• Title/Summary/Keyword: Costume Plays

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A Study on Bag in the Western - From the Middle Ages to Modern Times - (서양 Bag에 관한 연구 - 중세~근대를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Eui-Jung;Kang, Kyung-Ae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.27-41
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    • 2009
  • As for modern people, the fashion accessory plays a role in allowing the whole coordination in clothing to be highlighted, receives environmental factors in the complementary relationship with clothing, and is being progressed rapidly as well. Among accessories, it is considered to be probably significant to examine especially about the historical consideration and the transitional process in bag, which becomes a means of expressing free individuality in fashion while recognizing importance of bag, which is being developed today as a necessary article along with diverse lifestyles in each individual. Accordingly, the purpose of this study was to examine which correlation a bag comes to have with clothing according to a historical change in fashion and was changed in the transitional process of historical consideration on bag from the latter half of the medieval times to the modern times. Also, it tries to analyze on features in a form, material, kind, and color by period in a bag. Thus, the aim is to be conducive to a future qualitative research on bag Through the research process, it could be known about which a bag has been changed into diverse forms while experiencing several processes in order to conform with a flow of clothing, which is required by society according to a change in period, and about its historical significance, value, and aesthetic characteristics. It was certainly necessary for walking about with putting commodity necessary for people in it. As one of accessories that cannot be separated from clothing, it makes it available for knowing user's social standing and position and living scale, and makes it realized for the importance influence upon establishing a woman's identity.

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The Analysis of Fashion Item Trend Expressed in Fashion Magazine Advertising (패션잡지광고에 표현된 패션 아이템 경향 분석)

  • Lee, Eun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.123-140
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    • 2007
  • Fashion magazine advertising is the most excellent source of information in predicting the fashion trend. It plays a pivotal role in setting a direction for the fashion trend in the upcoming season. The purpose of this study was to review by photos of the $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$ collection shown in LONDON, NEW YORK, MILAN, and PARIS during 2002-2006 A/W and 2003-2005 S/S seasons, being focused on such fashion items published as coat, dress, one-piece, two-pieces(jacket+skirt/pants, blouse+skirt/pants). In the results of this study, designers presented coat(n=144) chiefly, blouse+pants(n=29) were presented few during 2002-2003 A/W seasons. During 2003-2004 A/W seasons one-piece(n=156) was looking bullish, blouse+pants(n=34) were declining. Dress(n=149) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=17) was presented few during 2004-2005 A/W seasons. During 2005-2006 A/W seasons coat(n=180) was revived, blouse+pants(n=26) were presented lowly. Therefore designers presented coat(n=605, 28.4%) extremely much during 2002-2006 A/W seasons. Designers presented one-piece(n=109) much, jacket+pants(n=22) were presented few in 2003 S/S. In 2004 S/S seasons one-piece(n=167) was presented vastly different than jacket+pants(n=42). Also one-piece(n=152) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=48) was presented few in 2005 S/S seasons. During 2003-2005 S/S seasons one-piece(n=428, 28.2%) was presented most. And designers in these four world fashion centers didn't prefer blouse+pants in A/W seasons and jacket+pants in S/S seasons. Based on the above findings, it could be confirmed that the fashion items trend was almost similar among the four collections of $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$. The results of this study suggest that the fashion collections are the most reliable information sources for fashion product planning. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will provide for some useful basic data for domestic fashion businesses in producing fashion items.

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Empirical study on the influence of emotional leadership on business performance in the fashion industry - Focused on the moderating effects of organizational culture - (패션기업 CEO의 감성적 리더십이 기업성과에 미치는 영향 - 조직문화의 조절효과 연구 -)

  • Kim, Sook-Hee;Yang, Dong-Woo
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.1004-1020
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to assess whether the emotional leadership of the CEO of a fashion company has a significant influence on corporate performance. In this study, a survey was conducten on employees of fashion companies from August 1 to 30, 2015, and 350 copies of questionnaires were collected and used for analysis. Factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression analysis were employed to analyze the data using SPSS software (ver. 21.0). According to the study results, if a fashion company CEO has higher emotional leadership, it leads to an increase in the job satisfaction and performance of the staff members, and an improvement in new product performance thanks to more investment and development and an expanded R&D staff. Additionally, the higher emotional leadership of the CEO contributes to an increase in operating profits, sales, and market share. Therefore, the importance of organizational culture was confirmed by its regulation effect on the emotional leadership and management performance of a fashion company. According to the results of this study, the emotional leadership of a CEO plays an important role in improving the performance of a fashion company, and future studies are needed to identify how to enhance the corporate performance of a fashion company from various perspectives.

