• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.53-67
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• 2019

This study investigated the effects of costume styling, color and texture on character expression in the movies "All About My Wife" and "Marriage Blue". As a study method, the main scenes were captured from the DVD image and the costumes of the main characters were analyzed to examine how the costumes express the personality change according to the story development of the characters. The characters in "All About My Wife" and "Marriage Blue" were studied to see how their personality changes as the story develops and how the costume supports the personality change of those characters. It was checked that costume contributes to effectively deliver the emotion of the characters to audience. In the movies, costume plays an important role in completing the character, and styling, color, and texture of the costume are one of the important means of expression. In a movie, costumes, styling, color, and texture contribute towards development of each character's character. And these elements act synergistically by acting simultaneously rather than independently, thus defining the image of the costume and playing a role in building characters. Movie directors persuade the audience by expressing their intentions in various ways. Among them, movie costume is one of the most effective expression tools. The styling, color, and texture of the clothes are practical and effective methodology that will create a character, so I hope that the field of film art will be researched extensively in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.31-44
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to identify the characteristics of stage costumes of a children's play and to creatively design them for the play, 'The Nutcracker', in an attempt to expand the means of expressing designs for stage costumes for children's plays. The Nutcracker, a play written by the German author, E. T. A. Hoffman in 1816, is better known today through its ballet adaptation by Tchaikovsky, and various versions have been presented by ballet companies and drama producers. The characteristics of the stage costume in a children's play are visual artistry, decoration, activity, and visual attention. The costume shows visual artistry because stage costumes with high artistry can increase the elements of fantasy and visual satisfaction in a play for children. The various decorative elements in stage costumes can help capture the attention of children and enhance their interest in the play. As dynamic movement and lines are often used to prevent children from becoming bored, activity must be taken into account when designing stage costumes. Visual attention is required to help children become better immersed in a play, and color selections for the stage costumes need to be emphasized. Thirteen characters were selected to develop a total of 13 pieces of stage costume in a standard size for a 9-year-old child. The design was focused on enhancing the fantastic elements and the entertainment value, and diversified surface decoration techniques were applied to the costume to draw the attention of children and express the formative beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.71-80
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• 2012

The Kut is the core of the traditional folk religion. The afterlife wedding Kut actually performs a traditional wedding ceremony by personifying the deceased in the process of performing the composition of Kut geori that cannot be observed from other Kuts, which is an important means to convey the situation of Kut more clearly. A traditional wedding ceremony performed in the Kut enables the audience to understand the meaning behind the Kut. The costume worn in the traditional wedding ceremony of the afterlife wedding Kut makes the audience understand the existence of the deceased by the use of a scarecrow dialect and makes them feel a vivid sense of the scene emitting from the Kut, which performs a traditional wedding ceremony in the composition of Kut geori. The results of this study showed that a shaman who led the afterlife wedding Kut had a scarecrow that symbolized the bride and a bridegroom wear the traditional wedding costume in order to visualize the deceased and express the symbol of a wedding which could not be made in this world. It can be interpreted that the traditional costume derived from the afterlife wedding Kut plays a symbolic role, which converts the deceased into a living person through the formal aspect of ceremonial costume and the cultural aspect of wedding ceremony.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The Assyrians usually wore two types - the tunic and the shawl. These two types were worn alone, or in combination and changes were introduced by varying the proportions of the tunic or shawl. The tunic appeared to be of the sleeves are short and reaching to the ankles or shortened to knee length according to the rank. Assyrian shawl pattern can be divided into five distinct styless. Many of the styles were suitable for costumes to wear in religious plays and pageants. Fringed shawls were the trademark of forma1 Assyrian costume. The usual badge of rank was a long fringed shawl. Intermediate rank wore shawl with short fringes and lower grade wore no shawl at all. The military costume was comparative uniformity : conical helmets was regarded as Scythic in character, short, fringed tunics, wide belts or helmet, round caps and long tunics covered in metal scales, belted at the waist. Assyrian woman costume was the long tunic with fringed hem and a long fringed shawl or was a plaid tunic and wide belt over it. They wore gold crown and horned Cap and tiara, ugal (head-dress) and the most ordinary earrings were the drop and the cross shape and necklace was made of the coloured stones and bracelets ended with heads of animal was regarded as Scythy style or adorned with a rosette at the centre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.55-70
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• 2012

