-wear design. The goal was to demonstrate practicality and fashion trend. The color arrangement primarily focused on the University's official color and pursued a bright, breeze look. The detailed techniques used for the actual production were printing, embroidery, and accessories. The UI products may not only instill the members of the university with the spirit and pride by strengthening the sense of belonging, but also create a synergistic effect in education by boosting the university promotion and by newly establishing standing as the integrated university.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.679-693
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• 2021

The aim of this study was first to expand participation types in the field of beauty design by examining activities in the field, and second, to seek practical methods for addressing the important issue of social responsibility amid the current pandemic situation. Accordingly, social responsibility in design was examined through a review of previous studies. The features of practice domains and design performance fields were examined comparatively. As a result, it was found that social practices take place in various sectors, with sensibility toward the environment being escalated to a new level in the cosmetics industry. In terms of cosmetics enterprise practices, collecting, recycling, manufacturing, and retail networking has been established to reuse up to 95% of waste resources. Furthermore, ethical responsibility and participation concerning product and service waste resources are recommended, resulting in the supply of eco-friendly products in a virtuous cycle. In terms of systematic policy, even component transformation (such as organic certification and excluding toxic substances) is being carried out. However, it was difficult to identify such responsible activities in Korea; thus, systematic practice is needed. Designers take part in talent donation activities, and it was the sector they prefer the most. However, it is necessary to conduct studies on limitations such as venues equipped with cosmetics procedure equipment and public cosmetics sanitation and make systematic improvement, such that activities can be led with initiative from passive participation.