Make-up Design that Incorporates the Features of Traditional Korean Masks - Focusing on the Road Performance 'Day like Today' - (한국 전통 탈의 조형성을 활용한 분장 디자인 - 거리 공연 '오늘 같은 날'을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Joung-Min
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.4
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    • pp.98-110
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    • 2009
  • Performance art is an integrated genre of different art areas, and make-up is a visual art area to give lively effects to the performance art, which makes actors and actresses changed into the characters of plays. It can be said to be a kind of deliverer of idea to help effectively understand the contents of the performance. When we are in the world abundant in various cultures and innumerable styles of expression of different countries, we should rediscover the value of the beauty of our traditional masks that have represented the emotion and thought of Han nation, which we can find in play culture of our ancestors that has kept our ancestors' value system. That's the way we can get continuous life force and competitive power of our traditional culture. The Korean traditional masks haven't only been for the prevention of bad luck and the prayer of fortune, but also well expressed Korean people's looks, features and personalities according to the roles. They are excellent artistic works in themselves, and many studies have been performed on the analyses and uses of the features of the masks in various fields due to their good expression of different cultural aspects, while the studies in the light of make-up are rarely performed. Therefore, this article aims to analyze the features of the Korean traditional masks and, by using this analysis, to present effective make-up designs in outdoor performances through a stage performance. In addition, this article also tries to present the orientation of make-up as an expression of artistic image, and to expand the expression area of make-up by using the Korean traditional masks in the light of make-up. For this purpose, I examined the related literature and the precedent study materials to find the origin and kinds of the Korean traditional masks, and analyzed the features of the masks. Furthermore, I established the make-up design plan using the material features of the Korean traditional masks by analyzing the characters in actual performance works, and presented the photos of works actually performed.

A Study on the Man Disguise's Clothes in the Female Kukkuk and Takarazuka Revue (여성 국극(女性國劇)과 다카라즈카 가극의 남장(男裝) 의상에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hee-Jung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.15 no.3 s.68
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    • pp.510-524
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    • 2007
  • There is something common between the Korean female Kukkuk and the Japanese Takarazuka Revue in that actors are all females and love is the main theme. Some of the females should play men's roles, so they are described as ideal men and are more manly than real men, and female audiences are attracted by them. It is hard for actresses to play men's roles-they have to stretch open their shoulders, walk with long steps and produce a deep voice. They put on a makeup a little exaggeratedly to perfectly disguise themselves as men and express strong images-some red tone makeup on their face, thick eyebrows with their ends upward, thick eye lines to make eyes seem bigger and stronger, and thick side whiskers. On the contrary, a makeup for female characters is softer to highlight femininity with thin penciled hair parted and braided on the sides of the face. The Takarazuka Revue's students are divided into male characters and female ones from the regular course of music schools, and they select their roles in consideration of their height and range of voice, mainly based on their wish. In case of male characters, they need a long career and verification of ability to be the best. Females playing men's roles and showing their manliness are violation of a social custom standardizing the character of males and females and are the reverse of roles expected by a society or a culture. A world experienced by these plays is a kind of revolt breaking the taboo of the patriarchal system.

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A Study of Clothing Imagery Emerging from Shakespeare's Plays II -Focusing on MAcbeth, 1996 RSC production- (Shakespeare 희곡작품에 나타난 복식 이미저리 연구 II -1996년 RSC 공연의 Macbeth를 중심으로-)