In 16th century, during renaissance time, Britain's queen Elizabeth I, as a means to express her authority, had an exaggerated clothing styles and was the fashion leader of the time. Thus, through a media of Cinema, tried to find out the characteristics and different aspects of the history of clothing styles, of how they changed, ascertained, restored, and reappeared in the modern time. The research was based on the consideration of Elizabeth I's 33 portraits and her clothing styles; and the research is also from analysing the movies from 1937 to 2007, a total of 9 Cinema and 102 clothes. Movie costumes' most important mission is representing the cinema's timely and spatial background. Thus, it is inevitable that ascertaining and restoring Elizabeth I's portrait should be done. However, the movie costume has to show her dramatic lifestyle, dignity, absolute authority, and other visual images. In addition, the costume has to contribute in making artistic effect and thus the creativity of a designer to satisfy all these needs should be added. Based on the findings from the research, the characteristics of Elizabeth I's Cinema costume are first, ascertaining and restoring portraits, second, mixture of silhouette and detail depending on time period, third, partial change on clothing style design, fourth, emphasis of ruff collar, fifth, magnification colors, sixth, avoiding excessive swelling and decoration, and applying modern style on Protective costume. Thus, based on the research, creative design in Cinema clothing, plays an important part in the history of clothing design. I hope this research could work as a foundation reference for clothing design's history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.130-146
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• 2017

This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.22
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• pp.223-277
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• 2011

Tan Yuanjie(譚元杰) of CHINA COSTUME ART OF PEKING OPERA("中國京劇服裝圖譜") is 'Foreword' attention from the bar 'Formalism'. A note is makeup system from ever performances here, 'what kind of adaptation must be a corresponding type of costume should be worn.' This stance to 'type of person's identity and faced the scene correlated' with the actual performance tradition plays out is going and, while here the rules to capture the opera's on the character of 'identity and the circumstances under clothing' is defined. This position discussed previously 'Formalism' in line with the will he perform, and looks to meet the elements of production. This basic stance is clean up, while 'Old Beijing Opera costumes costumes taxonomy largely' literary costume' and 'militant outfit' into two groups divided over throughout steamroll surgery, because surely need to have a more systematic classification. The classification system was established as 'Part 1. Mang, Part 2. Pi, Part 3. Xi, Part 4. Kao, Part 5. YI'. In addition to these classification systems, as well as the aforementioned 'object theory' Given the symbolic significance of the capacity to keep in mind is necessary. Costumes conduct, character, situation, atmosphere and so the transport of charged symbols here, a target symbol of the system is the projection of water. This costume is detrimental to the mall for the positionsay, but I kept in mind damwongeolyi internationalization of Chinese culture. when you see the view from the perspective of semiotic systems for the sign, that the theater is necessary to complement. In this paper, 'Yi(衣)' costume on the corresponding point of the target compared to the China Culture Department of Theatre and Folklore methodology ran off and sprinting was to lay the groundwork for research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2005

The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.31
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• pp.35-64
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• 2013

This thesis seeks to compare China's Jing-ju and Japan's Kabuki for their common aspects and differences and examine how they are performed on the stage. Jing-ju is often called as Beijing Opera to refer to a musical play completed during the mid-Ching era and developed around Beijing. Jing-ju is composite arts of music, dance and play which are remarkable in its strict patterns in move along with luxurious costume and heavy make-up. Kabuki which was developed during the Edo-period, is expressional arts also structured with music, dance and play coupled with extravagant costume as well as even more strictly controlled move and emphasis on the beauty of form. The two plays seem very similar to each other in their time setting to gain popularity or features of play. It may look obvious that Jing-ju which had developed earlier than Kabuki, affected the latter's formation. However, general social practices or cultural trends in China and Japan at the time of their development also influenced literature and arts thus affecting play contents and performance expressions. Although the two plays have similar stage structure, they developed in different ways with detailed differences and actors' performance on the stage, way of using a stage and other ways of directing play are largely distinctive from each other. If a play's primary goal is to gain recognition of audience and draw their positive response, the relationship between play and stage becomes essential. With this understanding, this thesis aims to identify where such similarities and differences between the two plays are from by comparing historical background, stage structural development and directing manner development at a basic level.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.75-84
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• 2004

Stage costumes perform not only the instrumental but also the expressive functions. The major goal of this study is to develop the functional and aesthetic costume designs for musical players considering the characteristics of instruments. players’ postures. The scope of this study is restricted to the musical costumes for female adult soloists playing the wind and string instruments. This study is composed of theory research, empiricalresearch and manufacturing a real costume. First, theory research contains theory of musical costumes and that of pure musical areas. Concept, characteristics and wearing effects are analysed in theory of musical costumes. Second, designs of instruments and playing postures are analysed in the theory of pure musical areas. Proper and improper designs are compared based on the survey asking the favorite designs of 56 wind and string players. Third, I manufacture a stage costume for a harpist. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, wind and string players think the functionality of costumes more importantly than the esthetic sense. And there are differences in design preferences for different playing postures. Second, string Players basically use arms, fingers and the upper body. Wind players use fingers more than string players and do abdominal breathing. Third, string players think the design of arms and sleeves because of frequent usage of bow and prefer the design without sleeves. On the contrary, wind players think the silhouette importantly because of standing playing posture. Fourth, players don't think that the accessory is not important and want it so long as it doesn't hinder playing. Fifth, shoes plays more important role than costume in case of playing posture with using pedals and moving legs frequently. Lastly, both wind and string players prefer the design with simplicity and comfort most.