  • Bae, Soo-Jeoung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.33
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    • pp.143-156
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    • 1997
  • 와관과 실체의 갈등은 문학작품의 주제 중에서 가장 보편적이면서도 복잡한 양상을 지니고 있다 희곡 Macbeth에 있어서 이주제는 Shakespeare의 어느 작품에서보다도 핵심적인 역할을 하며 특히 외관과 실체의 주제를 시각적으로 보여주는 복식이미저리는 그의 주제를 상징적으로 나타내는 데 효과적일 뿐만 아니라 극적 분위기 창조 및 무대사에서배우들의 의상변화로 인한 시각적이미저리 효과를 극대화 시키고 있다 본 연구의 목적은 Macbeth에 내재된 복식 이미저리를 고찰하고 이를 가장 최근에 공연된 macbeth의 무대의상에 적용 분석함으로써 무대의상 제작시 복식 이미저리의 효과적인 무대적용 여부를 파악하는 것이다.연구의 방법은 먼저 이론적인 배경으로 희곡 Macbeth의 본문을 분석하여 복식이미지저리와 관계된느 대사 및 지문 등을 추출한 다음이를 하나의 케이스 연구대상으로 선정된 1996 RSC극단 공연의 Macbeth 무대의상에 적용하여 분석 고찰 하였다 본 연구에서 얻어진 결론은 다음과 같다 첫째 자신의 실체를 파악하지 못한 인물이나 혼동하는 인물은 자신의 신분에 맞지 않은 남의 의상을 적응기간조차 없이 착용함으로써 결국은 자신을 파멸로 몰고가는 복식 이미저리가 제시되어 있었다 둘째 자신의 실체를 분명히 지각하고 있는 인물들은 새로운 복식이나 신분에의 적응은 많은 시간과 노력을 요한다는 것을 매우 잘 파악하고 있었으며 이것은 그들의 대사 중에 구체적으로 제시되어있었다 1막1장의 Banquo 의 대사 중에 나오는'새로운복식'과 '새로운 신분'에 비유 2막 4장의 macduff의 대사중에 나오는 '새로브'와 '헌로브'의 비유 5막 2장의 Caithness의 '자제력의혁대'등의 비유는 복식이미저리의 구체적인 표현으로 분석되었다. 셋째 복식 이미저리의 측면에 1996 RSC의 Macbeth 무대의상을 분한 결과 이의상들에는 '난쟁이가 훔쳐 입은 거인의 옷' 으로 대표되는 복식 이미저리가 직접적으로 제시되지는 않았지만 공연전체를 통하여 무대장치 및 의상에 변화를 주지 않음으로써 이 작품의 초시한성과 복식이미저리를 오히려 역설적으로 표현하고 있는 것으로 파악되었다. 따라서 이공연의 의상 계획은 복식 이미저리의 역설적인 한 표현으로 분석되었으며 관객에게 등장인물의 외곤은 그 실체를 그대로 반영한다는 Shakespeare 본래의 의도를 잘 보여주는 의상계획으로 파악되었다 이러한 결과는 Shakespeare극의 무대의상 디자인 및 제작시 무대의상이 단순한 무대의상 그 이상의 의미로 고려되어져야 함을 보여주며 이는 관객에세 의미 깊은 메시지로 전달될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

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The Characteristics of the Popular Culture Contemporary Fashion Shows -Focus on Pret-a-Porter collections after the mid of 1990s- (현대패션쇼의 대중문화적 특성(제1보) -1990년대 중반이후 기성복컬렉션을 중심으로-)

  • 장안화;박민여
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.4
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 2004
  • This study suggests the popular culture theory as a basic framework to find out the characteristics of contemporary fashion show meeting the popular culture, and describes that the show is the popular culture of this generation. The culture is the way of our life unifying the world at common area of human being. The popular culture is to subdivide it into the public culture that shares aesthetic taste, and to borrow each other and develop it mutually because of the collapse of dichotomous boundary with high quality culture, and to represent the people’s thought and behaviour expanding their areas. The author has examined the characteristics of popular culture of modern fashion show by four collections, that is, commercialism, mass media, political relationship and interaction, etc: Firstly, at the commercialism, the fashion show combines it with other genre organically to do mass production and sales and produces cultural consumption goods supplying a lot of sight-seeing. Secondly, at the mass media, the image of contemporary fashion show has been spread out with mass media such as fashion magazines, cable TV and Internet beyond time and space to produce advertisement effects and makes new fashion and bring democratic culture. Thirdly, at political relationship, the fashion in its peak can make a big stream of wealth, so that it plays important roles under governmental regulations in this era and governments make efforts to support and develop it. Lastly, at interaction, the fashion show shares media functions to let users participate in the program and to exchange information as a feedback to influence each other.

The Life Satisfaction, Appearance Satisfaction, Clothing Satisfaction, and Clothing Design Preferance of Women Aged 55years and Older in Seoul (노년기 여성의 생활만족도 및 외모만족도에 따른 의복만족도와 의복디자인 선호도에 대한 연구 -서울시내 거준 노년기 여성을 중심으로-)

  • 김진구;서미아;이유경;이선희
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.57-74
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    • 1996
  • The elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing due to advances in public health, medical care, and quality of life. Social and economic influence of the elderly population has been also increasing. A elderly people become more interested in their appearance and clothing than before, clothing plays an important role in the elderly women's everyday life. The objectives of the research are to explore the life satisfaction, appearance satisfaction, clothing satisfaction, and clothing design preference of 416 women aged 55 years and older were residents of Seoul. Data were gathered through survey using a self-administered questionnaire from November, 1994 to January, 1995 in 8 senior schools and 3 senior centers which were scattered in Seoul. Descriptive statistics, t-test, and factor analysis were used in analysing the data. The results of this study indicated that life satisfaction have a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The respondents were divided into tow groups by life satisfaction. The higher life satisfaction group preferred skits and formal wear to the lower. But, two groups did not show any significant differences in terms of the colo preference, motif preference, and fabric preference. The result of factor analysis divided appearance satisfaction into body satisfaction and face satisfaction. Body satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. And the group of lower physical satisfaction showed lower satisfaction in apparel fitness. Also the face satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The group of higher physical satisfaction preferred skirts and foraaml wear compared to that of lower physical satisfaction. The color preference and motif preference between two groups showed no significant difference. And the group of higher physical satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. Also, the group of higher ace satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. However, there was no significant difference in the color preference and motif preference between tow groups. The findings of this study amy contribute to knowledge about clothing satisfaction and preference of elderly women in Seoul since there have been few studies, and be useful to apparel manufacturers as well s clothing researchers. Also, research subjects of this study could be extended to aged men and various regions.

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Asian.African.Latin American Cultural Hybrids in Modern Fashion (1) (현대패션에 나타난 아시아.아프리카.라틴 아메리카 문화 하이브리드 (제1보))

  • Choi, Ho-Jeong;Ha, Ji-Soo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.167-180
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    • 2007
  • This study analyzes the Asian, African and Latin American cultural hybrids in modem fashion, and offers a direction for desirable cultural hybrids in modem fashion. First, the cultural hybrids have been considered in two aspect: global hybrids and structural hybrids. Second, the trends of Asian, African and Latin American cultural hybrids have been interpreted differently depending on the cultural backgrounds of each area. However, the cultural hybrid representing the change of tradition in Asia, Africa and Latin America is a common trend, and is used to describe the social changes. Third, this study examines the global hybrid trend in modem fashion based on the hybrid trend of Asian, African and Latin American culture found in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W. Until recently, the exotic images have been determined in the viewpoint of Western world, and utilization by the world-renowned designers in the four major collections plays the major role in converting the regional cultural elements into global ones. Fourth, this study also examines the structural hybrids in modem fashion based on the hybrid trend found in Asian, African and Latin American designer collections between 2000 S/S and 2005 F/W. The works which are connected to the world trend, but are also rooted from the cultural and regional traditions demonstrate the globalization of the Asian, African and Latin American fashion. Fashion is a messenger of a culture, and its importance as a symbol of a cultural trend is growing.

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A study on Korean ancient conical hat(Kotgal) and the paper-folding (한국 고대 고깔과 종이접기)

  • Chae, Keum-Seok;Kim, So-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2018
  • This study focuses on the correlation between Kotgal and paper-folding. This paper first examines the meaning and history of Korean ancient Kotgal and then investigates relationship between Kotgal and Korean paper-folding culture which has been inherited in various ways. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, it has been told that Kotgal was used a as a trident hat symbolizing the sky, land, and man, whereas Korean paper-folding is known as closely related to the folk beliefs which had existed since ancient times. From ancient times, the Korean ancestors expressed the Three Gods representing beauties of the nature, 'sky(Chun), land(Ji) and man(In)' on the conical hat and prayed for their wish to the heaven. Second, Kotgal has been evolved in various ways from ancient times through Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty to present. The form of Kotgal has begun with folding and this is closely related to the origin of Korean paper-folding, which is the Korean traditional craft. Third, the paper-folding tradition of Korea has been variously applied in the Korean culture such as rituals, life crafts and plays and expresses the unconventional philosophical concepts unique of Korea. In conclusion, this study evidently shows that the Korean philosophical ideas behind Kotgal which originated from ancient paper-folding are scientific and systematic.